|
|
Post by ronyon on Nov 19, 2013 20:18:22 GMT -8
|
|
|
|
Post by ronyon on Nov 19, 2013 21:08:25 GMT -8
Here is another biochar producing rocket. This video shows his design most clearly: How to make a small smoke free biochar retort
Hookway has gone much further: Hookway charcoal retort part 2
And further still: Hookway Charcoal Retort Development
I really like this guys design, despite the lack of loading/emptying during operation. I think the simpleness of design in the first video is what I like. I am in love with the idea of making charcoal as you heat, and having that charcoal as a soil amendment,fuel for a forge, or to run a vehicle gasifier on. In the paper presented in the third link,Hookway has gone further towards commercial development, which is great but of little interest to me. Still it is up to date (Engineers Without Borders UK on Aug 05, 2013) and who knows what else he will come up with.
|
|
|
|
Post by Daryl on Nov 20, 2013 6:25:01 GMT -8
As to the charcoal retort - From what I understand there shouldn't be any smoke. The holes near the top of the cylinder are meant to introduce oxygen for greater combustion. As soon as he mentioned smoke, I was not so sold on his design.
From my novice point of view, some individuals on the youtube videos tend to overcomplicate the builds. In addition, the barrel or something as sturdy is a better option than some of the stands presented in the videos.
BTW, I will be starting off with a small can gasifier this weekend when I have some light to work with.
|
|
|
|
Post by Daryl on Nov 20, 2013 7:36:30 GMT -8
Another rambling thought, there can be a disadvantage to the feed tunnel when combining the rocket and gasifier. The design and placement can/will change the gas flow and pressure of the burn. If the desire is for a more traditional rocket, then maybe the Jetstream designs would be a better way to go. Otherwise, a door could be added to a regular gasifier similar to the Kimberly.
|
|
|
|
Post by Donkey on Nov 20, 2013 10:27:32 GMT -8
I'm not convinced about the combo rocket/retort thing.. Making the heat riser into the retort is probably my biggest objection. For a rocket stove to burn cleanly, the heat riser MUST be well insulated. Don't take heat from the system until AFTER all of the fuel (smoke) is burnt.
So maybe putting the retort higher with a completely insulated heat riser section below (or something like that) might be the answer..
I use a big TLUD to make charcoal with while I cook on the flame, etc.
|
|
|
|
Post by doggy1969bc on Nov 20, 2013 11:37:57 GMT -8
D what if you would insulate the burntunnel and 15 cm of the heatriser ( 6 inch ) of the heatriser afther that the temps cool no ? so you can make charcole afther that no ?
|
|
|
|
Post by Donkey on Nov 20, 2013 21:05:52 GMT -8
Seems a bit short, but worth a try. Perhaps if there is a p-channel/trip wire combo in there and the base was well insulated. ??
Personally, I'd want to leave out the first foot (at least), my inclination would be more than that...
Karl, it could be that you are correct, perhaps the retort should begin right where internal temperatures begin dropping.
Testing this is gonna nail down the FACTS.
|
|
|
|
Post by ibrewhaha on Nov 24, 2013 16:34:19 GMT -8
I built a 1G (1 gallon) TLUD and it was interesting how long it would burn. I'm planning on building some 5G(5 gallon) TLUDs to heat an evaporator for maple syrup. I didn't want to have to be feeding it constantly as I would for a rocket stove and I want an even, smoke-free flame that I can stop when it is bed time. The TLUDs are also very light and easy to put away for the season. I was trying to find more info on the 5G TLUD other than just the video on Permies and found one description of using a 5 gallon can and putting a tube of corrogated steel around the inside. I can envision that holes would be in the bottom to line up with the corrogated bends and also throughout the rest of the bottom for the air through the material. The corrogated would end about an inch from the top and that would provide the pre-heated extra air for secondary combustion of the gases. It would then need a hole in the lid with a chimney, maybe a foot to eighteen inches tall. With a full batch, the guy on the permies video said it would burn for a couple hours. Just what I want! To stop it, you just take the TLUD off the supporting bricks or metal and put it on the dirt to smother the bottom and then you close up the top and it will choke out the fire that you can restart later. Easy peasey!
|
|
|
|
Post by Daryl on Nov 24, 2013 18:22:37 GMT -8
I built a 1G (1 gallon) TLUD and it was interesting how long it would burn. I'm planning on building some 5G(5 gallon) TLUDs to heat an evaporator for maple syrup. I didn't want to have to be feeding it constantly as I would for a rocket stove and I want an even, smoke-free flame that I can stop when it is bed time. The TLUDs are also very light and easy to put away for the season. I was trying to find more info on the 5G TLUD other than just the video on Permies and found one description of using a 5 gallon can and putting a tube of corrogated steel around the inside. I can envision that holes would be in the bottom to line up with the corrogated bends and also throughout the rest of the bottom for the air through the material. The corrogated would end about an inch from the top and that would provide the pre-heated extra air for secondary combustion of the gases. It would then need a hole in the lid with a chimney, maybe a foot to eighteen inches tall. With a full batch, the guy on the permies video said it would burn for a couple hours. Just what I want! To stop it, you just take the TLUD off the supporting bricks or metal and put it on the dirt to smother the bottom and then you close up the top and it will choke out the fire that you can restart later. Easy peasey! Check out youtube. There are a ton of TLUD videos. |
|
|
|
Post by woodburner on Dec 2, 2013 15:18:26 GMT -8
|
|
|
|
Post by ronyon on Dec 3, 2013 21:19:11 GMT -8
This a great photo set of a TLUD fired pizza oven. He incorporates a water coil into the dome, which seems like a mistake to me, better to put it around his exhaust. I found this while checking to see if others had already used stainless steel stock pots for TLUDs. I was inspired b this idea presented here of a 5 gallon TLUD used as a "cartridge". Looking to Youtube, 5 gallon TLUDs seemed rare. Turns out , finding a metal 5 gallon bucket ain't so easy. Thus, stockpots came to mind. His TLUD pizza oven is like a rocket exhausting into a bell. In fact, if the inlet for the ovens exhaust was lowered to right above oven floor, I think the oven would be a bell. Makes me wonder how wood gasses flavors food. Here is a link to a forum post with more photo links.
|
|
|
|
Post by woodburner on Dec 3, 2013 23:09:38 GMT -8
Duplicated
|
|
|
|
Post by Daryl on Dec 4, 2013 5:46:11 GMT -8
Things are crazy and I haven't had a chance to check out all of your links yet but I wanted to make a comment about the cartridges. That term is floating around the internet with increasing regularity. Cartridges are excellent ideas. The cartridges would work perfectly for outside cooking, especially for an oven or grill.
Another common idea is using the cartridges to heat up mass, similar to a rocket. I haven't seen it done yet but believe it is possible. Not sure for indoor use but definitely outdoor, which is where my interest lies. Heck, a clay bell is basically an oven.
|
|
|
|
Post by christinehaze on Dec 7, 2013 3:55:17 GMT -8
I haven't built such kind of stove, but would definitely love to. Can anyone tell me the procedure. But, heard that we have to be very careful as this stove can catch fire easily. This is the reason why we should use safe to store our important data and information.
|
|
|
|
Post by woodburner on Dec 7, 2013 8:52:53 GMT -8
No it's not. If a stove is likely to catch fire easily, use something else. It's no good with all your data intact, but no house to live in.
|
|
