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Post by martyn on Jan 18, 2021 0:41:25 GMT -8
I am trying to keep the overall hight down to match the height of my existing cook top, even 20mm is very helpful. It is a compromise between viewing height and cooking height, i may have to re arrange the the cooktop. I still have to work out how to neatly do the square 98mm exit in a 63mm high box, the exit will be in the back. I use the ceramic cardboard paper stuff, to seal external cracks, it is soaked in water glass and stuck in place over clean cement but only on the back side of refractory cement so around 400c
Possibly the most important aspect for me is the viewing of the vortex as i doubt i will need the full heat potential, i will be installing an ajustable bypass to try and regulate the radiant temperature. As your stove was working beyond my expectations with a rectangular exit port, i may stick to that design.
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Post by Vortex on Jan 18, 2021 2:27:45 GMT -8
Are you having a mass/barrel/contraflow channel, or is it solely a radiant heater & cookstove and then straight to chimney? If it's the latter then you don't need to worry much about the stumbler and exit port, the 4 Incher I made didn't have them. They're job seems to be re-balancing the system against the resistance of the mass and for fine tuning efficiency. None of those pieces need to be fixed in position so with the lift off hotplate it's easy enough to play around till you find the right combination for your setup.
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Post by martyn on Jan 18, 2021 6:39:02 GMT -8
Ok that is good news, yes primarily radiant heat although there is some mass the flow is pretty open and free flowing. I have been taking photos, i will put some up once i progress a little more.
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Post by martyn on Jan 22, 2021 10:31:24 GMT -8
I am still a little confused about the air supply, what size and where is it entering the fire box?
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Post by Vortex on Jan 22, 2021 12:35:30 GMT -8
Good question. Best configuration I've found so far is <20% CSA primary air at the bottom of the door with a diffuser screen set back a bit on the inside. (If the primary air blows into the stack of firewood too much it can cause overfuelling, the screen helps to spread it out more over a larger area, and heat it a bit). The secondary air is 10% CSA by either, a 2 position door catch (allowing a average 2mm gap around the edges of the door), or a 2"/50mm box section airframe, as the door frame or inside of the door frame, with a 2mm slit around the sides and top. Though a <30% CSA primary air at the base of the door would probably be fine for your application. Threshold 30mm high. The air blowing across the edge of the threshold also seems to create turbulence and mix and disperse the air over a wider area. I managed to get a couple of 11" x 14" x 3/4" kiln shelves which arrived today. Hopefully try one of them out soon. New probe and thermocouple for the Testo on the way.
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Post by martyn on Jan 22, 2021 13:12:43 GMT -8
Thanks, I will see what I can work out. As we don’t have any Covid where I live and I am working as normal, progress is slower that I wanted!
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Post by martyn on Jan 24, 2021 7:16:53 GMT -8
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Post by Vortex on Jan 24, 2021 13:11:44 GMT -8
Looking good, I like your steampunk theme If you were trying to embed the pics then use the full url like this: [img]https://i.imgur.com/vEVRiaM.jpg[/img] The new kiln shelves are quite dense, about the same as standard firebrick. I've done two burns with one now, doesn't glow much, slightly higher startup hump and overall CO, otherwise not a lot of difference. Definitely prefer something less dense though.
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Post by Vortex on Jan 25, 2021 4:16:56 GMT -8
The kiln shelf has a large crack across the middle after 2 firings, so I've removed it and put the vermiculite board back in.
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Post by martyn on Jan 25, 2021 5:42:41 GMT -8
Oh that is disappointing! I am going to start off with vermiculite for the shelf largely based on your success , i am coating everything with the vitcas waterglass stuff, it soaks well into vermiculite and certainly toughens up any flaky edges. Whether it will help in any other way i obviously dont know as yet.... imgur.com/77Kj7XRimgur.com/Qyr6TJA
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Post by Vortex on Jan 25, 2021 14:21:12 GMT -8
That's a nice cast-iron arched door, where did you find it? What's the plan for the afterburner glass?
I'd guess waterglass is probably the binder used in making vermiculite board. If you have some vermiculite saw dust try mixing a bit with some waterglass and see what it sets like. I tried it with calcium aluminate cement and the results were about as strong as a biscuit. The board I have is a similar hardness to the insulating firebricks.
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Post by martyn on Jan 25, 2021 14:45:56 GMT -8
I imported the door from Poland, it took 6 weeks to arrive, cost £120 and it seems to be a very well made piece. I will make the top window non opening but it will slide out the top with the hot plate removed. I plan to cut the ceramic hob top to size tomorrow... I also plan to eventually surround the fire box with 12mm Magply (fire board) and paint it to look like burnished steel. I have ordered 200 half round 20mm buttons today to continue the steampunk theme and act as visual effect rivet heads. I have made most of the steampunk props like the big pipes in the background, they are just painted cardboard tubes, the brick walls are wallpaper and paint. The vermiculite board is very porous and the water glass product acts as a strong glue but requires a sealer coat first.
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Post by patamos on Jan 25, 2021 22:13:12 GMT -8
Trev that is crazy that your kiln shelf has cracked. I have been using them as cook-decks atop 6" L-feed rocket ovens for years now without a problem. Sometimes seriously over-firing for hours at a stretch. And they are of course meant to take a lot of heat.
Could there have been some weird mechanical pressures at play in your set up?
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Post by Jura on Jan 26, 2021 1:01:49 GMT -8
I imported the door from Poland, it took 6 weeks to arrive, cost £120 and it seems to be a very well made piece. Did you order it at HUBOS oR HALMAT?
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Post by martyn on Jan 26, 2021 3:02:41 GMT -8
I found it online via google from a company called Tradehub. As i live on a small island my postcode is never recognised by sellers so it is always difficult to get stuff mail order but whoever i was dealing with was very helpful and it did eventually arrive safe and sound.
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