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Post by peterberg on May 26, 2017 1:35:29 GMT -8
That gravity inlet step is brilliant! Those triangular pieces on both sides will prevent burning pieces falling out as well. I'll think it over to use your method myself too.
Those tavelloni keeps the pressure off the refractory slabs, you don't need concrete on top and using clay/sand would keep the top accessible too... Good solution, hope you will be able to fetch those.
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dvawolk
Full Member
DSR2 125mm open system (actual project)
Posts: 271
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Post by dvawolk on May 26, 2017 5:57:06 GMT -8
That gravity inlet step is brilliant! Those triangular pieces on both sides will prevent burning pieces falling out as well. I'll think it over to use your method myself too. Those tavelloni keeps the pressure off the refractory slabs, you don't need concrete on top and using clay/sand would keep the top accessible too... Good solution, hope you will be able to fetch those. I hope that it will work as good as on paper... I found a local dealer for those tavelloni clay longbricks... They are around 4 eur per piece (100x4x25cm). Because of the ease of work i would say that this is acceptable... I am thinking of filling them with clay+sand mix... But i think that it is too much work for too little effect. I think i would rather add 2cm thicker clay plaster over them... Other than that, nothing new for now.. Best Regards, Klemen |
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dvawolk
Full Member
DSR2 125mm open system (actual project)
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Post by dvawolk on May 27, 2017 2:10:47 GMT -8
I made a probe of the air inlet with some mdf and hard paper. I am quite satisfied with this system. But if the steps would be adjustable, it would really be great....
I do have something on my mind to make it adjustable but the idea is not ripe yet :-)
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grga
Junior Member
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Post by grga on May 30, 2017 1:15:17 GMT -8
I am wondering why such air-inlet with tilt is better than left-right sliding air inlet. The latter can be made easily and adjusted in whatever position and they seems more air-tight than the tilt design.
So is the reason better stove operation, maybe additional protection from glowing embers falling out,… ?
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dvawolk
Full Member
DSR2 125mm open system (actual project)
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Post by dvawolk on May 30, 2017 1:51:41 GMT -8
I have sliding inlet on my stove. I dont really like it:
It is not tight, because you need a gap so that it can slide. When it is closed I hear metal noises because there is always a draft through its gaps.
When you slide it the door paint becomes scratched ( but this I dont think that would be such a problem with unpainted inox).
And personally I like the tilt apoearance more... :-) and I will put 2mm sealing rope on it so that it will stay quiet and tight when closed...
I did occasionaly experience embers falling out but I dont have air diverter inside...
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grga
Junior Member
Posts: 76
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Post by grga on May 30, 2017 3:33:43 GMT -8
To be more air tight you should make some closing mechanism to compress the inlet (and sealing rope) to the frame - similarly as the main door has closing mechanism. Without that I don’t think it will be more airtight as the sliding version.
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Post by peterberg on May 30, 2017 4:29:00 GMT -8
Mine is using the same pivoting mechanism. The valve closes quite good because there's a contraweight to hold it in place. No whistling through any tiny gaps during the two years or so after installation.
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dvawolk
Full Member
DSR2 125mm open system (actual project)
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Post by dvawolk on May 31, 2017 4:33:28 GMT -8
I think that it should be quite good closing because of the counterweight.
Below is the video that shows how to make adjustable steps.
Above I use aluminium round bar. If used with steel bar one would need more force to open/close the door.
The pie sides are made from 2mm stainless steel and have M5 threads in holes...
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Post by matthewwalker on May 31, 2017 10:42:42 GMT -8
Very nice design Klemen!
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dvawolk
Full Member
DSR2 125mm open system (actual project)
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Post by dvawolk on May 31, 2017 12:02:46 GMT -8
Thanks. I think this design falls under steampunk. ;-) |
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Ralf
New Member
Posts: 42
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Post by Ralf on Jun 2, 2017 21:14:59 GMT -8
Hi Klemen,
I also think your adjustable air inlet design is brilliant.
A question that comes to my mind is:
Will there be enough space behind the door to contain the sides of the "valve" flap when it is fully closed ?
After all there´s the bricks of the floor right where these sides will go, or do I get that wrong ?
Good luck with your build, looks awesome !
Ralf
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Post by pyrophile on Jun 3, 2017 13:56:22 GMT -8
Hi, On the door for ashes and primary air of a cookstove , I used the first rectangular system ( in aluminium, the second one, nicer, round, in stainless steel but 10 cm in diameter was too big). Both were tight, even the cheapest one! (on pictures, metal is brass, more expensive...)  ![]()  It is possible that, compared to Klemen's and Peter's system, the air might be not as well injected downward, that is toward the floor channel... Benoit Edit 1 : Thank you Satamax! Edit 2 : The round one is a bad idea here as it would not fit being too big, sorry! |
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Post by pigbuttons on Jun 3, 2017 20:07:40 GMT -8
Great idea for the gravity latch on the door, dvawolk. The "stopping curves" would commonly be referred to as "notches" or "detents", the "bar" would be the "dog" or the "locator"( notch goes with dog, detent goes with locator). One idea for greater adjustment possibilities is to make the bar thinner, decrease the size of the notches and then increase the number of the notches. If you included some way to lift the bar independently from the door forcing it up in at least one direction, then you could use wedge shaped notches where one side of the wedge was a radial line from the center to the edge, and a flat bar with a 45 degree cut on one side so that you could get maybe a dozen or so adjustment points. Then either opening or closing could be just by pushing the door, and by lifting the bar it could go in the other direction. Think of the pie shaped piece like a 60 degree section of a gear wheel in an old fashioned wind up clock.
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Post by satamax on Jun 3, 2017 21:25:05 GMT -8
Pyrophile, just one detail.
Inox is stainless steel in English.
And Laiton is brass. Otherwise, english speakers might not understand.
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dvawolk
Full Member
DSR2 125mm open system (actual project)
Posts: 271
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Post by dvawolk on Jun 3, 2017 22:45:57 GMT -8
Hi Klemen, I also think your adjustable air inlet design is brilliant. A question that comes to my mind is: Will there be enough space behind the door to contain the sides of the "valve" flap when it is fully closed ? After all there´s the bricks of the floor right where these sides will go, or do I get that wrong ? Good luck with your build, looks awesome ! Ralf Hi, Ralph. The sides have enough plače, I checked :-) before the Batchbox bricks start, there is an outer layer of bricks which is enough in width. |
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