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Post by johndepew on May 21, 2015 8:25:10 GMT -8
adiel opened the stove and report that some of the brown clay-perlite mortar turn to the regular red clay like usual but part of it turn to white glaze thing that he didn't saw before. like porcelain. This is very interesting. Anybody have any ideas what could cause this? Do you think you melted the perlite in the mixture? Would that form a sort of white glaze on the outside of the mortar? Google says perlite melts at 1390 C.
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morticcio
Full Member
"The problem with internet quotes is that you can't always depend on their accuracy" - Aristotle
Posts: 371
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Post by morticcio on May 25, 2015 1:06:09 GMT -8
Shilo/Adiel, I'm sure you'd have done it if you had one...but do you have a thermometer probe (or probes) you can stick in the riser to take some temperature readings?
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Post by shilo on May 25, 2015 8:59:36 GMT -8
unfortunately, we have only the laser type
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Post by shilo on May 25, 2015 9:14:17 GMT -8
anybody have any idea how to make a super-high-heat bypass? to bypass the downdraft.
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Post by DCish on May 25, 2015 10:07:05 GMT -8
I've seen pictures of a metal rod cast into a piece of castable refractory, and the refractory slides back and forth covering and uncovering a bypass slot.
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Post by patamos on May 27, 2015 21:05:53 GMT -8
I have used thin (60 gauge) metal furnace 'T' ducting as a permanent sacrificial mold surrounded by thermal cob (2 parts sand, 1 part clay and a bit of horse manure). Inside the ducting i place a standard 6" cast iron chimney damper. About 15 to 20mm away from the metal i have laid in strips of fiberglass mesh to help hold things together. Whether the mesh is necessary, or actually a drawback i cannot yet say. BUt in the 2 years that i have been doing it - at first around door openings of cob ovens, then as bypass for double flue designs... it is holding up fine.
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