Post by wiscojames on Dec 18, 2017 16:24:18 GMT -8
I have a couple of pieces of stove glass (roughly 12" wide by 9 inches tall, with an arch at the top) that I want to use for a future stove door. I'd like some pointers for a beginner to make a serviceable door with them.
If I wanted to ask my welder to fabricate a door, are there any features I want to keep in mind? I know will be building for an 8" or a 6" batchbox, so outside dimensions are predetermined. I plan to orient the glass vertically instead of horizontally. But what about air? Are low, rectangular sliders of the correct secondary air dimension sufficient? Better solutions?
Hinge hardware? I understand that the weight of a door like this, along with the expansion of the firebrick, means I need a steel frame to attach to. Is that correct?
Would others (Matt?) advocate building it with other materials?
I know I've left a lot of variables undefined, but I am looking for ideas at this point that might change my designs.
Post by matthewwalker on Dec 18, 2017 17:12:58 GMT -8
James, I'd recommend designing your door first, then cutting the glass you have to fit, rather than designing around an awkward shape. If you are going to have someone fab it for you, steel is a great choice.
I think their door should be lined with at least 1/2” ceramic fiber board (inside the firebox opening) to prevent warping as it’s a big 14”x16” door of 14 or 16g Steel, and adding door glass would be simple and straightforward. Mica glass would be exceptionally easy.
Post by etownandrew on Dec 31, 2017 13:21:13 GMT -8
I have been thinking about this and it occurred to me that the simplest idea would be a variation of what Donkey did recently. He created an angled front opening for the batch box and then formed a shelf so a door could be simply laid over the opening. No hardware required. Donkey used the glass top to an old cooking dish. However, the same idea would work with a piece of fire-resistant plate glass, metal, or ceramic flat plate. www.youtube.com/watch?v=aX5DTNNZ9sg drive.google.com/file/d/1uJszhmL13AS61l5akc9n9hcgFhzLjD6d/view?usp=sharing This assumes that you have not yet built your batch box or are able to add to it.
I was using pyrex oven dish lids as stove door windows in the late 1980's. They work OK but have a few issues you need to watch out for. Their max temp rating is 500*C, so they can break if they get too hot. I used to find they coped OK with the heat so long as the wood or flames did not touch the glass. The biggest problem was if they got touched by something cool when they were really hot, then they'd nearly always break. On average they usually lasted about a year. I used to look out for them in the second hand shops so I had a stack of spares. The older brands lasted longer than the new ones.
These are some good looking hinges. They sure would be easy to make, but if you could get free shipping then it would be better to buy them. I hope this isn't to far off topic, but after making several modifications to my stove and running it for a few days... I have a question. I built an air wash on both sides of my horizontal tunnel to preheat my primary air . The air flow tubes are 1" wide and 11" tall, they start at the front of each side of the stove and go to the riser and then come back before entering the front of the stove. They are really heating the air . What I have discovered is I only need a very small opening on each side to give enough primary air for my stove. Once my heat exchanger goes over 700 F, I restrict the primary air and the wood gasifies. what size openings are most guys running on their batch box heaters when they are in full operation?
for now I have the 1"X11" openings temporarily blocked off until I build a door.
Last Edit: Jan 12, 2018 19:16:08 GMT -8 by smokeout
wiscojames: I'm afraid you won't get a response to such a vague question - I suggest reading through some of the threads related to your questions before asking for an explanation. People will be very generous with their knowledge if your question is more specific.
Sept 18, 2018 4:48:00 GMT -8
daniel: in my experience as I am working now on something of that nature, I have thought of making a heat exchanger and distributing the heat through vents using a slower fan. Now after a few years I realize that mass heaters give out primarily radiant heat, for
Nov 30, 2018 12:48:38 GMT -8
coastalrocketeer: Anyone posting in this shout box... if you have something you want people to see and respond to, create a thread in the appropriate forum section... this is not the place...
Dec 16, 2018 18:10:49 GMT -8
vesuvius: High Temperature Glass options,
Jan 4, 2019 16:28:17 GMT -8
vesuvius: Do any of you have experience with using the glass from home oven doors on a rocket stove? I'd like to have a viewing port on my stove but don't want to fork out for new ceramic glass. Any thought as to whether it would take the heat of a rocket stove?
Jan 4, 2019 16:30:40 GMT -8
yaya: you dont need the blowair for that temp..
Jan 13, 2019 16:43:57 GMT -8
flybywire: Glass window from an old washing machine is designed to take high temps. Cheap solution to your need.
Jan 27, 2019 0:10:58 GMT -8
coastalrocketeer: Anyone posting in this shout box... if you have something you want people to see and respond to, create a thread in the appropriate forum section... this is not the place to have a discussion... it is for short announcements
Feb 7, 2019 0:11:23 GMT -8
coastalrocketeer: you won’t likely get replies to questions here, and it is not a spot that makes holding an ongoing discussion possible...
Feb 7, 2019 0:12:22 GMT -8
TexasGonzo: Sooooo glad I found this site! Its always rewarding to find such a super group of folks! To any and all, feel free to PM me anytime. Thanks for having me!
Mar 11, 2019 18:56:41 GMT -8
jlmtech: GADGET: CONSIDER USING A JET PUMP INSTEAD OF A BLOWER FAN TO INDUCE DRAFT; NO CLOGGING.
Mar 26, 2019 8:19:28 GMT -8
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mannytheseacow: michaelegan: download AutoCAD student version for free... import .SKP
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