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Post by peterberg on Jan 5, 2023 12:47:17 GMT -8
Also, who or what is "The Loam Freemanship?" I'm not finding anything that's sticking out on Google, because I'd love to explore what they've done. It's my own translation of the firm name "De Vrijlemerij". Mentioned in the thread about that 200 mm DSR3 with bench. See donkey32.proboards.com/thread/3899/dsr3-build-200mm-system-benchIt's a small firm of three guys, they like to build good mass heaters. Now and then I am asked for advice, namely about construction of the sidewinder-see-through DSR3. It's in the same thread as above. |
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Post by peterberg on Jan 7, 2023 2:36:01 GMT -8
What is the primary air CSA? All the air is fed through one opening in the front, below the door. I checked the drawings just now, the one that's done in ISO metrics is the more complete of the two. The front air inlet is drawn in there as well, the whole of the thing is a 150 mm system. In order to convert this drawing to imperial: open the drawing, select the whole core, press Ctrl-C, start a new drawing in inches and press Ctrl-V to copy the core, converting it to inches by doing that. As I said, the air inlet opening is larger as compared to a straight batchrocket of the same size. In this drawing it's about 65 cm², equivalent to 10.1 sq.in, implemented as a fairly wide rectangle in order to distribute the air more or less equally between the two vertical ducts. |
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Post by Solomon on Jan 10, 2023 12:30:59 GMT -8
I have discovered this spreadsheet: docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1NtSG8JYFwjceHdosV2u81YJz48gw78qr8_DaigujjMo/edit?usp=sharing and I have the drawings downloaded and scaled. I have a couple questions (as usual, also, I'd be happy to send you some money for your time).
The drawings show a grate with an a sort of ash tray below the firebox. The spreadsheet dimensions do not include this area as part of the firebox. Could it be advisable to add an ash box beneath the firebox, with a flat floor in the firebox and a port with a grate to keep coals from falling through? Since my core will be elevated perhaps 600mm above the floor for better viewing, I thought it might be utilitarian to build an ash box into the support structure so the ash could be cleaned out perhaps once a year.
Also, the spreadsheet says the firebox can be a little longer. How much longer? I recall the original design had a variance of 4-5.5 times the base number.
Finally, what build materials are recommended? I assume the walls would most economically be made of brick, and then I was thinking horizontal pieces cast refractory. Or is there something better? I notice from the drawings that whatever the walls are made of is approximately 30mm.
Thanks for your time
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Post by peterberg on Jan 12, 2023 2:27:33 GMT -8
The drawings show a grate with a sort of ash tray below the firebox. The spreadsheet dimensions do not include this area as part of the firebox. Could it be advisable to add an ash box beneath the firebox, with a flat floor in the firebox and a port with a grate to keep coals from falling through? Since my core will be elevated perhaps 600mm above the floor for better viewing, I thought it might be utilitarian to build an ash box into the support structure so the ash could be cleaned out perhaps once a year. As you may have seen from the work of The Loam Freemanship, they don't use that grate(ish) feature. That ash tray is there in order to house the ash bed where the fire is on top. For a small heater, the grate is only beneficial in the sense it'll hold up the larger pieces of fuel so some air is admitted inderneath. The overall effect is a shortened coal stage. Burning on an ash bed has the benefit of almost no carbon in the ash plus the ash is allowed to form clinkers which can be taken out very easily. The net result is less ash residue, mainly consisting of the minerals that the tree has been taking up from the soil. So, building a special ash box which is large enough to hold a year's production of ash? In my view, it's not worth the effort and adding unnecessary complexity as well. Also, the spreadsheet says the firebox can be a little longer. How much longer? I recall the original design had a variance of 4-5.5 times the base number. I always mention the depth of the firebox could be extended by 25% without problems. Above that, the firebox capacity is getting too large to ascertain overall stable behaviour. Finally, what build materials are recommended? I assume the walls would most economically be made of brick, and then I was thinking horizontal pieces cast refractory. Or is there something better? I notice from the drawings that whatever the walls are made of is approximately 30mm. The walls in the drawing are thought to be made out of kiln shelf material. This is expensive and not stable enough on its own, so it'll need a support frame of sorts. In the drawing done to limit the weight of the core. Building an upscaled one, the wall thickness can be scaled up as well so regular firebrick on its side is a good option. Regarding the top of the firebox: refractory slabs works best, this could be refractory castable or firebrick slabs. |
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Post by skywalker on Jan 25, 2023 12:39:24 GMT -8
Solomon, devrijlemerij.nl or search Facebook for De Vrijlemerij. And you will find us  All texts are in Dutch, but you can look at the pictures. De Vrijlemerij
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Post by josephcrawley on Jan 25, 2023 15:12:48 GMT -8
Solomon, devrijlemerij.nl or search Facebook for De Vrijlemerij. And you will find us All texts are in Dutch, but you can look at the pictures. De Vrijlemerij Sorry to drift the thread but would you mind sharing your clay plaster recipe? Thanks |
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Post by skywalker on Jan 29, 2023 3:05:10 GMT -8
Solomon , devrijlemerij.nl or search Facebook for De Vrijlemerij. And you will find us All texts are in Dutch, but you can look at the pictures. De Vrijlemerij Sorry to drift the thread but would you mind sharing your clay plaster recipe? Thanks It's a premixed formula made by Oskam or Tierrafino Clays. Both Dutch suppliers. We call it basic loam and has a typical brown colour. The colored clay like yellow or red we call finish loam. It's also premixed and called Tierrafino Duro. It has only finer parts of sand and mostly fine marble sand, some cellulose for hardening (not specifically necassary) and natural pigment. To make it yourself get some white clay, marble sand, fine sand and a natural pigment. Ratio clay:sand is ±1:4. Add up to 15% natural pigment. Advice: allways premix all your ingredients dry and after that add your water. Add water until you reach your desired consistency. To test your color just make a small batch. And scale that up to the whole project size. |
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Post by josephcrawley on Jan 29, 2023 6:37:29 GMT -8
It's a premixed formula made by Oskam or Tierrafino Clays. Both Dutch suppliers. We call it basic loam and has a typical brown colour. The colored clay like yellow or red we call finish loam. It's also premixed and called Tierrafino Duro. It has only finer parts of sand and mostly fine marble sand, some cellulose for hardening (not specifically necassary) and natural pigment. To make it yourself get some white clay, marble sand, fine sand and a natural pigment. Ratio clay:sand is ±1:4. Add up to 15% natural pigment. Advice: allways premix all your ingredients dry and after that add your water. Add water until you reach your desired consistency. To test your color just make a small batch. And scale that up to the whole project size. Thanks for the response. It is interesting there's no fiber in the mix. Or do you guys use a mess layer embedded in the plaster? |
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Post by skywalker on Jan 29, 2023 7:59:21 GMT -8
It's a premixed formula made by Oskam or Tierrafino Clays. Both Dutch suppliers. We call it basic loam and has a typical brown colour. The colored clay like yellow or red we call finish loam. It's also premixed and called Tierrafino Duro. It has only finer parts of sand and mostly fine marble sand, some cellulose for hardening (not specifically necassary) and natural pigment. To make it yourself get some white clay, marble sand, fine sand and a natural pigment. Ratio clay:sand is ±1:4. Add up to 15% natural pigment. Advice: allways premix all your ingredients dry and after that add your water. Add water until you reach your desired consistency. To test your color just make a small batch. And scale that up to the whole project size. Thanks for the response. It is interesting there's no fiber in the mix. Or do you guys use a mess layer embedded in the plaster? We always use mesh. Fiberglas. To prevent from cracking. |
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Post by fiedia on Feb 18, 2023 0:12:54 GMT -8
I am going to try your clay finish.
Could you please tell us what kind of fiber glass mesh you are using? Is it dense or loose ? What is the gap between two threads? Do you put the mesh directly on the bricks or between 2 layers of clay mix? Is there a gap between the bricks and the clay mix as between 2 skins of brick? Thanks
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Post by skywalker on Feb 19, 2023 12:00:04 GMT -8
I am going to try your clay finish.
Could you please tell us what kind of fiber glass mesh you are using? Is it dense or loose ? What is the gap between two threads? Do you put the mesh directly on the bricks or between 2 layers of clay mix? Is there a gap between the bricks and the clay mix as between 2 skins of brick? Thanks
All types of fiber glass mesh are suitable. Same counts for the gaps. Don't go wider than 15mm x 15mm. It's loose like a net. First you put one layer of brown coat than you work the mesh into the wet plaster. Just trowel it in softly. Than dry and add a finish layer. Is there a gap between the bricks and the clay mix as between 2 skins of brick? I don't understand this question. The plaster goes straight away on the bricks. |
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Post by fiedia on Feb 20, 2023 11:36:45 GMT -8
Perfect, I am going to try it very soon. Thanks
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All texts are in Dutch, but you can look at the pictures.
