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Post by patamos on Sept 1, 2016 20:17:36 GMT -8
Yeah Jojohannes, that was a wonderful video of an amazing process Thank you  |
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Post by edgardo on Sept 21, 2016 6:19:20 GMT -8
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Post by edgardo on Sept 21, 2016 6:26:23 GMT -8
Hola buen dia me podrias pasar los planos por pdf. de la cocina con las 2.bocas. la de alimentacion y la boca que se usaria para cocinar,gracias
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Post by Vortex on Sept 21, 2016 14:53:32 GMT -8
Hola, Lo siento, yo no hablo español muy bien. ¿Habla usted Inglés?
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Post by wrekinwanderer on Oct 13, 2016 12:38:08 GMT -8
What a beautiful stove Vortex and you too Jojohannes, I don't think I've seen yours anywhere yet Patamos - wonderful inspiration!
Vortex, a question and a request, if you would be so kind....
Do you think your long burning, gasification stage could be emulated with a firebox strategically loaded with chunky twigs?
Any chance you could try an experiment and let me know?
Here it's down to a Vortex stove, Walker Riser-less stove or a Batch Rocket with riser 4.1B, incorporating bypasses to bench and water.... A Vortex long gasification stage would please my wife enorously, she's still a bit upset about having left the old Rayburn in England. She did enjoy those large nuts of Welsh Anthracite....
How amazing it is to have such a wonderful choice of recipes. Wow! We are so spoiled! Am very grateful...
Thank you,
Mike
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Post by patamos on Oct 13, 2016 18:56:50 GMT -8
Hi Wrekin,
video of my first build is bottom of page 7 in this thread.
Trev, what might you think of box section air intakes running from the back of the heater, along the deck above the throat, then through the throat and down the inside perimeter near the door. Holes or thin slot (ala Sjang and Matt's air ports) along the downward lengths of tubing… ?
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Post by Vortex on Oct 14, 2016 9:42:11 GMT -8
Trev, what might you think of box section air intakes running from the back of the heater, along the deck above the throat, then through the throat and down the inside perimeter near the door. Holes or thin slot (ala Sjang and Matt's air ports) along the downward lengths of tubing… ? Pat, That's pretty much what I would do, but I'd still keep the primary air port as it is for bringing the fire upto gasification temperature. Then when you shut the primary air port it would be forced to draw through the box section. Vortex, a question and a request, if you would be so kind.... Do you think your long burning, gasification stage could be emulated with a firebox strategically loaded with chunky twigs? Any chance you could try an experiment and let me know? Thank you, Mike Thanks Mike, The gasification mode seems to work best with small sticks at the front and progressively larger pieces of timber towards the back. The main problem with just using small sticks is your fuel is used up too fast, so you have to refuel several times, and every time you open the stove door you lose the intense heat needed to gasify the wood. |
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Post by wrekinwanderer on Oct 14, 2016 11:44:53 GMT -8
Ah ha pat i remember it now thanks for the link!
Okay thanks vortex how big are the pieces at the back?
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Post by Vortex on Oct 15, 2016 9:10:57 GMT -8
No bigger than half the width of the back of the fire box. Make sure to leave gaps between the pieces to allow free flow of gases. Like this, then fill the rest with small sticks and kindling:  |
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Post by wrekinwanderer on Oct 17, 2016 4:58:38 GMT -8
Thanks so much Vortex. That makes things really clear.
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Post by patamos on Oct 17, 2016 9:51:28 GMT -8
Trev, what might you think of box section air intakes running from the back of the heater, along the deck above the throat, then through the throat and down the inside perimeter near the door. Holes or thin slot (ala Sjang and Matt's air ports) along the downward lengths of tubing… ? Pat, That's pretty much what I would do, but I'd still keep the primary air port as it is for bringing the fire upto gasification temperature. Then when you shut the primary air port it would be forced to draw through the box section. Thanks Trev, What i am wondering is how we might somehow close the primary air ports automatically? And whether the downward movement of super heated air in the metal box sections would effectively slow the flow enough to effect a 12% or so reduction in volume of incoming air. The reason being that here in Canada masonry heaters are exempt from EPA criteria because the have a 'fixed high burn rate'. While most members of this forum would know when and why to reduce primary air intake, many of the general public might damp things down too early - what with generations of smouldering fires in box stoves woven into habit... |
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Post by Vortex on Oct 18, 2016 11:16:45 GMT -8
Hi Pat, good idea to move that discussion over here. Apart from the box section door/door frame idea, (where I suggested having the primary inlet at the top front, so the air has to travel all around the inside of the door/ door frame, before it exits inside the stove at the bottom. This may slow the draw when the stove gets hot, but then again the draw may override it. We'd have to test it to find out.) I think the bi-metal coil spring actuated primary air flap is probably the best you'll get. If this setup was on the stove door - rather than on the side of the stove as it is in this picture - it should do what you want OK. You can adjust or override it by turning the handle top left: s271.photobucket.com/user/motorseven/media/Stove/VEcarb011.jpg.htmlIf you want to give it a go you should be able to find a suitable bi-metal coil spring to make it out of here: quadrajetparts.com/advanced_search_result.php?keywords=Bi-Metal+spring&search_in_description=1&x=0&y=0If that's to complex, another way to avoid the user closing the primary air down to early, might be to have a thermometer on the front of the stove that they can use as a guide to know when it's hot enough. Something like the stove pipe thermometers that have an optimal temperature range marked on them. You could add your own marks for when it's OK to close it down. www.fluesystems.com/shop/stove_thermometer_condar_eco_large.jpg |
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Post by Vortex on Nov 1, 2016 10:04:36 GMT -8
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Post by patamos on Nov 1, 2016 15:22:53 GMT -8
Thanks Trev
And thanks always for posting the pictures.
Those are 3/8" small rocks sitting on the ceramic stove-top glass. I sandwiched a 12" x 5" layer of 1/4" ceramic felt on to the glass over top of the throat to keep the rocks from getting too hot there. The clients' have toddlers over fairly often. So this is a way of helping curious hands figure out 'hot' without getting burned. Still conducts and radiates somewhat, but at least you get a second before it it too much.
I lost all my photo data taken during the build, but made some interesting discoveries regarding how much ISA this core can warm, and where to speed up and slow down the gas flow. Will share more when i have a bit more time.
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Post by ilpiccolo on Nov 4, 2016 1:32:30 GMT -8
Hello everyone and thank you for all this.I read several times all comments to this beautiful creation and are more or less ready to start. I would like to change some things: first try to provide 3 air sources (the first through the door / under fire, the second preheated half-height above / behind the fire, the third before the throat when I see the need) .I would also like to change the cast of the throat in a way that I explain through pictures because easier. I can't post pictures. last-minute suggestions? thanks to all and sorry for my english Jojohannes how you designed the flue?you can share your plan? I can not upload photos or files. maybe so  drive.google.com/file/d/0B_64DF5h8nHzTUF6ak5pOVFkN3c/view?usp=drivesdkdrive.google.com/file/d/0B_64DF5h8nHzWDItY2o3UHRya2c/view?usp=drivesdk |
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