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Post by miquel on Jan 6, 2017 0:12:43 GMT -8
Hello,
I have made a 8'' RMH two month ago. The bench have five 90º elbows, four horizontal and the fifth is vertical for the chimney, and is 9 meters long.
I have some issues.
I don't have a clean burn, I say this because I can see the smoke out the chimney almost all the time. I think my issue isn't achieving enough temperature in the burn chamber. Am I right?
I put a door/window at the bottom of the feed tube to watch fire and for cleaning the ashes. I think this is my bigger mistake, isn't it?
The burn chamber and the heat riser are isolated, but feed tube isn't.
The bench is dry. I have condensation problems, I read in one thread here that the solution is the insulation of the cleanouts. But it doesn't seem a good solution to me (at least visual, and practical do to the need to open the cleanout often). Is there something else to do in order to avoid condensations?
I have 2 meters chimney tube, not isolated (another mistake?) and then 3 more meters of masonry chimney.
The transition between the barrel and the exhaust pipe I think it isn't bigger enough after reading Peter in this thread (http://donkey32.proboards.com/thread/337/helpful-hint), I have the third configuration with 2'' gap. The top barrel is set eccentrically, leaving more gap on transition exhaust side.
I think I have a good draw but not sure. When I burn incense, smoke is being pulled out.
And last but not least all the upper bench there is wood plate all the upper surface I think the wood isolate bench not enabling to radiate warm to the room (Am I right?)
I made a Peter channel but without any improvement to my RMH almost one I could appreciate.
Thank you in advance for your time and the help you are gonna provide me.
P.D. Sorry for my improper English..
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Post by Dan (Upstate NY, USA) on Jan 6, 2017 5:49:14 GMT -8
No problem on the English,
Can you posts some photos of the stove? With the photos then maybe we can help.
I had problems with condensation until I insulated my clean-outs too.
But lack of insulation in the clean-outs will not make a dirty burn...
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morticcio
Full Member
"The problem with internet quotes is that you can't always depend on their accuracy" - Aristotle
Posts: 371
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Post by morticcio on Jan 6, 2017 7:51:44 GMT -8
First impressions would be that the chimney height is suffient but there are too many bends and the system cannot generate enough draught to get the stove up to temperature.
Does the stove make the characteristic rocket sound when it is lit and is there a good draught? What is the gap around the top/sides of the riser & barrel?
My 8" J-tube took a short time to warm up but there was enough draught to get the thing started. It only had 2 x 90° bends before the chimney.
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Post by miquel on Jan 6, 2017 9:16:41 GMT -8
I think I get the caracteristic sound.. but not sure, never have seen or heard one rocket stove before.
The bricks are old bricks not refractary bricks.
I can't post any photos when I try I get this message:
"Unable to upload file image.jpeg.
Error: This forum has exceeded its attachment space limit. Your file cannot be uploaded. "
Is there any other way to post images?
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Post by miquel on Jan 6, 2017 9:27:01 GMT -8
The gap between the sides of riser and barrel is 2'', not equal in everywhere (if in one side there is 1'' in the oposite will be 3''). The barrel is put excentrical. And the gap in the top is 3''.
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Post by peterberg on Jan 6, 2017 10:20:30 GMT -8
Four horizontal elbows and 9 meters long is too much, I would say, So your bench could be too long.
I am very suspicious about a door at the bottom of the feed. Most of the time those aren't airtight and above that, it is too often a dead end where a vacuum is created during the burn. This will act as a brake on the whole of it.
Lower half of the feed should be insulated, so the door is an anomaly again in that respect.
The manifold should be correct I'd think.
When there are no gaps between the wood plates the heat is trapped inside, although this isn't the reason why the thing isn't running properly.
You don't mention the chimney temperature, what is that and the top of the barrel?
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Post by drooster on Jan 6, 2017 10:57:53 GMT -8
The burn chamber and the heat riser are isolated, but feed tube isn't. Well, that is good. I assume this is a J-tube RMH. 8" is big and should have enough power, but nine metres horizontal bench is VERY LONG! What is your burn tube and riser made of and insulated with? Wood is an insulator. |
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Post by drooster on Jan 6, 2017 10:59:30 GMT -8
The bricks are old bricks not refractary bricks. Error: This forum has exceeded its attachment space limit. Your file cannot be uploaded. " Is there any other way to post images? Hold on. Is the burn chamber and riser just made of old bricks? Upload images to an image hosting site and then link the images here. |
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Post by miquel on Jan 6, 2017 15:06:02 GMT -8
I don't know the temperature on top of the barrel and chimney. I don't have a thermometer.. But I can boil o almost boil water in the top of the barrel. The chimney I can touch with my hands without burning but is realy hot. The insulation is done with perlite. I put some photos in this link: goo.gl/photos/AZ4iWzNDyUhde4647 |
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Post by drooster on Jan 6, 2017 15:57:30 GMT -8
That's a big beast.  But how do the hot gasses escape out the top of the riser without any space under the top of the barrel?  |
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Post by satamax on Jan 6, 2017 21:56:27 GMT -8
Miquel, for testing purposes. Could you link the two cleanouts visible on this picture? next to the chimney.  |
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Post by miquel on Jan 6, 2017 23:36:42 GMT -8
The photo with the barrel unpainted is the internal barrel, which is holding the insulation. On top is the black barrel with the gaps mention before. Another mistake I have done is doing flat the top of the heat raiser. Right now is full of ashes and the rocket is not working, not good draw at all. I have to detach the barrel clean out the ashes and make some bell shape in order the ashes don't accumulate on top.
I am thinking on redoing all the rocket stove. I was hoping with your feedbacks take a desicion. And make the changes necessary in order to have a good RMH.
Inside the tubes there is cerosote, now more than ever do to the bad burning with the upper heat riser obstruction.
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Post by Vortex on Jan 7, 2017 5:29:26 GMT -8
Looks to me like there's just too much cold mass around it, sucking all the heat away. Is the firebox and riser well insulated from the concrete floor?
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Post by drooster on Jan 7, 2017 11:15:53 GMT -8
I don't see how that massive brick riser can get hot enough for complete combustion,
and if the silver barrel is the outside skin of the insulated riser that is the biggest riser I have ever seen!
If the brick riser was replaced with ceramic tube and ceramic blanket insulation the thing would probably work great.
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Post by satamax on Jan 7, 2017 11:58:19 GMT -8
I don't see how that massive brick riser can get hot enough for complete combustion, and if the silver barrel is the outside skin of the insulated riser that is the biggest riser I have ever seen! If the brick riser was replaced with ceramic tube and ceramic blanket insulation the thing would probably work great. I would say, bricks on edge is not that bad. What i would be concerned about first, is the flue transition. As, if the barrel is not off center, it might well be too small. Make the heat riser one course of bricks shorter and transform it into a "trumpet bell" with clay/perlite or something like this. Would be a clever idea. (better than a dome, as the rim's circumference is greater. hence better flow) Miquel, how long has your mass been drying? |
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