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Post by grizbach on Dec 29, 2010 11:23:01 GMT -8
A fan blowing on a puddle evaporates. The exhaust can be way below 212f and still carry the water out. (think fog)
As long as the exhaust is hotter than outside, it should rise. CO is heavier than air, so the difference needs to be a bit more to push it out.
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Post by careinke on Dec 29, 2010 11:44:37 GMT -8
Perhaps my description was not the best.
The "pot" is a standard 9" clay pot with the hole in the bottom of it sealed. I placed this in my 8" round clean-out tube which is about 7" laterally from the barrel. The bottom of the pot is about 7" down the 10" deep clean-out tube. So the exhaust gas does not directly hit the bottom of the pot. Which is why I believe the temp was only 180 F. Also there was wet cob around the clean-out tube.
The 83 F temp was taken at the end of the chimney measuring the dark inside of the tube. My probe does not seem to give good results when I probe shiny metal, hence the measurement of the inside of the tube. Touching the tube seems to reinforce this reading.
There IS a lot of moisture that collects on the exhaust pipe. I am thinking about drilling a hole at the bottom of the upturn for the water to drain out. This bend is the lowest part of the system, so the water could drain easily.
Ned seems to imply that the heat riser can not actually push the exhaust out and something else is going on. I am not sure, but it works well. I actually do not even need the chimney part it is just more convenient.
I may make a video soo showing the temps when it is running.
Cliff
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Post by careinke on Dec 30, 2010 19:39:02 GMT -8
Today while working on the stove, my brother in law came up with a great idea. We installed a piece of re-bar in the J tube about 2" from the back of the feed, at the height of the burn tunnel. I load the wood in front of the re-bar towards the burn tunnel.
So far I would guess it has reduced the fire maintenance at least 50%. Also since putting the re-bar in, I have had no smoke back or fire creep. In effect I have an 8" x 2" air hole behind the fire wood. The wood can not fall away from the burn tunnel until it has burned down below the top of the burn tunnel, which seems to keep it nice and rockety. I'll keep it in this configuration for a few days but so far it seems to be a big improvement.
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Post by pinhead on Dec 30, 2010 21:55:15 GMT -8
Pics of the re-bar mod?
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Post by careinke on Dec 30, 2010 23:47:59 GMT -8
 This is looking down on the feed area. the burn tunnel is on the right. On the left are two removable fire bricks for easy cleaning. The re-bar is on the same elevation as the burn tunnel top. |
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hpmer
Full Member
Posts: 240
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Post by hpmer on Dec 31, 2010 11:35:25 GMT -8
I've done something similar, allowing a 2" air gap, except mine is down below, at the level of the support grate (think of it down below your removable fire bricks). I think your setup might work better in keeping a higher temp near the fire level. I'll adjust mine and see which way works better. Great idea!
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Post by careinke on Feb 6, 2011 11:11:22 GMT -8
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