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Post by satamax on Jan 11, 2021 15:10:22 GMT -8
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Post by josephcrawley on Jan 12, 2021 6:46:43 GMT -8
I had a similar situation and did as some of the folks in that thread are recommending and used heat shielding made from some scrap aluminum flashing.
There was a story in a vermont castings wood book about a conventional steel stove that slowly carbonized the floor below it until it caught fire and the stove plunged into the basement. Luckily it broke a water line on the way down which put the fire out.
Scary stuff! Edit.... According to many sources heat shielding reduces setbacks on a conventional wood stove by 2/3rds for walls and 1/2 for ceilings. As to what temperature is safe? There are a lot of conflicting numbers.
UL labs setbacks at least in the eighties were established by moving a wall closer to the stove with a roaring fire for 30 minutes until the temp hit 117 plus ambient temperature fahrenheit. Out of that a sensible temp to not exceed is 195f. Hopefully that made sense. Of course everyone should do their own research and make their own decisions and above all be safe!
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fuegos
Full Member
not out of the woods yet
Posts: 177
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Post by fuegos on Jan 13, 2021 5:29:29 GMT -8
"heat shielding made from some scrap aluminum flashing" Aluminium is a better conductor than steel - my wooden oven door is skinned with 2 mm alu checker plate on the inside & the oven regularly gets up to 250 - 300 C .The lintel above the opening is charred - Sho Sugi Ban - not really practical in your situation .
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Post by josephcrawley on Jan 13, 2021 6:35:47 GMT -8
"heat shielding made from some scrap aluminum flashing" Aluminium is a better conductor than steel - my wooden oven door is skinned with 2 mm alu checker plate on the inside & the oven regularly gets up to 250 - 300 C .The lintel above the opening is charred - Sho Sugi Ban - not really practical in your situation . Read this piece if you want to understand shielding and how it works. It is all about the air gap! www.tinywoodstove.com/how-to-build-heat-shields-for-wood-stoves/
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Post by pianomark on Jan 13, 2021 8:16:18 GMT -8
The key concept here is conduction vs. radiation. Yes, aluminum is a good conductor. If your hot aluminum is touching wood it is dangerous. However, aluminum is a poor radiator and a good reflector of heat. So if there is an adequate air gap, preferably on both sides of the shield, air convection (movement) will negate the minimal heat conduction through the air itself.
Don't take my word for it. It is fairly easy to demonstrate and thus experience this concept by putting a reflective shield between a radiant heat source and your hand.
I couldn't tell from the photos, perhaps satamax doesn't have enough room to allow for the adequate air space to make a reflective shield work effectively.
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fuegos
Full Member
not out of the woods yet
Posts: 177
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Post by fuegos on Jan 13, 2021 9:47:28 GMT -8
The key concept here is conduction vs. radiation. Yes, aluminum is a good conductor. If your hot aluminum is touching wood it is dangerous. However, aluminum is a poor radiator and a good reflector of heat. So if there is an adequate air gap, preferably on both sides of the shield, air convection (movement) will negate the minimal heat conduction through the air itself. in my case the chequer plate is smooth side towards the oven .It seems to work fine as the pattern side sits on the wood & i think ther'es enough air gap.Iv'e seen the same material installed in trucks and caravans eith sone small spacers - just a bit of pipe between the plate and the outside.
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