|
Post by bmeagle on Apr 16, 2012 7:07:56 GMT -8
Shame on me, I should've known that! Thanks anyway, the expansion coefficients are different enough.
|
|
|
Post by woodburner on Apr 22, 2012 23:51:58 GMT -8
Kaolin (china clay) does not have these problems and is usualy even cheaper. Seems like quite a luxury (and not cheap) in the UK.
|
|
|
Post by bmeagle on Jun 24, 2012 11:54:38 GMT -8
I have been busy, but good things are usually worth the wait! System size 150mm x 150mm (6" x 6"). For your viewing and commenting pleasure : [youtube] www.youtube.com/watch?v=3VtwBt5oxTE&feature=youtube_gdata_player[/youtube] I have fired my RMBH a half dozen times, so far it's remaining intact! It heats the house up after about an hour, the bricks are still warm the next morning. For the record this was my first ever masonry project, I am no brick mason!
|
|
hpmer
Full Member
Posts: 240
|
Post by hpmer on Jun 24, 2012 14:56:55 GMT -8
Very cool. How did you bridge the top gap? The base looks like a sheet of plywood? Did you build it on a slab or did you support it underneath in a basement/crawlspace?
|
|
|
Post by bmeagle on Jun 24, 2012 20:18:36 GMT -8
The top gap was bridged using bricks, I built a layer with the bricks pointing inwards to start the taper, after that set completely, I repeated the process. This is built on a slab on grade floor, houses in SA are of the masonry type, no basement. As this isn't a permanent build and I needed to protect the floor tiles, I built this on a sheet of pine shelving. However, there is a dry layer of brick on that, then another layer of brick which is the first layer of the RMBH, so there are two layers of brick between the bell the cooled bell gasses and the wood and three layers including the insulating fire brick between the fire and the wood planks. The couple of bottom layers don't get warm, to much thermal mass in the double layered floor.
|
|