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Post by smarty on Jun 13, 2018 8:29:46 GMT -8
peterberg , For DSRs, should the bell top also be 12" above the top of the heat riser? In other words, is it consistent with your recommendations for the Batch Box Rocket? I'm currently planning on using a 16 inch riser on top of the DSR. Having looked through the stuff on the double shoe box rocket. (Thanks for the link by the way.) I’d say that the top shoebox IS the heat riser. Only it doesn’t rise so much as burn horizontally. So the bell could be mounted straight on top of the top shoe box I think? I’ve probably got it all wrong but that’s my impression. But it doesn’t need to go up an additional riser, although I don’t imagine it would do any harm.
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Post by sksshel on Jul 1, 2018 15:10:26 GMT -8
DSR exoskeleton is started. This will provide some structure to the overall heater and also provide a foundation for attaching doors.
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Post by smarty on Jul 1, 2018 22:30:29 GMT -8
Yes. Doors could do with a whole section of their own. I always struggle to figure out how to do it. Especially if there is another layer of non-refractory bricks around the core. Looks like you’re ahead of the game there.
How’s the geopolymer looking? What’s the hottest you’ve heated it up to?
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Post by sksshel on Jul 2, 2018 5:41:27 GMT -8
How’s the geopolymer looking? What’s the hottest you’ve heated it up to? I haven't fired it up yet. I hope to do that this coming Saturday.
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Post by sksshel on Jul 6, 2018 14:00:38 GMT -8
The exoskeleton is complete. I've added a small (5") riser on top of the top shoebox. I understand it's not necessary. I already had built all of the components so I went ahead. I've also added a "threshold". It's the piece of angle iron sitting on top of the p-channel. I have a few questions: - I assume all of the joints need to be airtight. This is a temporary setup in my barn. I will later after testing disassemble and reassemble in my house. What is the easiest effective material to use to temporarily fill the joints for the barn testing? - cob? - rockwool? - fireplace mortar caulk? - other???
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Post by peterberg on Jul 7, 2018 7:36:22 GMT -8
A mix of clay and sand is what I've been using for years. And the joins need to be airtight, yes. Remarks about the floor channel/threshold in the section "Experiments/results" about the DSR in general.
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Post by sksshel on Jul 7, 2018 8:26:04 GMT -8
The Threshold has been added and the p-channel cut to size. The threshold has a 2" gap between it and the door. I've also cut a "redneck solution" door. The door is only temporary for testing until I can construct the permanent door. Getting closer to the first test . . . I think.
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Post by sksshel on Jul 8, 2018 7:26:32 GMT -8
I fired up the DSR today with good results. It appeared to need more air than the recommended air inlet provided. In the pic you can see the temperature a the 5" above the shoebox top. 859 oF was the top temperature achieved. Shown in the pic is the amount of extra air that I gave it to reach that temp. It was about an extra 5 square inches in addition to the 6 square inches of the original air inlet. The batch box was a little over a quarter filled. When it reached its peak temp, there was no visible signs of smoke nor any smell of smoke. Thoughts?
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Post by sksshel on Jul 8, 2018 7:45:18 GMT -8
Here's a short video of the initial firing of my DSR.
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Post by peterberg on Jul 8, 2018 11:37:30 GMT -8
I fired up the DSR today with good results. It appeared to need more air than the recommended air inlet provided. Yes, that's common for such a combustion core without a riser to speak of and no chimney. Especially the chimney need to provide draw. The higher the velocity of the gases, the more air is sucked in so the inlet could be smaller. In general, the thing could be tuned by ear. When the roar is very audible more air doesn't change much from that point.
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Post by sksshel on Jul 23, 2018 5:40:49 GMT -8
The "Temporary" Bell is now nearly complete. It will be used for testing the air flow through the system. Once I'm satisfied that everything is working properly, I will move the DSR into my house and construct the permanent Bell. Question: How tall should I make the "Temporary" Chimney in order to get a proper draw?
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Post by sksshel on Jul 23, 2018 10:01:46 GMT -8
My plan for the "Permanent Bell" is as follows: - External Layer is made from 4" x 8" x 16" Cement Blocks - Trowel onto that a layer of thinset with "ridges" - see pic of test block below - Trowel over the top of that layer a layer of Geo-polymer (GP) The test block pictured below shows 3 different "ridge" depths. Once the sample dries, I will mix up some GP to trowel over the thinset. My thinking is that the thinset will provide structure and help the GP to adhere to the concrete blocks. The GP will also provide a heat shield to the concrete blocks. From left to right is a sample of 1/2", 1/4" and 1/8" ridges. My initial impression is that the 1/4" version will provide the proper balance between function and cost.
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Post by sksshel on Jul 25, 2018 7:16:51 GMT -8
Will a 6' tall "temporary" chimney be enough for a test of my DSR Bell set-up?
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Post by peterberg on Jul 25, 2018 9:45:41 GMT -8
Yes, definitely.
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Post by sksshel on Jul 29, 2018 11:19:02 GMT -8
Here's a pic of the same cement block that is covered in thin-set is now further covered in Geopolymer (GP). The big test is which trowel notch size provides the best adhesion. I will go with the smallest notch size with good adhesion. This will provide the most efficient use of materials.
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