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Post by sksshel on Jan 1, 2018 8:27:33 GMT -8
It is a very compact J-tube. It follows the 1-2-4 ratios for construction. ie: feed tube to burn tube to heat riser. I put the J-Tube on a raised platform and utilize a single 55-gallon barrel for the bell.
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Post by sksshel on Jan 1, 2018 8:36:15 GMT -8
Low Temperature Geopolymer Setting (LTGS) Recipe and Procedure 100g kaolin clay with 38% alumina 50ml of 5% vinegar (.25g essentially activating with 2.5 % acetic acid) 10g KOH 37g sodium water glass powder 330g very fine slag sand 14g portland cement Makes roughly 10 cubic inches or 1/3rd of a liter Make LTGS Binder - Take 10g of total kaolin (1/10th of total amount) and activate with 2.5% by weight acetic acid or .2 oz (.25g) of 5% vinegar - Add all KOH 10g - Add in waterglass 37g - Let rest for an hour or two (possibly longer) until it starts to get thick but NOT HARD Final Mixture - Mix all remaining materials together (90g of kaolin, 2.25g of vinegar, 330g very fine slag sand, 15g portland cement) - Add just enough water until mixture is just liquid enough to pour into mold - vibrate on table until settled - Let stand until solid Curing Process - You must cure the product before use in a rocket stove - Store at room temperature (72 degrees F) for 2 weeks - Store at I’ve made a public spreadsheet that facilitates the materials calculations in various units of measure. You can copy it for your own use. You will not be able to change my spreadsheet. You must copy and make your own. My sources of materials: Kaolin Clay shop.brackers.com/Pioneer-Kaolin-P23.aspx $16/50#s Vinegar Big Lots $2/gal KOH Ebay $14.95 for 2#s Waterglass Amazon $9.90 for 4#s Slag sand www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/black-diamond-fine-blasting-abrasives $7.99/50#s Portland Cement $9.97 for 92#s www.homedepot.com/p/Ash-Grove-92-6-lb-Portland-Cement-100-92-AG/202075616 |
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Post by Deleted on Jan 1, 2018 10:29:03 GMT -8
Thanks for sharing.
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Post by travis on Jan 1, 2018 16:16:50 GMT -8
Great info guys! Thanks a lot for sharing. I have a couple questions.
1) are there simple replacements for these storebought materials? I ask because I would like to use things like wood ash or other things that are usually just considered waste by many people. I don't have easy access to these things without international shipping.
2) Your calculations for a bell look good, but it sounds like you are using duct for the second part of the "bell" which is no longer a true bell. Your three turns will affect these calculations because they add resistance, but it may not be enough to stop your system. Maybe just make it a little temperamental on certain days. Anybody else with more experience?
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Post by sksshel on Jan 7, 2018 6:20:29 GMT -8
Great info guys! Thanks a lot for sharing. I have a couple questions. 1) are there simple replacements for these storebought materials? I ask because I would like to use things like wood ash or other things that are usually just considered waste by many people. I don't have easy access to these things without international shipping. 2) Your calculations for a bell look good, but it sounds like you are using duct for the second part of the "bell" which is no longer a true bell. Your three turns will affect these calculations because they add resistance, but it may not be enough to stop your system. Maybe just make it a little temperamental on certain days. Anybody else with more experience? 1) I've seen many variations out there. Many people have tried many things. However, once you introduce new materials, you enter into a trial and error phase. What I've tried to do is document a repeatable process with widely available (USA) and inexpensive components. I've seen posts that were experimenting with local, naturally available materials. It can be done, it just takes time and effort. 2) Thanks for your thoughts. You are correct, I am using a "Bell" in conjunction with a "Heat Exchange" bench. After my original post, I adjusted downward the length of the heat exchange to 4.5'. This is in addition to the 3 turns. I think this brings my total ISA in line with the specs published by Peter van den Berg. My goal is to install a system that consistently draws. I see a lot of RMHs around that have a heat exchange bench much larger than the one I have planned. Are they experiencing drawing problems? Is that why they implement "Bypass" vents? I've also seen chimney top "wind diverters" (for lack of a better term) that help overcome drawing issues. |
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Post by sksshel on Jan 7, 2018 6:36:59 GMT -8
I am considering embedding chicken wire into the LTGS panels. I am concerned about cracks in the panels. I want to prevent a structural collapse from occurring. My thinking is that cracks can be discovered and repaired during routine inspections. If I don't have the wire reinforcement a small crack could wind up causing a big problem.
One other adjustment I am planning, I will be using High Heat Ceramic Glass for the top of the Batch Box. I made this change partly due to potential structural issues with the LTGS spanning the top and partly for aesthetic reasons. This is similar to one of Peter van den Berg's original Batch Box designs.
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Post by Deleted on Jan 7, 2018 9:49:06 GMT -8
A few percent of mineral fibers would be much better than chicken wire.
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Post by sksshel on Jan 7, 2018 10:38:44 GMT -8
What type of mineral fibers? Could you give me some examples? I would need to retest the mix, wouldn't I?
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Post by Deleted on Jan 7, 2018 10:53:40 GMT -8
I have used rock wool and a bit thicker basalt fibers.
Rock wool makes the mixture not noticeable more viscous, but basalt fiber do.
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Post by sksshel on Jan 7, 2018 12:13:55 GMT -8
I have used rock wool and a bit thicker basalt fibers. Rock wool makes the mixture not noticeable more viscous, but basalt fiber do. Is the Rock Wool you are referring to the "blown insulation" variety? If so, how do you prepare it? If not, can you point me to a U.S. source? This seems similar in concept to fillers used in fiberglass resins. I have extra Talc available. Would that do a similar job? There are several others on this web site: uscomposites.com/fillers.html Would any of them work as well? |
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Post by sksshel on Jan 7, 2018 12:16:06 GMT -8
A few percent of mineral fibers would be much better than chicken wire. What percent variations should I try? |
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Post by pigbuttons on Jan 7, 2018 13:03:54 GMT -8
I think this is one of the kinds of fibers karl was referring to for mineral fibers: Ceramic fiber online
I think in a few of karl's earlier threads he posted that a few percent will be enough. And the mix shouldn't need much adjustment because they are not reactive, though you may need to add a little water to make up for the added bulk. |
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Post by Deleted on Jan 7, 2018 15:21:11 GMT -8
It is loose rock wool of light grey for stuff insulation.
Looks like the one costalrocketer has used in his video.
I cut it with a scissor to 5-10mm.
Some scientists have used carbon fiber for refractory geopolymer composites.
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Post by coastalrocketeer on Jan 7, 2018 16:01:57 GMT -8
This big bundle of rockwool/mineral wool/basalt fiber insulation was $20 at the Home Depot. I found that the stuff with an R-value rating was cheaper than the "sound and fire" barrier type, probably because they sell a lot more of it, as usually the one that has a "rated insulation value" would have a higher market value. There may be some other difference, but the fact that I had $30 to my name at that moment and this was $20, made the decision easy.   |
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Post by coastalrocketeer on Jan 7, 2018 16:03:16 GMT -8
Another market that sells rock wool is indoor gardening stores, although I think it is probably more expensive in that market, and the indoor garden centers in my area don't carry it, as most growing "dangerous" medicine indoors around here are more inclined toward organic, probiotic, biodynamic soil based growing, which I find preferable when choosing "dangerous" medicine ;-)
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