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Post by hadydalaii on Aug 25, 2020 2:58:27 GMT -8
yes, insulation on everything touching ground - bottom, back and sides. and i thought about simple 20 cm metal flue pipe for chimney, straight up from the bell all the way. will attach some sketch a bit later.
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Post by hadydalaii on Aug 25, 2020 3:55:11 GMT -8
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Post by josephcrawley on Aug 25, 2020 14:07:24 GMT -8
Don't forget to add a cold start bypass you will need it.
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fuegos
Full Member
not out of the woods yet
Posts: 177
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Post by fuegos on Aug 26, 2020 2:13:27 GMT -8
yes the chimney overview gives a better idea ,thanks.
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Post by hadydalaii on Aug 26, 2020 5:09:20 GMT -8
Don't forget to add a cold start bypass you will need it i don't really get your point here. to bypass what? if riser opens into this single bell, and so does exhaust opening with a straight vertical chimney flue, what shorter bypass could there be? maybe i just don't understand something intricate being there, then please explain it.
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Post by Dan (Upstate NY, USA) on Aug 26, 2020 9:10:44 GMT -8
It is a height bypass, usually the opening to the chimney goes almost to the floor of the bell. The bypass goes in the chimney near the top of the bell. This bypass is open for cold starts, once the chimney is cleared of the "slug" of cold air the bypass is closed and the stove efficiency (by means of harvesting heat into the house) increases.
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Post by hadydalaii on Aug 26, 2020 9:52:53 GMT -8
thank you, Dan, now i got it! and thanks josef for even mentioning the matter.
now, since i need a bypass, i recall some info about narrow slit in a flue that shortcuts the exhaust gases path while flue is cold and "deactivates" itself when things get hotter and gases rush to the wider chimney opening near the bottom. without any valves but because of some tricky hot gases physics. can't say for sure where i read it, "RS builder's handbook" or maybe even "Hand sculpted house"... so, is it true?
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Post by josephcrawley on Sept 8, 2020 12:00:40 GMT -8
thank you, Dan, now i got it! and thanks josef for even mentioning the matter. now, since i need a bypass, i recall some info about narrow slit in a flue that shortcuts the exhaust gases path while flue is cold and "deactivates" itself when things get hotter and gases rush to the wider chimney opening near the bottom. without any valves but because of some tricky hot gases physics. can't say for sure where i read it, "RS builder's handbook" or maybe even "Hand sculpted house"... so, is it true? I have seen these bypass slots in plans for contra flow stoves. No idea what they are called or the physics behind how they work. If you can find the relevant text I would like to read it or even recall the name of the slot so I could look it up.
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Post by hadydalaii on Sept 8, 2020 22:46:48 GMT -8
I do my best searching, yet got nothing so far. The thing is that i've read so many books and articles related, that just can't find that specific one. But i keep trying))
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Post by hadydalaii on Sept 12, 2020 13:12:40 GMT -8
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Post by hadydalaii on Sept 16, 2020 1:15:51 GMT -8
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fuegos
Full Member
not out of the woods yet
Posts: 177
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Post by fuegos on Sept 16, 2020 10:38:33 GMT -8
Whatever you build you will have to buy some lengths of stovepipe to reach the roof & the design of your house isn't dependent on what type of stove you build..... my thoughts are that you should just select one plan , go ahead and build it .There is no perfect solution & your ideas seem pretty sound , i think you have a good understanding of the fundamentals so small detail won't make much of a difference.Using a sand/clay mortar will mean that your materials will be intact if you need to rebuild.As a carpenter & forester i agree with "measure twice cut once" but in the end ,make some cuts & that will give you an idea of what to do next.
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