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Post by firewatcher on Oct 3, 2016 4:15:01 GMT -8
I've been searching for another location to purchase coal slag. I found a place which is fairly close by, and am planning on calling them today to see if they sell smaller quantities (100 pounds or so). The product manufacturer is black beauty abrasives (www.blackbeautyabrasives.com)
Particle sizes are:
3.5 - 4.8 Mils (Medium)
2.0 - 3.8 Mils (Fine)
1.0 - 2-6 Mils (extra fine)
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Post by Deleted on Oct 3, 2016 4:29:36 GMT -8
A mil is a thousandth of an inch — .001 inch.
The meaning of fine or extra fine differs a lot from manufacturer to manufacturer.
1.0 - 2-6 Mils is #30-60 (extra fine for Black Beauty)
0.5 - 1.5 Mil is #50-150 (extra fine for Blackblast).
For Black Diamond extra fine is #40-80.
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Post by firewatcher on Oct 3, 2016 4:35:52 GMT -8
A mil is a thousandth of an inch — .001 inch. The meaning of fine or extra fine differs a lot from manufacturer to manufacturer. 1.0 - 2-6 Mils is #30-60 (extra fine for Black Beauty) 0.5 - 1.5 Mil is #50-150 (extra fine for Blackblast). For Black Diamond extra fine is #40-80. So the general rule applies...the smaller the particle size the better off you are? Do you think that the 1.0 - 2.6 mils would work well? Or should I continue to search for the 0.5 - 1.5 mil size?
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Post by Deleted on Oct 3, 2016 4:43:42 GMT -8
In another thread you wrote: "The material that i have is marked as a 30-60"
1.0 - 2.6 mils is #30-60 is what you allready have.
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Post by firewatcher on Oct 3, 2016 4:49:30 GMT -8
Yes, you're right...sorry for the dumb question.
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Post by firewatcher on Oct 3, 2016 5:56:36 GMT -8
@karl,
Do you have any ideas as to how to avoid the "separation" in my next LTGS brick or what could have caused it in the first place? I have the next batch of binder activating since last night and I was planning on molding it this evening some time.
I'll share my mix composition in a minute (have to look it up). I was thinking of maybe increasing the amount of slag?
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Post by Deleted on Oct 3, 2016 6:24:19 GMT -8
My mixture was relatively wet, thus very plastic.
I have beaten the mold from below and stamped from above.
Did not got such problems.
Another way is very low liquid,
just enough to make it sticky but still crumbly.
A mixture like this can be easily stamped into a mold.
Needs to be carefully and thoroughly mixed.
Some people in the forum have used such sticky mixtures
of perlite, vermiculite, waterglass and clay for risers.
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Post by firewatcher on Oct 3, 2016 7:18:56 GMT -8
As mentioned, here is the mix (10% binder) that I used for my first LTGS brick:
100 g fire clay 5% acid activated (5g citric acid)
1800 g fire clay 2.5% acid activated (45g citric acid)
100 g lye
600 g slag (30%)
When blended, it was "dry" but still able to be formed by hand...maybe the consistancy of a somewhat wet modeling clay. I was able to remove the mold almost immediately.
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Post by Deleted on Oct 3, 2016 7:26:26 GMT -8
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Post by firewatcher on Oct 3, 2016 7:30:46 GMT -8
Do you think that vibrating would work as well?
Matt Walker had mentioned in a thread i think that he used a recipricating saw without the blade.
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Post by Deleted on Oct 3, 2016 7:35:47 GMT -8
Vibrating it used for more liquid pastes.
Forceful throwing works great for kneadable stuff.
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Post by firewatcher on Oct 3, 2016 8:07:06 GMT -8
I watched the video that you linked. I definitely would not have been able to do that with my last mix, as it was far too dry. The video gives me a good reference as to how pliable to make the mix this time around.
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Post by firewatcher on Oct 3, 2016 15:20:28 GMT -8
So, here it goes...my second attempt at an LTGS brick...  I attempted to level the brick with a wet piece of plywood to keep the thickness uniform. Now to wait while drying... |
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Post by wiscojames on Oct 3, 2016 16:45:29 GMT -8
Ah, the waiting. Not my strong suit. Really liking these threads, guys. Thanks for sharing the trials and results!
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Post by brocken on Oct 3, 2016 17:10:20 GMT -8
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