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Post by woodrascal on Nov 7, 2013 12:54:04 GMT -8
I've been using 25mm Vermiculite board for the square heat riser in my woodfired range cooker conversion. Due to space and access limitations I had to use fire cement to hold the boards together (no screw fixing). I've tried using these vermiculite boards (from various suppliers here in the UK) and have found that the boards always warp in service, pulling apart the cement joints - what am I doing wrong? Having had to rebuild three risers due to this issue, my latest riser has been constructed with dense firebrick and is performing well.
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Post by satamax on Nov 7, 2013 13:36:58 GMT -8
Woodrascal, what do you mean by "Due to space and access limitations " ?
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Post by woodrascal on Nov 7, 2013 14:13:29 GMT -8
The J tube/burn tunnel/riser in my range cooker conversion is located inside the existing cooker firebox. I'm making sure that the mods I'm doing to the cooker (which I will detail soon, honest...) don't involve any major alterations to it's structure. This is so I can revert it 'back to normal' if we have to sell it on at some stage.
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Post by satamax on Nov 7, 2013 14:59:07 GMT -8
Okay! I get it.
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Post by fdelam on Nov 8, 2013 3:34:35 GMT -8
as i made a rectangular heat riser with 20 mm thick vermiculite boards (not tested yet), i have the same question than woodrascal :
why is it warping in its case and working well for "dragon heaters" ?
does screws make the main difference ?
does the refractory coating prevent warping ?
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Post by satamax on Nov 8, 2013 3:55:35 GMT -8
Woodrascal, an idea which just bumped into my head. You could make two strips of vermiculite board, screw theses onto your heat riser inside, and butt the sides of the heat riser onto thoses, then attach all of this with wire? Like this woodrascalriser.skp (51.14 KB) |
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Post by woodrascal on Nov 8, 2013 7:16:34 GMT -8
Thanks for that Max. I'm sure the idea would work but unfortunately I'm having to use the right hand side of the existing cooker's vermiculite firebox lining as one side of the new rocket heat riser. This prevents me from wrapping any wire around the riser.
fdelam - I'm assuming the 'Dragon Heater' riser doesn't warp mainly due to the screws holding everything together.
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Post by satamax on Nov 12, 2013 13:17:48 GMT -8
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docbb
Junior Member
Back from ZA
Posts: 92
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Post by docbb on Dec 9, 2013 18:42:45 GMT -8
hello, talking about Joris Pouls, could you explain us the technique Peter?   Thanks |
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Post by pyrophile on Dec 10, 2013 6:18:32 GMT -8
Hi satamax and all
If I could find those bricks easely at 1.5 euro, I would! But the only way to buy a few bricks is to go to the ceramics dealer not far from me!I have not to pay extra charge for the transport...
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Post by peterberg on Dec 10, 2013 7:45:15 GMT -8
talking about Joris Pouls, could you explain us the technique Peter? What you see in the pictures isn't the production of an insulated riser. What you see are two short pieces of vacuum formed rigidized superwool duct which need to be coupled. Joris used ceramic paper and refractory cement to fix those together. The guy at the right wearing a greyish/green T-shirt is Joris Pouls. |
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Post by Robert on Dec 13, 2013 20:13:31 GMT -8
super smart!!! and in January i am going to visit Joris and help him to make a cooking stove. And it all is thanks to you Peter. I think that you will go straight to Rocket Heaven for all of that help you do.
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