Post by belgiangulch on Feb 3, 2021 7:32:07 GMT -8
Hi All;
I was planning on waiting until spring to install a bypass on my shop stove (7" batch, double barrel, brickbell.)
The extended January thaw convinced me, yesterday WAS spring. The entire job including a run to town to buy a 4" hvac flex 90.
Took apx 3-4 hours
Using a 4" diamond core drill and a 4" bimetal drill. The longest slowest part of the job was drilling thru 4" of clay brick.
My core drill was only 1.25" deep and the bimetal drill was 2"... So core drill for awhile, then using a 3/16" masonry drill I drilled holes in strategic locations. A tapered metal punch was used to crack out chunks. Eventually I made it thru!
Note to others) a bimetal drill is not a very good tool for cutting brick! After cutting thru the brick I went to use the Bimetal saw on the 8" stovepipe... Oh it worked but mainly by friction it was so dull, I melted a hole thru!
The 4" sliding bypass I used is the same one I sell at dragontechrmh.com/.
It slipped nicely into my brick hole. A generous bead of Rutland gasket cement and one tapcon masonry screw with fender washer sealed it up to the brick. A bit of wiggling around and the 4" 90 was slipped into place. A hose clamp secures it at the gate and metal duct tape seals it where it enters the stack.
This works awesome!!! No bell should be built without a bypass.
An extra added benefit for me is I now have the ability to Not heat the bell!
We have many "shoulder season" days here. When it will be 30 in the morning but 70 in the afternoon.
Now I will be able to run the batch and mainly only produce radiant heat off the barrels!
How cool (warm) is that!
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I was planning on waiting until spring to install a bypass on my shop stove (7" batch, double barrel, brickbell.)
The extended January thaw convinced me, yesterday WAS spring. The entire job including a run to town to buy a 4" hvac flex 90.
Took apx 3-4 hours
Using a 4" diamond core drill and a 4" bimetal drill. The longest slowest part of the job was drilling thru 4" of clay brick.
My core drill was only 1.25" deep and the bimetal drill was 2"... So core drill for awhile, then using a 3/16" masonry drill I drilled holes in strategic locations. A tapered metal punch was used to crack out chunks. Eventually I made it thru!
Note to others) a bimetal drill is not a very good tool for cutting brick! After cutting thru the brick I went to use the Bimetal saw on the 8" stovepipe... Oh it worked but mainly by friction it was so dull, I melted a hole thru!
The 4" sliding bypass I used is the same one I sell at dragontechrmh.com/.
It slipped nicely into my brick hole. A generous bead of Rutland gasket cement and one tapcon masonry screw with fender washer sealed it up to the brick. A bit of wiggling around and the 4" 90 was slipped into place. A hose clamp secures it at the gate and metal duct tape seals it where it enters the stack.
This works awesome!!! No bell should be built without a bypass.
An extra added benefit for me is I now have the ability to Not heat the bell!
We have many "shoulder season" days here. When it will be 30 in the morning but 70 in the afternoon.
Now I will be able to run the batch and mainly only produce radiant heat off the barrels!
How cool (warm) is that!
