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Post by gbfisher on Sept 28, 2017 14:48:07 GMT -8
As you have a lot of refractory clay: Tubes or half tubes can be easily formed with clay slabs. Even a fire box could be formed with slabs. Search youtube for: Clay slab round vase Clay slab hump mold Clay slab slump mold If the clay slabs are prepared with a LTGS binder sintering will start at low temperatures. Could also be used to make beveled bricks without cutting. The result is comparable to fired bricks. Thanks Karl. I will check this out. Gary ps for Peter, I see you have had to edit my quotes. Am I doing something wrong? I don't want to cause you extra work. Gary
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Post by peterberg on Sept 28, 2017 23:42:15 GMT -8
ps for Peter, I see you have had to edit my quotes. Am I doing something wrong? I don't want to cause you extra work. The quoted text and the answer were all between the quote and unquote marks, which is confusing so I fixed it. Your last post is all correct in this respect by the way.
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Post by gbfisher on Oct 1, 2017 8:48:33 GMT -8
Hello again.
One other question that comes to mind, is the question of insulation.
I understand it is very important, especially around the riser.
I will be building my firebox out of the heavy mass firebricks, not the light ones which are insulated, so do I need to wrap the sides and bottom with superwool, or some other insulation?
If I build my riser out of the same brick, be it square or cut to make an octagon shape, I'm assuming I absolutely have to wrap this riser in superwool. Correct?
If I use Pinheads idea of the ceramic fiber blanket in a pipe, then I don't need additional insulation around the outside, Although I remember he said he used one inch on the inside, and more on the outside, but if I used 2 inch on the inside, then that might be enough?
I I cast a tube out of castable cement, Or purchased a ceramic tube, I would need to insulate around the outside. If I cast one out of perlite and fireclay, would that be considered insulated?
How does the insulated riser and/or firebox affect the function of the rocket stove? I thought I read that somewhere, but can't remember the principle. Does it have something to do with the system reaching a high temperature quickly?
Thanks again for for all your patience and information. I'm sure you have explained this over and over. Gary
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Post by keithturtle on Oct 1, 2017 22:02:50 GMT -8
Gary, the idea is to keep that riser as hot as possible, to reburn the gasses. Once the hot high-velocity stream exits the top of the riser, you can go about the business of extracting heat thru the bell, drum or whatever the structure you have used. I have seen a design that uses a steel sleeve that retains perlite around the riser at least an inch thick. Since that steel is not in contact with the combustion process, it survives.
I have not built that design, so I cannot speak to the efficacy or longevity; just passing along someone else's successful application
Turtle
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Post by gbfisher on Oct 2, 2017 16:23:24 GMT -8
Thanks Keith. I get it now.
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Post by pinhead on Oct 3, 2017 6:10:42 GMT -8
Hello again. One other question that comes to mind, is the question of insulation. I understand it is very important, especially around the riser. I will be building my firebox out of the heavy mass firebricks, not the light ones which are insulated, so do I need to wrap the sides and bottom with superwool, or some other insulation?Gary You do not want to use heavy brick inside the heat riser. You can get away with it in the firebox, though. It makes it a little more challenging to start and get roaring - even when insulated around the firebox - but in the riser the high mass will destroy the efficiency of the stove.
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Post by gbfisher on Oct 4, 2017 14:45:49 GMT -8
Thanks pinhead for the advice. I'm glad I didn't make a mistake. I believe I will use your idea. I appreciate everyone's help Gary
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Post by briank on Oct 15, 2017 16:02:12 GMT -8
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Post by gbfisher on Oct 21, 2017 15:12:57 GMT -8
I saw this thread, and called them, actually trying to get an 8 in ID riser. They said they would have to get a new mold made and would get back to me on the price, but they never did. The mold they have is for a 6 in ID riser, as I'm sure you are aware. Thanks though Gary
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Post by briank on Oct 21, 2017 17:14:13 GMT -8
OK thanks Gary. I ordered another batch of the 6" risers, When I pick them up I'll ask the about 8" ones. What length are you looking for?
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