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Post by esbjornaneer on Jan 9, 2016 4:51:11 GMT -8
Spent some time outside near the chimney last night. (Well actually, splitting more firewood and getting the laudry in.) And even though the visible exhausts only trailed about a foot/30cm from the chimney I could smell what I guess were hydro-carbons...? How would one be able to know the efficiency of combustion without a Testo?
How would I be able to alter the stove to get more complete combustion? How much temp difference would be achieved in the gasses if the combustion were more complete?
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Post by peterberg on Jan 9, 2016 7:39:51 GMT -8
How would one be able to know the efficiency of combustion without a Testo? How would I be able to alter the stove to get more complete combustion? How much temp difference would be achieved in the gasses if the combustion were more complete? Actually, you are very close to the point of needing a combustion analizer like a Testo when you want to know what is going on. But... your heater is performing quite good if I go by your annotations. What you see is water vapor, dissolving in the cold air. And what you are able to smell is something like wet charcoal or dirty socks like. This is already very, very good and even not achievable during the whole of the burn. When there's only a faint smell which reminds you of a laundry you are achieving complete combustion. When you are already so near that state of affairs there's nothing to gain anymore in practise. |
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Post by esbjornaneer on Jan 12, 2016 1:22:46 GMT -8
Hi all, I think I am getting on for the right dryness of wood and burn intensity now. I have taken to heart what Klemen does with his wood in preparation for burning (see second half of his video) but I remove it all from the FB before lighting it by the port and reloading it. Reason for saying this: I just noticed the cast iron hob originating from a Rayburn Royal range I have used bending/warping from the heat of the flames that lick the length of it (after exiting the HR). I saw the flames between the hob and the fire rope it rests on while cold! There were no issues with fumes/CO (I have a CO meter/alarm) entering the room but not quite the ideal state of affairs. It seems the hob has returned the the original shape again this morning. What would you do in this situation? The hob has heat extraction flanges covering half the length of it. I have placed the flanges over the HR and it was the half _without_ flanges that bent up. Would there be any difference if I turned it around? Should I see if I can hunt down a ceramic top or would that behave simmilarly? Thanks for your feedback, Esbjorn |
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lawry
Junior Member
Posts: 113 
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Post by lawry on Jan 27, 2016 9:02:33 GMT -8
Hi esbjorn from what I have seen the ovens in cook stoves need to be touched by the flue gasses on most sides.
Maybe you can remove the insulation below the oven so that the heat from the FB can assist the oven.
Another idea is to design an insulated cap for your cook top (for when you are not cooking). To reduce the heat loss through top. Then the heat will go towards the oven.
I love your stove design a lot.
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Post by esbjornaneer on May 17, 2016 7:50:36 GMT -8
I had an explosion at the end of February due to not getting the chimney to heat enough to vent the smoke build-up.
Am in the process to redesign and will ask for your ideas when I have something down on paper.
Though I see why one should separate functions to separate burners I will have an other go at building one that is combined. I will have a chimney/bell by-pass this time!
More later, E
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Post by wurzeli on Feb 12, 2017 3:07:34 GMT -8
.......... The issue with the oven is that it does not get hot enough for what we want. I had a brick walled oven in the last stove and was recommended (not from this forum) that a metal box oven would be better at getting the heat into the oven than a brick walled oven. If it were brick it would be more even in temp but I think it would be lower than what I have reached if the box stays in the same location. Does anyone have any experience/idea of how much more the oven would heat if the gasses pass on 4 sides (both sides, top & bottom) of the metal oven box compared to only on the top and right side with the bottom and left side insulated with 2cm rock wool? There would be a 4-8cm flue gap over the oven and 11-7cm flue gap below if I move the oven. Most of the hot flue gases will pass above the oven and the hottest part of it is always on the upper side of the flue: The gases touching the outer surface of the top of your oven is the lower part of the flue and colder. You might add a "tripwire" on top of the channel where the flue gases enter the space above the oven to create some turbulence forcing the hottest part of the gases down to touch the top surface of your oven, but IMO this is not enough. I think to achieve really higher temperatures in the oven you will need to pass hot flue gases below the oven. |
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