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Post by pluton5 on Dec 9, 2011 12:52:31 GMT -8
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Post by pluton5 on Dec 9, 2011 13:17:24 GMT -8
tak jak pisa³em,nie wszystko jest OK,,bo,,
wymiennik ma troszkê za gêsto u³o¿one rury-p³omienice i trzeba go za czêsto czyœciæ,co 3-4 dni, ca³oœc jest przykryta blach¹ 6mm, która po zdjêciu umo¿liwia ³atwe czyszczenie,,ale on jest do podmiany.
Zrobi³em z tego co by³o pod rek¹ .
Mo¿e coœ o spalaniu napiszê i bardziej obrazowo - na pewno wiesz jakie s¹ deski z europalet, d³ugoœæ 120cm czyli oko³o 47 cali i szerokoœæ 12 czyli 5 cali i gruboœci 1 cal... jedna deska potrafi siê paliæ 45 do 55 minut. w tym uk³adzie jak na foto,,i utrzymuje temperaturê 40-50 stopni,a nawet wiêcej jak jest sucha.
nie ma swojego lasu,wiêc pali siê kazdy kawa³ek drewna
I co najwa¿niejsze ZERO emisji dymu, na co k³ad³em szczególny nacisk - PALENIE BEZ DYMU
as I wrote, not everything is OK, because,,
exchanger has a little too densely-arranged flue tubes, and had to be cleaned frequently, every 3-4 days, the whole is covered with 6mm plate, which after removal for easy cleaning, but it is the substitution.
I've done with what was at hand.
Maybe write something about the burning and more vividly - you know for sure what the boards of the pallets, length 120cm or approximately 47 inches and width 12 or 5 inches and a thickness of 1 inch ... a board is able to burn 45 to 55 minutes. in this system as the photo, and maintains a temperature of 40-50 degrees, and even more as it is dry.
does not have its forest, so every piece of burning wood
And most importantly ZERO emission of smoke, which I would put my emphasis - NO SMOKING SMOKE
pozdrawiam wszystkich
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Post by Donkey on Dec 10, 2011 17:41:42 GMT -8
Have you seen the Russian stove site by Kuznetsov?Placing the tubes inside a bell may solve the problem. Also see Peterberg's bell stove information. Here.Czy widziałeś Rosyjska strona piec przez Kuzniecowa?Umieszczenie rur wewnątrz dzwonu może rozwiązać problem. Zobacz także informacje Peterberg w piec dzwon. Tutaj |
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Post by pluton5 on Dec 15, 2011 8:39:27 GMT -8
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Post by panbreaux on Jan 14, 2012 4:49:42 GMT -8
her are a few of my experiments with wood fired water heating. the metal rocket in the pics has a coil that is too long and was a bit dangerous because the water boiled before it could rise out. i later made the coil about 28" and corrected the rise. it takes 1.5 hours for it to heat a 48 quart cooler full of water about 50 degrees if the coils are insulated. i'm presently tinkering with this rocket to make it into a thermal mass heater, since i didn't use it as the forge it was intended to be. short video of it burning> www.youtube.com/watch?v=VakZS-kxXUo&list=UUo5QBn5owO8X6ygfRDQVe6g&index=9&feature=plcp from my experience and calculations i'm starting to think it needs a slightly shorter length from the fire box to the chimney since it tends to blow back smoke in moderate wind and fire creeps up the sticks occasionally. the way i have it set up now is with a vertical feed brick fire box on the end. if i feed it directly into the tube the issues go away. the small enclosed heater is made from a recycled freon bottle, copper tubing and a bicycle sprocket. it will heat a 48 quart cooler 50 degrees in 30-45 minutes. it tends to by a hassle if you have to chop wood smaller to feed it and the ashes tend to pile up and choke it. the large enclosed heater is made from a water well storage tank, 7/8" copper, various fittings and a vw beetle wheel. it will heat 55 gallons 50 degrees in less than an hour. it will heat my 150 gallon stock tank in about 2-3 hours. i installed a check valve in this one and it really helps to keep the water flowing uphill if the water happens to steam up. sorry i don't remember my coil length for this one. i'm sure they would all produce faster heating if i lived in an area that had dry wood available. our humidity seldom goes below 80%, so all my wood is technically wet. link to pics of my water heaters> s328.photobucket.com/albums/l338/astrobreaux/Flutes/What%20Would%20Mad%20Max%20Do/#!cpZZ1QQtppZZ16 |
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Post by Deleted on Jan 14, 2012 6:28:14 GMT -8
Maybe you are overestimating this. "If a 50% wet log is burnt at high temperature, with good heat extraction from the exhaust gas leading to a 100°C exhaust temperature, about 5% of the energy of the log is wasted through evaporating and heating the water vapour." en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wood_dryingStored long enough protected from rain and with sufficient air flow: The Equilibrium moisture content at 0°C/32°F and 80% humidity is about 16%. At 0°C/32°F and 40% humidity it is still about 8%. Even at 0°C/32°F and 90% humidity the moisture will be just little above 20%. en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Equilibrium_moisture_content |
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Post by panbreaux on Jan 14, 2012 12:14:09 GMT -8
on all of them i'm thinking some of the issues that would give off the appearance of wet or green wood is the coils cooling the fire in the enclosed coil systems and the chimney in the case of the metal rocket.
a lot of my wood under the shed seems to go straight from green to rot. the ends season fine, but the middles turn into sponges. i built these water heaters to be wet wood tolerant. i was trying different designs to use scrap building materials to heat water for our disaster relief field kitchens and showers. the larger enclosed system works very well, but is a little smokey until a good pile of coals builds up around the bottom ring of the coil.
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Post by peterberg on Jan 14, 2012 13:30:56 GMT -8
"If a 50% wet log is burnt at high temperature, with good heat extraction from the exhaust gas leading to a 100°C exhaust temperature, about 5% of the energy of the log is wasted through evaporating and heating the water vapour." This may be true, but only under the condition of high temperature. It's not possible to reach this condition by burning wet logs, it will never heat up sufficiently. So in this case, in order to reach that high temps, one have to add other fuel. |
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Post by Deleted on Jan 15, 2012 3:13:38 GMT -8
You need to store your wood not to tight, with enough space between the sticks to allow
the air to flow freely around them.
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Post by Deleted on Jan 15, 2012 3:47:43 GMT -8
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Post by panbreaux on Jan 15, 2012 5:23:52 GMT -8
that's pretty much how i'm stacking my wood. the bugs think it's a candy store. i'm thinking i might build a solar wood dryer similar to one i saw in backwoods home magazine some years ago. i'm thinking the heat would not only dry out the wood better but also make life a bit harder for the beetles.
most of what i'm doing is experimenting to learn the ins and outs of rocket stoves and other off grid energy savers so i have a decent foundation when i move to a colder climate. here in south louisiana it isn't often one can justify running a wood burning heat source when the temp barely drops below freezing 10-20 days a year.
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Post by Deleted on Jan 15, 2012 6:24:59 GMT -8
Just wondering.
I have a house in a very humid tropical area at about 8° northern the equator.
The house is less than 100m from the sea and there is a huge lot of rain.
The average temperature is about 27°C.
In the night humidity reaches often 95%, on average about 80%.
Everything permeable to vapour but protected from rain becomes roughly 15% moisture.
Wood does not rot, but termites are a problem .
Wood storage may cause a snake problem. Another reason to keep wood away from the ground.
[/quote] i'm thinking i might build a solar wood dryer similar to one i saw in backwoods home magazine some years ago. i'm thinking the heat would not only dry out the wood better but also make life a bit harder for the beetles. [/quote]
You would need temperarures above 60°C to get the wood significantly drier at high humidity.
Good air circulation is far more important.
If you paint roof and walls black the heat of the sun may improve air circulation.
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Post by energyseeker on Jan 15, 2012 14:37:26 GMT -8
TPS,
If you are going to heat water to a boil, you might want to try a closed system with glycol. Glycol has a boiling point of almost 400 degrees f. You can store higher temperatures. the heat can be transfered into your boiler with simple copper or stainless tubing and pumps. I work in the field of Hydronics and glycol offers a great way to store alot of heat in a smaller storage tank. Plus water is very dangerous to store at those high temps.
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Post by olecatnaper on Feb 27, 2012 15:26:34 GMT -8
Yes I*'m new to this site.
I have built several waste shop oil burners.
The question came up on Woodheat.com several years back
about why the outdoor boilers were so smokey. Having read
the book on "Solid Fuel encyclopedia" I learned what makes a
fire smokey; as soon as I looked at one of those outdoor boilers
it was oblivious.
Any time you have fire on one side and water on the other. Water
robs or sucks away the heat necessary to get a clean burn.
The idea is to burn fire complete so it has burnt all the fuel,
before you pass it on to the heat exchanger.
Ole cat
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Post by jislizard on Apr 29, 2012 18:25:14 GMT -8
Is it more efficient to bring the cold water to the fire or the heat to the cold water?
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