The guy in grasse can do the brick at 0.6 euro each, but Im not sure if I can use thoses for the riser/batch box. At leroy merlin they sell refratory brick for 1,3 euro Regular brick is 0.6 prosiref is a bit pricey but if it's the way to go!
I will go with double skin. I think I could put a copper piping between the two skin for water heating.
Do the second bell in normal brick. Or better, normal outside, firebricks on the inside. But better count what you need before. I think the big lot of bricks from the guy in Oppede is a good deal if you can get it half price. You can always resell the rest after. The 1.3 euros bricks from lepoy perlin, What is it's max temp? May be good for the bell, but for the core. Hard dense firebrick for the firebox. Insulating firebricks for the heat riser for example. You need 40 IFB for a 6 incher.
For the walls; as i have drawn it, not to scale, you need 360 firebricks approximately. Let's say 500 for the whole build, between cuts, unexpected last minute modifications etc. That's 650, with pelinpinpin firebricks. Just to put things into perspective. Plus the slab above. Don't know if you have a tipper, but it might be worth getting the ones in Oppede. Except that the lot is way too big. There's more than 1000 bricks in there. And you would be in for several trips.
I have spend many hours trying to find a solution for the heat riser :/ Saw the perlite/alumine/water glass mix but it's pricey Insulated fire brick are not available where I live. If I order online the shipping is really high if I use insulated cement, after I have to insulate it using superwool. And again it's not cheap :/
I will give a call on monday to prosiref (not siporex) to see if they can do some alternative shipping method
Tho, i have to reinforce the left wall siporex (air entrained concrete) left bare, has cracked badly.
I would do things another way now. Use insulating firebrick if i can afford it. In a previous build, i have used those bare, and it works wonders. Just make sure you can replace the V at the bottom. Or use either siporex or insulating firebrick, with a lining of splits. But there's a detail, i would cut the V ifb, so the splits for the sides can rest vertically on them. So it makes life easier when replacing. And cut the V's lining splits so they touch the side splits and hold them. It's all details you get with experience. But that's life.
Another detail, if i would reuse AAC (siporex) for the firebox again, i think boxing it with sheet metal, and adding some perlite or vermiculite would do good at insulating more and holding it together.
Well, chimney, as system size, a 150mm riser, 150MM chimney i would say. How much surface do you have to heat?
How's the house's insulation?
Well, if you insist in having the firebox on the floor, make it stick out, and do a top loading. You put a glass door on the front, with air intake, but that one is used just for cleanup and inspection. You put a steel slab with two hinges on the top, so you can load from the top. Trust me on that one, kneeling on the floor for loading is crap!
You say 110cm high. For a 150 system, that's a very low, if you do the right height riser. Plus, in this case, doing a sidewinder. I don't know how it would work reducing the height of the riser. You could increase the length of the riser, doing a broken riser.
Another thing i have just imagined for you. If you want to do a top load batch, you could make the heat riser out of insulating firebricks, and integrate it in the bell's front wall. So you have more room for the top load door.
thanks Karl, but I read throught a couple of your topic, but english is not my first language and I'm not chemist :/ if you had a basic recipy or a youtube video to follow the steps, it would be awesome
Yhomega, in my opinion, you don't need 30cm above. If your ISA is below average. And your chimney has a good draft. 15 is aplenty. I have even done less on a 6 incher. I thought in your sketchup, the top was at 110cm.
One thing you haven't spoken about. The vane in the chimney, so you don't loose the heat, when the fire is out. Peter says, stall the air movement with the air intake. But sometimes, it's not possible.
martinm: any one here with info \ experience with heat (from a mass heater) distribution with ducts throughout two storey house ?
Sept 8, 2018 22:58:52 GMT -8
padica: Good morning, this is a wonderful subject, please someone can help me with the theme of double and triple combustion, how it is achieved, theory and design, thank you
Sept 15, 2018 7:13:40 GMT -8
wiscojames: I'm afraid you won't get a response to such a vague question - I suggest reading through some of the threads related to your questions before asking for an explanation. People will be very generous with their knowledge if your question is more specific.
Sept 18, 2018 4:48:00 GMT -8
daniel: in my experience as I am working now on something of that nature, I have thought of making a heat exchanger and distributing the heat through vents using a slower fan. Now after a few years I realize that mass heaters give out primarily radiant heat, for
Nov 30, 2018 12:48:38 GMT -8
coastalrocketeer: Anyone posting in this shout box... if you have something you want people to see and respond to, create a thread in the appropriate forum section... this is not the place...
Dec 16, 2018 18:10:49 GMT -8
vesuvius: High Temperature Glass options,
Jan 4, 2019 16:28:17 GMT -8
vesuvius: Do any of you have experience with using the glass from home oven doors on a rocket stove? I'd like to have a viewing port on my stove but don't want to fork out for new ceramic glass. Any thought as to whether it would take the heat of a rocket stove?
Jan 4, 2019 16:30:40 GMT -8
yaya: you dont need the blowair for that temp..
Jan 13, 2019 16:43:57 GMT -8
flybywire: Glass window from an old washing machine is designed to take high temps. Cheap solution to your need.
Jan 27, 2019 0:10:58 GMT -8
coastalrocketeer: Anyone posting in this shout box... if you have something you want people to see and respond to, create a thread in the appropriate forum section... this is not the place to have a discussion... it is for short announcements
Feb 7, 2019 0:11:23 GMT -8
coastalrocketeer: you won’t likely get replies to questions here, and it is not a spot that makes holding an ongoing discussion possible...
Feb 7, 2019 0:12:22 GMT -8
TexasGonzo: Sooooo glad I found this site! Its always rewarding to find such a super group of folks! To any and all, feel free to PM me anytime. Thanks for having me!
Mar 11, 2019 18:56:41 GMT -8
jlmtech: GADGET: CONSIDER USING A JET PUMP INSTEAD OF A BLOWER FAN TO INDUCE DRAFT; NO CLOGGING.
Mar 26, 2019 8:19:28 GMT -8
michaelegan: i am unable to open the sketchup files on my mac. I used sketchup a few years back but apparently the company now requires a subscription. does anyone have any advice/instructions on how to use the program or how to view pictures without spending money?
Aug 20, 2019 18:41:48 GMT -8
mannytheseacow: michaelegan: download AutoCAD student version for free... import .SKP
Aug 23, 2019 13:33:44 GMT -8
topbaza: hi everyone, been searching all over net and this is were i need to be i think!!
Sept 28, 2019 6:16:25 GMT -8
anounaki: Hi, why I cant upload photos when I make new tread to this forum?
Feb 28, 2020 2:09:40 GMT -8
ahansen: photos under 1 mb not possible?
Jun 4, 2020 0:09:21 GMT -8