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Post by stovol on Feb 16, 2013 3:39:03 GMT -8
Thanks vortex, to me it's the al and si % that is important as well as the bulk density. Here we don't use the kg per sq m . In American manuals you look for weight in pounds per cubic foot . Generally the heavier it is the better it is. Good ones are in the 135 to 150 Pcf range. The insulating cast able refractory sold here is around 50 to 60 dollars for a 55 lb bag. It has tiny little spheres of what looks like perlite in it. It hardens but cannot take a piece of wood thrown into as I found when someone decided
to stoke one of my stoves when I was away. I build now with the person in mind who comes along not knowing what he's dealing with. One must make things strong because an ignorant person can foil the best laid plans. I insulate on the outside of very hard dense cast able .
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Post by Vortex on Apr 5, 2013 10:59:05 GMT -8
I got the stove core moulds back today, they've been out on loan for the last year so I haven't been able to add a picture of them before. I also have all the technical drawings I did for these moulds and the ones for the thermal battery side, which I haven't made yet. I'll sort out the scans and post them latter.  |
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Post by ewjobe on Jul 5, 2013 3:24:15 GMT -8
What a fantastic stove! I'm looking to build a rocket powered coup de feu/stovetop for my outdoor kitchen and your project certainly helps in my design process. Can I ask you how much the temperature differs across the top? The idea of the coup de feu (as I'm sure you are aware) is to regulate the heat for an individual pot by moving it closer or further from the place where the flame hits the plate.
Again, thanks for sharing this project!
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Post by Vortex on Jul 6, 2013 14:59:34 GMT -8
Hi ewjobe, Actually I've never heard of the term 'coup de fue' and a translation from French just go me 'Shot' which didn't help me. The temperature across the top varies hugely, the hottest part is just above the throat / riser which is around 420*C, it gets cooler as you move away from there so if you want to 'turn the heat down on what your cooking' you just move the pot away to the side until you have the right temperature. It's easy to see where the hottest part is because the surface bows up slightly due to the thermal expansion.
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Post by ewjobe on Jul 7, 2013 6:31:50 GMT -8
I haven't actually ever cooked with one, I just like the concept and it probably helps that I am a amateur foodie with naive dreams of professional cooking.  Here's a link with imagery of stoves outfitted with a coup de feu top. www.archiexpo.fr/prod/berto-s-spa/plaques-coup-de-feux-professionnelles-68812-614410.htmlYour description of temp variations seals the deal for me, I need to pursue this idea myself. I will most likely go with either a "professional" top from the folks at www.pisla.fi or a 12 mm or 15 mm cut steel plate as to possibly not get so much of the bowing you get. I'm thankful that I get to build my prototype on top of your experience! |
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Post by satamax on Jul 7, 2013 8:19:58 GMT -8
Vortex, "coup de feu" in a restaurant means, the highest rush hour peak. When you need to get all the dishes done at once. Where, saucepans, frying pans, knives and insults are flying all over the kitchen. Ewjobe. Do you have old "ranges" or cuisinieres near you. I've scavenged few cast iron plates from them. www.youtube.com/watch?v=Paj4hiZgGc0Actualy, with the horizontal batch rocket barbecue, it goes far faster now. |
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Post by ewjobe on Jul 7, 2013 13:25:19 GMT -8
Yes, coup de feu does have that meaning as well. But the meaning and translation I'm after when I write it is rather a "cast iron burner plaque" which one manufacturer has chosen to call it in English.
Old wood fired stoves are in abundance here (Sweden) and I could secure a top for about 50 Euros (I went to scavenge one at first). It would however require that I send it away for blasting (?) at an additional 50 Euros at least. And then it would still be a top not perfectly suitable as it would most likely have three openings with ring coverings for pans and I'd like two at the most (preferably one). Doing all the work with the rest of it I would rather buy a new cut thick (15 mm) plate, with no openings, for about 100 Euros or a posh new top from Pisla for about 350 Euros.
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Post by satamax on Jul 7, 2013 14:50:32 GMT -8
Ewjobe. Well, each to his own. You want to sandblast a cast iron top? Why? You can sand it yourself, and grease it somehow. You can clean it with hydrochloric acid, as they do it in restaurant. Look at the cast iron skillet www.richsoil.com/cast-iron.jspI would scavenge the cast iron. Three rings? You can always weld them. But most often there are several pieces of cast iron atop a range. Some with rings, some smooth. If you're nosy enough, you could gather all your parts for free. Actualy, my landlord has 4 or 5 ranges , siting there rusting away, in the barn behind my flat. You just have to find an old farm where they kept the ranges from the whole family. Or spend your hard earned dough! |
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Post by Vortex on Jul 8, 2013 9:21:44 GMT -8
Actually I wish I'd done mine with a cast iron top, the 5mm steel I have bows up quite a bit when hot, so when I built the 2nd one for my friend he wanted a 10mm thick steel top which I did, it was really heavy and took a long time to cut the chimney and cleanout holes. It worked great for the first 6 months then suddenly the front right-hand corner popped up about 2 inches - the centre cant bow up like the thinner stuff so it twists. I had to cut a large rectangle out above the firebox and then weld a slightly larger piece of 5mm on to the top of it so it could sit in the hole, that gave the top enough expansion room and also makes cleaning out the top a lot easier.
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Post by ewjobe on Jul 9, 2013 8:10:44 GMT -8
Taking in what you're all saying, I'm looking to scavenge/buy a used restaurant top as my first priority now. There must be broken down stoves out there where the top simply goes to scrap.
I like scavenging and I've done it plenty for this project. But given what I want to accomplish with this outdoor kitchen I will simply have to buy used and buy new sometimes. Maybe I just don't work hard enough making my dough...
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Post by satamax on Jul 9, 2013 13:29:58 GMT -8
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Post by colinsaengdara on Sept 13, 2013 7:40:17 GMT -8
I got the stove core moulds back today, they've been out on loan for the last year so I haven't been able to add a picture of them before. I also have all the technical drawings I did for these moulds and the ones for the thermal battery side, which I haven't made yet. I'll sort out the scans and post them latter. Hi Vortex! I love this stove and need to build a kitchen stove before winter if I want to stay married - and I do! I have visited this page many times hoping that you might have posted your drawings, but alas, not yet. Any chance you could post those? I've tried to estimate how you did your brickwork in the chamber with whole bricks but can't seem to duplicate it without many cuts. Many thanks for the inspiration, and if you do post the plans, thanks so much for that too! - Colin |
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ukdan
New Member
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Post by ukdan on Sept 15, 2013 10:43:12 GMT -8
Yes I would love to see some drawings to compare the "post firebox" parts of this to a batch rocket with a normal riser. Lovely build by the way, nice job |
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Post by Vortex on Dec 19, 2013 10:21:20 GMT -8
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Post by DCish on Dec 20, 2013 4:37:53 GMT -8
Have you ever gotten around to measuring your output flue temp? Also, how long does a burn usually run vs how long does your thermal battery stay charged before running out? ( e.g., max temp of masonry battery part, time to drop to 100the deg F). Thanks so much for sharing your work, this is very close to what I hope to build!
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Here's a link with imagery of stoves outfitted with a coup de feu top. 
