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Post by Orange on Feb 8, 2019 11:45:22 GMT -8
so you got 60ºC within 20 minutes, but the places where you have measured are not the main chimney?
if your chimney is in a wall, uninsulated it may need higher temps, from the pic it looks like condensate is running down the pipe.
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Post by sksshel on Feb 19, 2019 8:28:53 GMT -8
Updates:
- I've added insulation to the stove pipe - it seemed to help some - I've purchased a Moisture Meter to measure the moisture content of the wood. I split the wood and tested it immediately afterward. Most samples were well above 20% with some reaching 25%. This may be the heart of my burn issues. This would also cause the creosote on the window. - I've located some non-kiln dried oak lumber, cut 2x3" It burned very well resulting in nice opaque ram's horns. It's moisture content after cutting in pieces was 11%. - I will cease using my current firewood until next year. I have some rough sawn oak in my barn that I will cut up and use for the remainder of this winter.
My plan for next winter: - build a hydraulic wood splitter, targeting 3" x 3" pieces. With one pass, up to 10 pieces will be split from 1 log. (stay tuned for future posts on this topic) - build a directional cowl for the top of my chimney that flows with the wind. I had one day so far that the wind and barometric pressure combination caused blow-back.
73
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Post by coastalrocketeer on Feb 19, 2019 8:45:23 GMT -8
You may be able to improve the DSR’s combustion by adding a restriction, between entry and exhaust of the upper box, per peter’s latest experiments with the DSR2.
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Post by sksshel on Feb 19, 2019 10:03:39 GMT -8
You may be able to improve the DSR’s combustion by adding a restriction, between entry and exhaust of the upper box, per peter’s latest experiments with the DSR2. Good idea, thx.
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Post by coastalrocketeer on Feb 19, 2019 10:29:35 GMT -8
I think he is in the “fleshing it out” stage though, so you will likely have to do your own experimentation or wait for more results from his.
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Post by sksshel on Mar 25, 2019 9:17:27 GMT -8
I continue to experience sporadic instances of a poor chimney draw. The fire never quite gets going, with smoke sifting back into the house. It's happened at least 3 times over the winter. It appears to occur during periods of high barometric pressure (29.44 in one instance). The first instance included high winds (>15mph), but subsequent events have not (<6mph). It may have been a problem more frequently than that, but other issues, now resolved, could have masked it.
I have opened up and cleaned out: - the upper shoebox - the bell - the chimney There was little cleanout needed.
I did notice some debris had fallen into the secondary air tube. It was possibly 10-20% clogged from it. It has also been cleaned out now. This is clearly not good. I will watch this more carefully next winter.
I have been following Peter's latest tests with the DSR2. Before next winter, I plan to incorporate many, if not all, of his recommendations (when concluded). This is contingent upon being able to effectively cut the geopolymer. It has become quite hard and I'm not sure how easy it will be to cut.
Specifically I plan to: - enlarge the port between the firebox and the upper shoebox. - incorporate the new secondary air scheme
I think I can easily make these changes without completely reconstructing the "Rocket Engine".
Further research will be required to determine the feasibility of: - adding a restriction, between entry and exhaust of the upper box - adding a "Venturi" effect to the riser exit port from the top shoebox
These may be variations of the same effect, not sure. I am still a little unclear about what is required. With what I know, it could be a challenge to implement into an existing engine.
I also plan to fabricate a "Directional Cowl" for the top of my chimney. It should help provide a suction effect.
With that background, I'm not sure if that will overcome my chimney draw problem.
As a last resort, I could also add a bypass. I prefer not to go down that path, but if it's required, I will.
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Post by gadget on Mar 25, 2019 11:14:12 GMT -8
Is that stove pipe or regular snap together vent pipe? It looks like vent pipe. I would swap it out for some real stove pipe once you get everything where you want it. In the rare chance you get a chimney fire, that snap together seam will open up like a zipper. Yes, if your heater burns clean you will probably never have to worry about a chimney fire but why not just have that piece of mind.
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Post by josephcrawley on Mar 25, 2019 12:00:26 GMT -8
All those elbows between the stove and the chimney aren't doing it any favors on the draw. You could at least eliminate one of em and see if that helps.
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Post by patamos on Mar 30, 2019 13:12:14 GMT -8
There might also be value in loading your fuel with some tinder and kindling at the bottom, then heavier pieces mid level, then more tinder then kindling as a top layer. This will get things started well via primary air jet, but also the upper flame will make use of the gasses being pyrolized from the mid section as the burn ramps up. And ya, damp wood is always a fire killer...
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Post by sksshel on Apr 5, 2019 6:42:46 GMT -8
I've eliminated one of the elbows. That seemed to work for a few runs . . . until this morning. The heater has not been used for several days. I tried the suggestion from patamos to use kindling on the bottom and top. Eventually, it began to draw, but not as well as usual. Barametric Pressure: 29.11 Wind: 3 mph out of the South I'm including a pic of my chimney cowl. peterberg noted in another thread that a low chimney cowl could adversely affect the draw.
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Post by sksshel on Apr 5, 2019 6:47:14 GMT -8
Bottom line: I can get by without the heater for now. However, I want to make the necessary changes prior to next year to hopefully not have this draw issue. Will the latest changes from peterberg (noted above) do that?
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Post by Deleted on Apr 5, 2019 8:17:32 GMT -8
In the picture it looks as if the chimney is lower than the roof ridge.
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Post by Vortex on Apr 5, 2019 8:55:51 GMT -8
I've eliminated one of the elbows. That seemed to work for a few runs . . . until this morning. The heater has not been used for several days. I tried the suggestion from patamos to use kindling on the bottom and top. Eventually, it began to draw, but not as well as usual. Barametric Pressure: 29.11 Wind: 3 mph out of the South I'm including a pic of my chimney cowl. peterberg noted in another thread that a low chimney cowl could adversely affect the draw. Actually it was me that noticed that a chimney cowl with too small an opening adversely effected the burn. Yours looks about the same as the one that caused me problems, so if it's not too difficult try a burn without it on. Also I've noticed on my stove that if it hasn't been used for a few days and the mass has completely cooled down to room temperature, then it always takes longer before I can close the bypass damper. Cant imagine trying to run it without one like you are.
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Post by peterberg on Apr 5, 2019 9:51:49 GMT -8
I have to second Trevor in this. Your bell heater is cooled down completely and is sluggish to start. My heater is much like yours in that respect, starting with half a load and adding two or three pieces at the time until two complete batches are done usually resolves the problem in my case. It's like making tea the old fashioned way, one spoon of tea for each person and one for the pot.
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Post by sksshel on Apr 8, 2019 1:46:53 GMT -8
In the picture it looks as if the chimney is lower than the roof ridge. The angle of the pic is a little misleading. However, you did remind me that I technically am still out of spec. I need to add 1 more 1' section to the stack to be in compliance. I am adding that to my next year list. Thanks, @karl.
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