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Post by Orange on Feb 1, 2018 3:58:47 GMT -8
the space is only 15m2 but the ISA is around 6m2.
for BB I would have to check if the chimney draw is adequate for a short riser stove.
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Post by josephcrawley on Feb 1, 2018 6:15:20 GMT -8
the space is only 15m2 but the ISA is around 6m2. for BB I would have to check if the chimney draw is adequate for a short riser stove. Why would you need to use a short riser? Looking at you test j configuration you have plenty of riser. I should add I built my stove during the whole short riser craze with a short one and it does not work very well. I have since built 4 batch box stoves to Peters specs and they work great. |
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Post by satamax on Feb 1, 2018 13:27:57 GMT -8
I should say, i like j's for the ease of feeding.
I absolutely love the batch for the ease of tending.
My batch shoots flammes out the riser when it overfuels.
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manU
New Member
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Post by manU on Feb 1, 2018 16:55:07 GMT -8
I like the easy and intuitive fire tending of L rockets for cooking. Easy power output regulation. I use modified L, with the feed tube at about 30* angle. Really like it.
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Post by Orange on Feb 3, 2018 4:11:41 GMT -8
Why would you need to use a short riser? Looking at you test j configuration you have plenty of riser. I should add I built my stove during the whole short riser craze with a short one and it does not work very well. I have since built 4 batch box stoves to Peters specs and they work great. well older people don't like firebox being on the ground level, it has to be elevated around 40-50cm from the ground. So to keep the cooktop on the same height riser has to be shorter, or bent, or riserless etc. |
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Post by josephcrawley on Feb 3, 2018 7:17:56 GMT -8
I think you may be packing to many functions into this stove design. Perhaps you should switch to the double shoebox core. It is experimental but if you are going to make changes to the batch box core that are unproven then you have nothing to loose.
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Post by Orange on Feb 4, 2018 12:15:35 GMT -8
this time I was feeding it with smaller wood, temps were good and the flame went to about half the riser. unfortunately chamotte pipes started cracking from the bottom to the top.  it was suprising as usually these pipes can handle normal fuel. So I guess the core runs well and the pipe are bad quality, so the crack will act as an expansion joint  |
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Post by satamax on Feb 5, 2018 2:56:29 GMT -8
These always crack. I think due to thickness and monolithic construction.
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Post by Vortex on Feb 5, 2018 5:29:06 GMT -8
Could also be the cold air on the outside making too great a temperature differential, the inside is trying to expand more than the outside and they break. Vertical cracks are what I would expect in that situation.
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Post by peterberg on Feb 5, 2018 5:35:24 GMT -8
When clad with insulation they tend to crack all the same.
Just one slit from top to bottom and they won't crack further. Making an artificial crack as it were so they won't build up tension anymore.
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Post by satamax on Feb 5, 2018 6:20:03 GMT -8
Peter, i split the ones in the workshop Heather, but the still cracked nevertheless.
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Post by peterberg on Feb 5, 2018 6:50:34 GMT -8
Too bad, in that case it isn't a viable alternative to firebricks.
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Post by satamax on Feb 5, 2018 9:25:25 GMT -8
Well i like these. I have had good results with the first ones in the green machine. Poured a mix of mapegrout and vermiculite around. This one hasn't moved at all.
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Post by Orange on Mar 11, 2018 11:02:20 GMT -8
the pipes are still fine with the crack, it is the expansion joint now.
I'll just wrap them up in aluminium foil and pour the perlite, expanded clay or ash around.
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Post by Orange on Apr 8, 2018 6:50:50 GMT -8
some condensation under the bricks although they are dry and nobody lives in that place:  |
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