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Post by scottiniowa on Nov 5, 2020 8:04:44 GMT -8
I am very curious about how you will set those 4 layers of granite to behave like one. Why not laying on the flat side of the granite?? you get the same thickness. Now after burning around one month in my oven I think that it would be safer/easy to build only 1 skin ( 11 cm wide) of refractory bricks over the riser and plaster it. Nothing wrong with with 2 skins but more easy to build on flat side than the narrow side of bricks. I do think that more layers are not better than one. ALL of my granite, comes 1.3" thick and often up to 30" square, so technically a 24 x 24" square is the largest I can make super square. IF I lay flat as you say, I have a "seam" every 1.3" for flue gas to escape, unless I do the over all plaster, which of course opens up a few other things. By laying them as I showed, there are NO seams that are even with each other (over lapped, every layer) expansion of .125" to each 45 degree corner with super wool being the stop gap, and 1/16" ceramic paper between each layer stepping up. Thus if the top layers heat to 400 and the bottoms to 200, the expansion can happen without worries of escaping flue gas. corner caps of 4" angle held in three places with stud bolts radiating from core of bell, with under lying super wool on the corners for yet again another stop gap for flue gasses. This somewhat on theory, and somewhat on what I have done before. (I have not done this 6'tall before) Granite holds nicely with a very thin layer of refractory cement on edges) So the piece itself, per layer up, acts as one piece of mass, and of course there are many pieces. Lastly to do what you mention, would require a full length cut every four inches of every piece of granite, and if you have ever cut these with a sliding rock saw like mine, you would soon try to figure out a way to Cut Less and use larger pieces. But as always I don't mind to be corrected.
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Post by scottiniowa on Nov 5, 2020 8:31:10 GMT -8
I am very curious about how you will set those 4 layers of granite to behave like one. Why not laying on the flat side of the granite?? you get the same thickness. Now after burning around one month in my oven I think that it would be safer/easy to build only 1 skin ( 11 cm wide) of refractory bricks over the riser and plaster it. Nothing wrong with with 2 skins but more easy to build on flat side than the narrow side of bricks. I do think that more layers are not better than one. Thought I had sent this once, but cannot see it. my granite pieces are all 1.3" thick and up to 30" square, my sliding rock saw, can make square up to 24"x 24" (about all I can lift) By doing as shown, I can over lap the seams, and in doing so, I can have a extremely hard seam for flue gas escape. a piece of 1/16" ceramic paper between layers edge, lets each step expand horizontally and slide on this same edge. The corners are .125" stepped off the corner surface and on 45 degrees so that they expand and contract against super wool. The outside corner angle of steel, is held with three studs, and again super wool to prevent exhaust escapes.. sounds complicated but actually simple. So every layer is its own bit of mass. As opposed to laying flat, requires far more cutting. (this is free mass but still takes time to cut) I don't mind being corrected. Scott
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dcp
New Member
Posts: 35
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Post by dcp on Nov 6, 2020 0:32:29 GMT -8
VERRY IMPORTANT PARAMETER: the oven is ment to be build as such the pressure innside is ALLWAYS LOWER that the outside. LOW PRESSURE SYSTEM make impossible that the flue gass escape to outside. thats why, if build right, this type of stove is verry safe. as I understand. You can ask Matt at Walker Stoves or Peterberg more details about building. I am only an amateur who build his first stove.
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Post by scottiniowa on Nov 6, 2020 11:43:56 GMT -8
VERRY IMPORTANT PARAMETER: the oven is ment to be build as such the pressure innside is ALLWAYS LOWER that the outside. LOW PRESSURE SYSTEM make impossible that the flue gass escape to outside. thats why, if build right, this type of stove is verry safe. as I understand. You can ask Matt at Walker Stoves or Peterberg more details about building. I am only an amateur who build his first stove. DCP, are you saying or thinking, that I have something in violation of this VERY IMPORTANT PARAMETER? Not sure what I am being told here?
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dcp
New Member
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Post by dcp on Nov 10, 2020 1:39:40 GMT -8
"Thus if the top layers heat to 400 and the bottoms to 200, the expansion can happen without worries of escaping flue gas."
sorry for confusion. english is not my first language. I want to say that because is low pressure innside the bell then smoke has no way to get out. and therefore no need to build 4 layers to be safe. I do know that flames will heat fist layer inside and after the the second and so on. the heat will travel on the thyknes of the bell not only on the height expansion and contraction will stress every joint and layer you have in the bell. and if the inner layer is hotter than the next, you will have bigger risk to crack one or another.. and if you have 4..... better and safer to have a right size/good draft in chimney related to the bbr you want to build. I did build only one bbr. no violation as I can see . this is not some kinda law. only bigger risks ....
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Post by scottiniowa on Nov 10, 2020 12:58:38 GMT -8
Upon further gleaning of information, I will back up a bit, redraw a few things and once again present for additional advice. Thanks for the consideration of such.
Scott
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Post by scottiniowa on Nov 18, 2020 9:21:07 GMT -8
The beauty of the CAD work, no matter what brand or kind is the ability to see things before any funds are spent or work done. Please view this pdf file, pdfhost.io/v/YxgAR1YQA_57_ISA_bell_with_DRS2_stove.pdf This is simply a DSR2 stove inside a simple square bell, which has one bottom flue escape hole and opposing clean out hole. The stove as you can see in the top view shown, brings the question of if this is TOO close to the bell side? (the exhaust port) There are NO obstructions but it is fairly close. I do plan on a insulation stove wrap as suggested and it won't be difficult to do. The stove is as drawn/designed by Peterberg in other areas of the forum The bell is planned for the 57 ft sq for a 6" DSR2 stove The yellow brick are fire brick from top of stove and up There is very little brick cutting done this way. The brick part of the bell is 4.5" wide, and I can put my granite mass on the outside for looks and MASS I don't need instant heat, just steady and efficient heat. Thoughts and ideas? Note: I can install the bricks above the front part of the stove on edge which will give me about 2" more room in front of stove, as far as that goes, I could put the entire brick structure on edge to save a great deal of bricks, if this is deemed ok.
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