Teach
Junior Member
Posts: 89
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Post by Teach on Feb 10, 2009 9:00:08 GMT -8
hpmer,
If you are maple syropping...................have a look at the institutional style of rocket stove. It would be a little more work to build as most of it is metal, but for an annual even such as that it might be worth the effort. I'd modify the feed though to a down draft to ease the feeding of it. I hate having to bend down to look after a fire if I don't have to. Being tall has its drawbacks.
Teach....
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hpmer
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Post by hpmer on Feb 10, 2009 16:07:42 GMT -8
Institutional style? Is that just larger, or is there some more important difference from the standard?
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Teach
Junior Member
Posts: 89
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Post by Teach on Feb 10, 2009 18:39:33 GMT -8
Well...........yes and yes. They are scaled up stoves but the big difference is really in the clearances and how the skirt is set up to convey heat to the pot over a larger area of the pot therby reducing the amount of fuel needed for the same level of heating. I think I said that right. Anyways here is a complete how to .pdf file you can read on them. What seems to be common with larger stoves like these is the stove is built to fit the pot or at least appears that way. www.repp.org/discussiongroups/resources/stoves/apro/Institutional_Rocket.pdfPersonally I would change the feed on them to accept the downdraft version so you don't have to bend over to feed the fire. I have a lot more info if you need it. Let me know. Teach.... |
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Teach
Junior Member
Posts: 89
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Post by Teach on Feb 10, 2009 19:39:23 GMT -8
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hpmer
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Post by hpmer on Feb 11, 2009 16:42:29 GMT -8
Teach:
Thanks for the links. Very interesting. I built a down feed adapter for my barrel stove from a piece of galvanized pipe and a pipe "T" surrounded by perlite. Am still learning though. If you have other information I'd love to have a look.
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Teach
Junior Member
Posts: 89
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Post by Teach on Feb 11, 2009 17:42:03 GMT -8
Do some digging on those sites. You will find more infor than you can digest in more than a few sittings. Just google anything "rocket stove" or "institutional rocket stove". You will find all you need from there. If there is something specific you need, ask me and I will try to funnel specific info to you as I have done here. Otherwise there is just too much.
If ya want potatoes, ya gotta grab a hoe! grin
Teach....
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Post by mizwiz on Sept 4, 2009 23:09:38 GMT -8
A simple way is to coat the bottom and sides of the pot with thin layer of sticky mud. It will eventually bake off, and being so thin it won't be too much of an insulator. Some people rub dish soap over their pots. While this does indeed work, i do not care for the idea of smelly burnt chemicals in my food. Pomolive scented tea.. EWWWW. We used the soap technique camping; it does speed cleanup, not sure whether the soot outside the soap still helps absorb heat (seems likely). The trick is to put the soap on the outside of the pot ;-) Traditional soap is fat (tallow or olive oil) and alkali (ashes or lye); not much worse than what you're burning when you cook. We pack biodegradable soap in our camping kit for that guilt-free nature-dishes experience, and something simple like Dr Br.'s would be relatively clean stuff. I never noticed any soap flavor in the foods we cooked out camping. (Smoke, sometimes. Usually, just the absence of flavors like chlorine and spices.) I agree that the mud trick sounds neat. Clay can make metal rust, so I wouldn't leave it on when you're not using it. Why would you care about soot on your pot, but not mind coating it with mud? Just ease of rinse-off? -Erica |
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hpmer
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Post by hpmer on Feb 22, 2010 15:08:07 GMT -8
OK, Donkey. I took your suggestion and built a stove with a 6" heat riser. What a difference in output! I had not flames, but a red plasma like heat coming up the heat riser onto the bottom of the pot. Incredible to watch and the boil was VERY energetic.
The problem is that it is eating through the metal cans of the heat riser in short order. So....
I'm now ready to build a new stove from clay/vermiculite and incorporating the downdraft feature. I plan to make it portable by building it in a galvanized wash tub, borrowing the idea from another poster (grizbach - "Is everyone keeping warm...") recently.
How critical are the measurements? I know that the riser should not be smaller than the burn tunnel, but what about the other way? I'm thinking of a burn tunnel 6x8" and a heat riser 7x7". That ok? Not much of a difference but thought I'd ask before embarking on the effort.
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Post by grizbach on Feb 22, 2010 17:36:08 GMT -8
hpmer, The recomended dimensions are a good guide to follow. Close is good. They may be rocket stoves, but it's not rocket science!!
Your measurements sound good to me.
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Post by Donkey on Feb 22, 2010 20:07:50 GMT -8
6 times eight is 48 square inches, 7 times seven is 49 square. Close enough, it'll probably be just fine.
What's more critical is that the height of the heat riser is not less than twice the length of the burn tunnel.
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