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Post by independentenergy on Oct 28, 2016 6:20:38 GMT -8
yes sure my system is 150 mm, with more than 7 m2 ISA ,bypass.
In continuous use I 70/80 degrees which for me is a very good result.
I noticed that the draft is still present, I think this is possible thanks to the smoke steel barrel isolated. measuring the fumes are at 70 degrees by measuring the flue wall I have 130 degrees obtained with the bypass open and maintained insulation of the chimney.
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Post by peterberg on Oct 28, 2016 6:38:16 GMT -8
What is meant by stack temperature is measured in the heart of the chimney pipe or masonry chimney within 1 or 2 meter after where it is leaving the heater itself. The pipe wall is quite a bit lower in temperature, the core of the vertical exhaust is probably closer to 100º C in your case. Still very, very good provided there's no visible smoke.
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Post by independentenergy on Oct 28, 2016 7:08:50 GMT -8
Peter is hard to express myself in English. . 🙊
The measure is just output from the heater.
measured at the center, the inner wall of the chimney, tested with laser pyrometer, is 110/130 degrees because when you work with an open bypass heated the mass of the chimney isolated, which I think might help keep the draw or at least avoid losing temperature
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Post by coisinger on Nov 1, 2016 6:56:27 GMT -8
This is MASSIVE and VERY IMPRESSIVE.
The one thing that I am curious about is the amount of area in the first bell. I know there are minimums required to maintain air flow, but how much is too much?
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Post by peterberg on Nov 1, 2016 8:12:35 GMT -8
Honestly, I don't know what the limits of a bell are, volume-wise. The only aspect which can be too large is the Internal Surface Area as this is the heat extractor. But a low and wide bell will work as well as long as there is enough space above the riser. So, a heater in the shape of a pyramid or a large cone would work equally well. This type of shape provides head room and a lot of ISA, a classic beehive shape would be ideal, for example...
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Post by coisinger on Nov 2, 2016 3:42:34 GMT -8
Hmmm, so an elliptical shaped bell would be the ideal shape for the heat exchanger? More so like a wood drum, as opposed to a steel drum, with a (for the lack of a better term) ponch in the middle like most of us...  |
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Nov 2, 2016 13:04:58 GMT -8
awesome job .... magical atmosphere in a context entirely of wood ....
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Post by coisinger on Nov 3, 2016 6:26:51 GMT -8
My other observation is the heat riser tube in relation to the top of the first bell. I'm referencing the image on page 2, aprox 10:40 AM, where the riser seems very low. I'm curious about the distance from the top of the tube and the top of the bell. From what I have read here and elsewhere it's generally accepted that that distance needs to be in the 2-4" range.
This looks much larger. Will this have an effect on the performance of the stove?
Note, I am not picking or pulling anything apart, this is an incredible built, but it does serve as a reference where I can get some questions answered. Thanks!
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Post by peterberg on Nov 3, 2016 7:02:16 GMT -8
The explanation is simple really. For a 6" or 8" J-tube, the minimum recommended top gap is in the range of 2" to 3". In reality, there is no practical upper limit. The only effect is that the top of the bell, barrel or whatever won't be that freaking hot so it won't be suitable to cook on when the top gap is larger.
Having said that, this is a batch box rocket, not a J-tube, and as such quite another animal. This thing is in reality very sensitive to small top gaps. Due to its reliance on high gas velocity it is very picky about any restriction at all. The very reason why a batch rocket and a bell is such a good combination since the latter one is champion of low resistence.
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Nov 3, 2016 11:04:30 GMT -8
Alex
how many kilograms can be burned in the fireplace?
how long the fire to burn everything?
thank you
AG filwifi
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Post by coisinger on Nov 4, 2016 8:34:52 GMT -8
Excellent explaination Peter, thank you!
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Post by AlexHarpin on Nov 4, 2016 14:43:04 GMT -8
Alex how many kilograms can be burned in the fireplace? how long the fire to burn everything? thank you AG filwifi I filled the box with 35 lbs (15,9kg) of hard wood in 16" sections. I could fit a little bit more weight in 18/20" section. It burned everything in about an hour before turning into the coal phase. |
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jrl
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Post by jrl on Dec 7, 2016 10:47:06 GMT -8
This build is absolutely amazing! Job well done. Absolutely beautiful construction!
Out of curiosity... you have a single wall bell made of brick and mortar. Do you have any issues at startup with smoke pouring out from the cracks of the bricks or through the mortar? Maybe I missed it, but do you have a bypass in place for starting up cold? |
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Post by AlexHarpin on Dec 8, 2016 11:34:27 GMT -8
This build is absolutely amazing! Job well done. Absolutely beautiful construction!
Out of curiosity... you have a single wall bell made of brick and mortar. Do you have any issues at startup with smoke pouring out from the cracks of the bricks or through the mortar? Maybe I missed it, but do you have a bypass in place for starting up cold? Thank you! Its a double skin construction. No leak at all ! No bypass either. I prime the stack with a heater at the begining of the season, that's it. |
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Post by doughboydan32 on Dec 30, 2016 17:10:50 GMT -8
wow shes a big somebitch
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