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Post by pinhead on Oct 13, 2017 8:31:39 GMT -8
I'm curious what is the temperature of ceramic board/wool that is 1 inch or less thick? I mean the temperature on the outside of ceramic firebox and riser. Does it make sense to add more insulation (rockwool, ytong, perlite..)? IMHO, it can never hurt; the better-insulated the riser, the better-performing the stove will be, all else being equal. Whether it's absolutely necessary or not, I can't say definitively. |
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Post by DCish on Oct 13, 2017 17:04:06 GMT -8
Having run a bunch of batches through a dense firebrick batch box with lots of different afterburner configurations, I can say that insulation makes all the difference. I had to fire it pretty hard to get things hot enough to burn good and clean. A well-insulated afterburner, even on a dense brick box, got clean lots quicker.
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Post by rafael on Nov 23, 2017 8:43:00 GMT -8
Hi there,
Im almost ready to build my first Rocket stove.
Originally I was going to use bricks and follow a design by Peter van der Berg from the amazing Batchrocket.eu website.
But then i found about ceramic fiber board.
I found a supplier that has this material in 2 different qualities:
1430 C / 2600 F
1260 C/ 2300F
Higher temperature one is more expensive.
I wonder if 1260 would be enough or should i spend some more cash and buy 1430?
They have 1" and 2". Would 1" be enough or should i go for 2"?
many thanks!
Rafael
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Post by matthewwalker on Nov 23, 2017 10:55:48 GMT -8
I've found the lower density, lower rated board to be just fine for my needs, but it does vary from vendor to vendor. They will be soft until fired, when the board should harden a bit. If you can, get a sample of both and stick them in a fire then evaluate for yourself.
The reason I'm not entirely sure is my low density temperature option is in line with your high temperature option. I wouldn't worry about the temperatures, but the higher rated board is usually more durable. You might be fine with the less expensive option, but if you can evaluate both for yourself, do it.
I purchase 1" for my builds. 2" would be great, but more expensive and not necessary in all locations. It's nice to build with 1" as you can capture and support where you would have to dado or rabbet thicker panels.
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Post by rafael on Nov 23, 2017 13:52:27 GMT -8
Thanks Matt!
I can ask the supplier if he can mail me some samples, but I'm afraid that wont hardly happen.
Where I live (northern Spain) it's not possible to source materials and i have to buy them from some other place in Spain that it's quite far.
So i guess i will go with the higher spec material, and get the 1" board.
I was watching your video (again!) and its really encouraging.
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Post by esbjornaneer on Nov 27, 2017 6:23:37 GMT -8
ok  is there any other material that is light, strong and heat resistant? and in full ceramic box, p-channel is much more insulated than in firebrick one. Any concern that the secondary air isn't preheated enough? How about the ceramic/tempered glass that Matt uses on his cooking range? I saw Matt and Patmos talking about being able to cut it...? And cutting it was also mentioned by Peter in talking about the new shoebox cooker he is working on. Can anyone say how they were cut and if it is a reliable method of cutting? (The three professional glass cutters I have talked with say it will shatter after it has been tempered.) If it can be cut to the right sizes for V-shaped floor and wall pannels it can be a lining for batch boxes too. Yes? Thanks Matt! I can ask the supplier if he can mail me some samples, but I'm afraid that wont hardly happen. Where I live (northern Spain) it's not possible to source materials and i have to buy them from some other place in Spain that it's quite far. So i guess i will go with the higher spec material, and get the 1" board. I was watching your video (again!) and its really encouraging. Hola Rafael, I am in the south of Spain (Granada) and am having the same issues with insulation as you. Are you willing to share where you have sourced the CFB? My first version of batch box I used rockwool pannels for insulation and because it was even thinner I put them overlapping when I built it thicker. So if you go with the 1" thickness and double it up I would think you get better insulation value, at least in the corners, than if you used single layer of 2". Great video Matt is the stove what heats the sauna or just for the shower room? Esbjorn |
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Post by matthewwalker on Nov 27, 2017 6:46:57 GMT -8
Thanks Esbjorn, the stove is heating that little shower room, which I hope to insulate and seal into a proper sauna over time. I'm waiting for another load of my cedar to come back from my neighbor's mill, but hopefully I will get it insulated and finished out before the winter is up.
As for the glass, it is not tempered but rather ceramic glass. The stove top glass is different than some others, it seems to have small wire mesh or something inside of it, and has a texture on the bottom. I have had success cutting it with a diamond blade on a wet saw. It's a bit chippy on the cuts, but it does cut.
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Post by esbjornaneer on Nov 27, 2017 8:10:37 GMT -8
As for the glass, it is not tempered but rather ceramic glass. The stove top glass is different than some others, it seems to have small wire mesh or something inside of it, and has a texture on the bottom. I have had success cutting it with a diamond blade on a wet saw. It's a bit chippy on the cuts, but it does cut. Do you mean that all ceramic glass that comes from old ceramic hobs have the mesh and texture? Or only the ones you use on your ranges? Is the wet saw the only method that has worked for you to cut with or the only you have tried? And is it a saw that goes back and forth? Chips would not matter for the suggestion I made in my previous post would it? Do you think it would be worth lining the inside of the fire box like I suggested? Thanks for you experience and thoughts, Esbjorn |
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Post by matthewwalker on Nov 27, 2017 8:22:07 GMT -8
All the stove tops I've found have been of the kind I describe above. There may not be actual mesh in there, but they are rough on the bottom side. I've only tried the wet saw. It's a brick saw, like a sliding miter circular saw with a water spray. The bed slides under the saw. Like this one:  No, I have not found the chips to matter, the edges are usually captured in mortar anyway. I don't see a need to line the firebox, but....I don't think it would hurt performance much either. I think that's one you will have to try for yourself, with and without, and see what you prefer. |
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Post by rafael on Nov 28, 2017 1:40:39 GMT -8
Hi Esbjorn, After lots of research, i think i will buy the stuff from these guys: www.anper.net/es/categoria/7/construccion-de-hornos/73/aislantes-ladrillos-fibrasThere are other places but they don't sell small quantities, only full pallets!, because their business is more oriented to industrial facilities and not to small customers. ANPER in Rubi (Barcelona), they sell stuff for pottery, so you can buy small quantities. Shipping its a little expensive but a little cheaper than ordering the stuff from UK or Italy. And they seem to have in stock all the stuff. Anyway, you can called them and ask. They are friendly and know about the stuff they are selling. There is another place with webshop called VITCAS. tienda.vitcas.es/Even if they have a Spanish phone number, and you can call them there, they are based in UK. they have lots of stuff! I asked them about shipping costs, but they haven't replied me yet |
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Post by esbjornaneer on Nov 28, 2017 6:05:13 GMT -8
Thank you Rafael, very good source. Please let me know if Vitcas comes back with a cheaper total price.
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Post by woodrascal on Nov 28, 2017 6:15:03 GMT -8
Over here in the UK Victas have quite a good reputation for products and customer service.
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Post by rafael on Dec 1, 2017 3:51:14 GMT -8
Finally today I got the shipping costs budget from VITCAS.
And it's expensively insane! More expensive that the board itself.
I called ANPER and they can get the 1480 C ceramic fiber board, even if they don't have in stock.
They don't have it in stock because not many people asks about it.
I don't know how much or how long it takes.
I will post this information again when I know.
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Post by Vortex on Dec 1, 2017 6:55:15 GMT -8
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Post by Lucian on Dec 20, 2017 6:20:09 GMT -8
ok is there any other material that is light, strong and heat resistant? and in full ceramic box, p-channel is much more insulated than in firebrick one. Any concern that the secondary air isn't preheated enough? How about "plastering" the ceramic firebox with a thin layer, 3 to 6mm (1/8" to 1/4") of refractory mortar? It could give it abrasion resistance with very little mass added. |
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is there any other material that is light, strong and heat resistant? 
