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Post by martyn on Mar 3, 2023 9:40:18 GMT -8
I made a video yesterday that you can find on my channel and I have put up todays video.
i need to work on this but we are getting some positive results, I am sure a by pass would help no end but I dont want to go that far just yet.
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Post by Vortex on Mar 4, 2023 5:41:46 GMT -8
Beautiful vortex! Looks like the large amount of secondary air through the sides of the port is squeezing the flame into the middle so air is spiralling into the center of the vortex giving lovely definition to it. I use a gas torch for lighting the kindling, it's a lot cleaner than firelighters: jeffersontools.com/soldering-brazing-gas-torch-mapp-gas-kit.html |
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bibo
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Post by bibo on Mar 24, 2023 0:57:23 GMT -8
Hi everyone.. Here is one photo of my progress. I casted 2 stoves. This is one. paste.pics/MNIF3Trevor, I hope you can again help me with something.. I am thinking about the doors. You explained how you did, and show me on scatch. Since how you did it, does it mean that the metal front plate of stove, the skin, is not close to concrete? If you had room to put holder of the frame for doors in between plate and concrete... Did you use some insulation between that you had enough space for holder? I was thinking what bad could happen if I just weld the frame to metal plate? Both frames, from firebox and from afterburner. Except holding firebox roof concrete, does door frame has any need of going inside the firebox, or could I just do it without?.. Just make the edges on the metal plate opening a bit thicker, weld there hinges and that is all? |
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bibo
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Post by bibo on Mar 24, 2023 1:00:32 GMT -8
Also, I have one more doubt..
I want to make metal bell, which will then be attached to brick bell in shape of bench.
What is the best way to make a connection of those two, without leakage of smoke, and without using CBF?
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Post by masonryrocketstove on Mar 24, 2023 1:20:20 GMT -8
Hi everyone.. Here is one photo of my progress. I casted 2 stoves. This is one. paste.pics/MNIF3 Nice job on those casts, brother. Clean work. |
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Post by Vortex on Mar 24, 2023 2:49:01 GMT -8
Hi bibo, your stove casts look great, well done.
I originally used some 5mm ceramic paper between the front skin and the firebox casts, but it disintegrated when I was making some later changes to the stove so I removed a lot of it. The small gap the ceramic paper left between the stove casts and the steel front skin was just enough for the frame holder. If you're not using the ceramic paper you can just grind a couple of small dips in the concrete to make room for the holders. You could just weld the door frame into the front steel plate but it makes it a lot harder to make changes later, I tried to weld as little as possible.
The door and frame were made of 6mm angle steel because angle is a lot more rigid and less susceptible to warping from the heat. Even then I had some issues with the steel front panel bowing out in the middle when it was really hot, this caused the bottom of the door to jam on the hearth, to solve it I put a threaded steel bar right through the middle of the stove (see page 37).
Sounds like you would need ceramic fibre blanket for the seal between your metal bell and bench, the metal will expand and contract so you would need something flexible like that or it'll likely crack and leak.
Trev
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bibo
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Post by bibo on Mar 25, 2023 9:14:25 GMT -8
Thanks for compliments!
I put a lot of effort to make concrete moulds precise.. and it was sorth it.
My stove will have chimney going out from bell itself, meaning the top will be easy openable, to make any change. Therefore, I think I will made front panel with L shaped door frame, and L shape corners of the stove all in one piece, welded. It seems to me that I will be able still make changes if I will need, or maybe I am missing some detail what will prevent me.
This is today work. I put firebricks on top, and on them will come cast iron plate. Will stove have problems if in top chamber there are firebricks who will suck heat? It was mist convienent for me to do that way, and I am thinking I can use that stored heat up there..
Right from the stove will be brick bench, and on top of bench I want to put metal cube bell, which will just sit on top of bench. I was thinking will it be gook if I use cob to put on the joint of those, like in most of j tube rocket mass heaters folks do? I am just trying avoid CBF, so maybe if not cob, will high heat silicone be okey?
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bibo
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Post by bibo on Mar 25, 2023 9:17:15 GMT -8
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Post by Vortex on Mar 25, 2023 10:17:15 GMT -8
Up to you if you weld or not, I was just trying to 'future proof' mine as much as possible. I like being able to take off any of the 4 sides or top, makes it easy to quickly access anything I want to change.
Dense firebricks for the sides of the top chamber is fine.
You could use cob to seal the bell but may have to re-do it occasionally if it cracks. Alternatively you could use the large fibreglass rope used for the door seals to seal the bell. I have some wide flat sticky backed rope I used for the hotplates and a few other spots.
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bibo
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Post by bibo on Mar 26, 2023 3:21:20 GMT -8
Yes you are right Trev, it is better to leave it possible to open.. I will see how I can do..
Tell me please one more detail. I know you wrote somewhere that you left gaps of 2,5mm between metal L edges and metal sheets, for expanding, if remember good. I wonder, how much should I leave between my firebox insulation, vermiculit, and metal sheets and corners. And between door frame and concrete. Since everything is expanding, I am afraid to make it fit precise, although I would love to do that, to hold everything good in one piece.
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Post by masonryrocketstove on Mar 26, 2023 5:54:29 GMT -8
I know you wrote somewhere that you left gaps of 2,5mm between metal L edges and metal sheets, for expanding, if remember good. I wonder, how much should I leave between my firebox insulation, vermiculit, and metal sheets and corners. And between door frame and concrete. Since everything is expanding, I am afraid to make it fit precise, although I would love to do that, to hold everything good in one piece. Just my opinion.. but, this is the other huge advantage of using Trev’s method with bolts / washers / locknuts and threaded rod holding the frame(s) together. Especially if you use a wet mortar or clay, it can take a few weeks for everything to finish drying out and settling into place. If you use threaded bolts instead of welds, you can back a nut off a couple threads where expansion causes pressure strain, or tighten them all down when the stove is all dry and fully hot to close up the thermal expansion gaps. I like using that titanium-colored basalt fiber exhaust wrap to seal gaps, too. It’s a little cheaper per square inch than fiberglass rope, and it’s rated for temperatures a couple hundred degrees higher too. Usually comes in 2 inch (50mm) widths or bigger so it’s good for sealing around cooktops and doors. If your stove is around the same size as Trev’s, that 2.5mm gap is probably a safe bet. Especially if you can tighten nuts/bolts and you’ve got a whole roll of basalt fiber wrap on hand just in case a gap opens up somewhere. ..anywhere except for that metal stove to brick bench transition, I mean. That spot is one place where ceramic fiber is probably gonna be needed because it’s a lot thicker and more compressible. You’ll want that extra cushion to keep the flue path sealed where it goes from metal housing to brick enclosure. if you’re really worried about flue gas leaks, you can seal corners with high temp silicone caulk and you can always scrape it off later. Acetone and a putty knife will loosen it up and clean it off pretty easy if you want to take things apart. |
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Post by Vortex on Mar 26, 2023 11:03:35 GMT -8
IIRC I left 2.5mm for expansion both ends and 2mm front and back between the firebricks and the steel sheets, but there was a lot of variation in the size of the firebricks, many weren't perfectly square either which meant a row of them took up more room than expected, so it ended up quite a snug fit.
The other advantage of not welding the body of the stove is it allows the steel parts to move without warping. The steel front, back and sides are just held in place behind the angle steel frame, so they can expand without effecting the frame at all. The sides don't seem to expand a lot except around the door frame which is why I ended up putting the threaded bar through there. The hotplates expand loads so it's a lot more important to allow room for it there.
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bibo
New Member
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Post by bibo on Mar 30, 2023 5:24:29 GMT -8
I will listen your advices.. I changed plans to fit.
Will post few photos soon I hope, if weather let me work.
Trev, I know also there in thread was somewhere little discussion about maintaining the iron. I am not sure to pain it or not..
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Post by Vortex on Mar 30, 2023 9:33:35 GMT -8
The steel I got was quite clean, not rusty so I just sprayed it with some high temp bbq paint, but that was a bit too grey for my liking, so I polished it after with some old zebrite stove black that I had lying around. I've found the best thing for keeping the metal looking good is an occasional light spray of WD40 polished off with a rag.
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Post by Richarote on Apr 11, 2023 3:13:53 GMT -8
Hola Vórtice un gusto escribirle.
Soy un aficionado a la calefacción hace mucho tiempo vengo pensando en ¿como lograr juntar los beneficios de varios sistemas?
Las masa termica(de las rusas)
La rápida transmisión de calor y practicidad de limpieza(en los calefactores de hierro).
Concretamente mi pregunta es¿se puede diseñar una estufa de ladrillo y recubierta de hierro?
Perdón si no he sido claro en mi pregunta.
Y desde ya muchas gracias.
translation by Google:
Hello Vortex, a pleasure to write to you.
I am a fan of heating for a long time I have been thinking about how to combine the benefits of various systems?
The thermal masses (of the Russians)
The rapid transmission of heat and practicality of cleaning (in iron heaters).
Specifically, my question is, can you design a brick stove covered with iron?
Sorry if I was not clear in my question.
And in advance thank you very much.
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