|
|
Post by hof on Dec 12, 2021 8:05:58 GMT -8
|
|
tferr
Junior Member
Posts: 69
|
Post by tferr on Dec 12, 2021 9:33:43 GMT -8
Hey Hof I have enjoyed the build. What is that last layer
|
|
|
|
Post by hof on Dec 12, 2021 9:42:39 GMT -8
Hey Hof I have enjoyed the build. What is that last layer A mixture of residues of various cement-based mixtures: tile adhesive, floor leveler, portland cement and some perlite. |
|
|
|
Post by hof on Jan 2, 2022 11:41:19 GMT -8
|
|
|
|
Post by Dan (Upstate NY, USA) on Jan 2, 2022 13:50:05 GMT -8
No... steam
|
|
|
|
Post by hof on Jan 2, 2022 13:59:34 GMT -8
|
|
fuegos
Full Member
not out of the woods yet
Posts: 177
|
Post by fuegos on Jan 3, 2022 2:54:45 GMT -8
Nice job Hof looks like it works well from the start
|
|
|
|
Post by hof on Jan 3, 2022 9:58:15 GMT -8
Nice job Hof looks like it works well from the start That is right! |
|
|
|
Post by hof on Jan 5, 2022 3:15:57 GMT -8
Rocket brick oven. Wall temperature +20, furnace temperature +40, in the chimney +30 Celsius. Laid firewood, cardboard, match. Top ignition. I held the door open for a minute (at this time, it was a little smoke inside, while the cardboard was flaring up), then the flame went down into the riser and stopped smoking. The door can be kept open. I closed the door. After three or four minutes there were several puffs from the secondary air tube, and at this time the chimney temperature was only +40, then it began to burn as usual. That is all.
I have an idea that my chimney is leaking and it would be worthwhile to assemble it on a sealant. That is, in the pipe at the only joint of the stainless chimney within the oven, it can suck a little. Sort of automatic bypass) I measured it with a tape measure - somewhere at the level of the middle of the height of the oven.
In general, after 20 minutes the riser is orange, the temperature in the bell is more than 350 degrees at a distance of 30 cm under the bell dome, +70 in the chimney. Pine boards.
According to some indications, ISA could have done more of this oven. I insulated the ceiling with a thin layer of ceramic wool from the inside, so the ceiling can be ignored in the ISA calculation. It turns out ISA is 5.4 m2. The recommended value for this stove is 6.0 m2, and with a good chimney, 10% more is possible. That is, for 1 square meter it was possible to safely make more area. During the construction phase, I thought to lay a heating pipe, but I pissed off. Now I see that I thought correctly and that it was possible to use a heating pipe.
So in the second stove I need more ISA and calorifer tube.
|
|
|
|
Post by hof on Jan 6, 2022 22:31:00 GMT -8
Temperature in flue pipe reaches 120 deg C.
Stove was made for workshop. My work starts at 12:00 and finishes at 20:00. I do not have possibility to burn once in 12 hours.
If I make two burns, first on 12 o'clock, another - on 18 o'clock, temperature in chimney after second burn reaches 120 deg C. Is it means, that my stove have too small ISA?
|
|
|
|
Post by peterberg on Jan 7, 2022 9:50:44 GMT -8
No, certainly not. In an ideal situation, the stove should start up willingly, even from stone cold. I understand that's what it does. Of course there's a sliding scale from not enough heat extraction and far too much. Stretching this ideal situation a bit, it would be nice if the ISA expanded automatically while the heater is hotter.
However, since our heaters are build mostly out of ceramic and stone materials this is only possible using another (smallish or not) bell or bench that can be engaged when needed. By operating a valve or something. By enlarging the ISA of your heater without any form of bypass would mean you'll run the risk of loosing the good startup properties.
Wrestling a recalcitrant heater is something you don't want, believe me. Keep an eye on the chimney thermometer: it should be at minimum 60 ºC within 20 minutes starting from really cold. Failing that, there's a real risk of a chimney stall. When in the same situation the chimney temperature is 120 ºC or more, it's time to expand the ISA a bit.
Thinking about it: an automatically expanding ISA system based on laws of nature alone do sound magically to me...
|
|
|
|
Post by hof on Jan 7, 2022 10:29:08 GMT -8
Starting from realy cold stove never reaches 120 ºC in 20 minutes.
|
|
|
|
Post by skywalker on Jan 22, 2022 7:06:03 GMT -8
I just spotted a possible blooper in your drawings. You are planning to have the vertical exhaust channel in the shape of a chimney pipe inside the bell, yes? In that case either the pipe need to be insulated or build the channel out of bricks in one corner. Your last bell shape is smaller than earlier, please don't make it too small. You are building in a workshop, or so it looks like. Be sensible, place the core 50 cm from the floor so you won't have to bend over every time you want to fill the firebox. Gases will go down lower than the firebox anyway. It's done before, my red bell is an example, the workshop barrel tower and all three open systems published to date on the batchrocket website are working this way. , why should the chimney be insulated? We've build a couple of them just from stainless steel pipes, without insulation and using a t-piece pipe with a shutter as a bypass. I'm curious whats your motivation for this. Thanks in advance. |
|
serg247
Junior Member
The mountain can not be conquered, it can allow it to ascend...
Posts: 111 
|
Post by serg247 on Jan 22, 2022 7:09:07 GMT -8
Bare pipe thermal bypass.
|
|
|
|
Post by peterberg on Jan 22, 2022 7:17:26 GMT -8
In a bell, the highest temperature is at the top, isn't it? By placing a bare steel pipe in the bell, the top end of the pipe is heated quite a bit. By doing that, the exhaust gases coming from the bottom are heated up again in the top. The result of this is that starting up is quite smooth I'd say. At the expense of some efficiency of course.
|
|
