Post by esbjornaneer on Jan 9, 2016 4:51:11 GMT -8
Spent some time outside near the chimney last night. (Well actually, splitting more firewood and getting the laudry in.) And even though the visible exhausts only trailed about a foot/30cm from the chimney I could smell what I guess were hydro-carbons...? How would one be able to know the efficiency of combustion without a Testo?
How would I be able to alter the stove to get more complete combustion? How much temp difference would be achieved in the gasses if the combustion were more complete?
How would one be able to know the efficiency of combustion without a Testo? How would I be able to alter the stove to get more complete combustion? How much temp difference would be achieved in the gasses if the combustion were more complete?
Actually, you are very close to the point of needing a combustion analizer like a Testo when you want to know what is going on. But... your heater is performing quite good if I go by your annotations. What you see is water vapor, dissolving in the cold air. And what you are able to smell is something like wet charcoal or dirty socks like. This is already very, very good and even not achievable during the whole of the burn. When there's only a faint smell which reminds you of a laundry you are achieving complete combustion. When you are already so near that state of affairs there's nothing to gain anymore in practise.
Post by esbjornaneer on Jan 12, 2016 1:22:46 GMT -8
Hi all, I think I am getting on for the right dryness of wood and burn intensity now. I have taken to heart what Klemen does with his wood in preparation for burning (see second half of his video) but I remove it all from the FB before lighting it by the port and reloading it.
Reason for saying this: I just noticed the cast iron hob originating from a Rayburn Royal range I have used bending/warping from the heat of the flames that lick the length of it (after exiting the HR). I saw the flames between the hob and the fire rope it rests on while cold! There were no issues with fumes/CO (I have a CO meter/alarm) entering the room but not quite the ideal state of affairs. It seems the hob has returned the the original shape again this morning.
What would you do in this situation? The hob has heat extraction flanges covering half the length of it. I have placed the flanges over the HR and it was the half _without_ flanges that bent up. Would there be any difference if I turned it around? Should I see if I can hunt down a ceramic top or would that behave simmilarly? Thanks for your feedback, Esbjorn
Hi esbjorn from what I have seen the ovens in cook stoves need to be touched by the flue gasses on most sides. Maybe you can remove the insulation below the oven so that the heat from the FB can assist the oven.
Another idea is to design an insulated cap for your cook top (for when you are not cooking). To reduce the heat loss through top. Then the heat will go towards the oven.
Post by esbjornaneer on May 17, 2016 7:50:36 GMT -8
I had an explosion at the end of February due to not getting the chimney to heat enough to vent the smoke build-up. Am in the process to redesign and will ask for your ideas when I have something down on paper.
Though I see why one should separate functions to separate burners I will have an other go at building one that is combined. I will have a chimney/bell by-pass this time!
.......... The issue with the oven is that it does not get hot enough for what we want. I had a brick walled oven in the last stove and was recommended (not from this forum) that a metal box oven would be better at getting the heat into the oven than a brick walled oven. If it were brick it would be more even in temp but I think it would be lower than what I have reached if the box stays in the same location. Does anyone have any experience/idea of how much more the oven would heat if the gasses pass on 4 sides (both sides, top & bottom) of the metal oven box compared to only on the top and right side with the bottom and left side insulated with 2cm rock wool? There would be a 4-8cm flue gap over the oven and 11-7cm flue gap below if I move the oven.
Most of the hot flue gases will pass above the oven and the hottest part of it is always on the upper side of the flue: The gases touching the outer surface of the top of your oven is the lower part of the flue and colder.
You might add a "tripwire" on top of the channel where the flue gases enter the space above the oven to create some turbulence forcing the hottest part of the gases down to touch the top surface of your oven, but IMO this is not enough.
I think to achieve really higher temperatures in the oven you will need to pass hot flue gases below the oven.
martinm: any one here with info \ experience with heat (from a mass heater) distribution with ducts throughout two storey house ?
Sept 8, 2018 22:58:52 GMT -8
padica: Good morning, this is a wonderful subject, please someone can help me with the theme of double and triple combustion, how it is achieved, theory and design, thank you
Sept 15, 2018 7:13:40 GMT -8
wiscojames: I'm afraid you won't get a response to such a vague question - I suggest reading through some of the threads related to your questions before asking for an explanation. People will be very generous with their knowledge if your question is more specific.
Sept 18, 2018 4:48:00 GMT -8
daniel: in my experience as I am working now on something of that nature, I have thought of making a heat exchanger and distributing the heat through vents using a slower fan. Now after a few years I realize that mass heaters give out primarily radiant heat, for
Nov 30, 2018 12:48:38 GMT -8
coastalrocketeer: Anyone posting in this shout box... if you have something you want people to see and respond to, create a thread in the appropriate forum section... this is not the place...
Dec 16, 2018 18:10:49 GMT -8
vesuvius: High Temperature Glass options,
Jan 4, 2019 16:28:17 GMT -8
vesuvius: Do any of you have experience with using the glass from home oven doors on a rocket stove? I'd like to have a viewing port on my stove but don't want to fork out for new ceramic glass. Any thought as to whether it would take the heat of a rocket stove?
Jan 4, 2019 16:30:40 GMT -8
yaya: you dont need the blowair for that temp..
Jan 13, 2019 16:43:57 GMT -8
flybywire: Glass window from an old washing machine is designed to take high temps. Cheap solution to your need.
Jan 27, 2019 0:10:58 GMT -8
coastalrocketeer: Anyone posting in this shout box... if you have something you want people to see and respond to, create a thread in the appropriate forum section... this is not the place to have a discussion... it is for short announcements
Feb 7, 2019 0:11:23 GMT -8
coastalrocketeer: you won’t likely get replies to questions here, and it is not a spot that makes holding an ongoing discussion possible...
Feb 7, 2019 0:12:22 GMT -8
TexasGonzo: Sooooo glad I found this site! Its always rewarding to find such a super group of folks! To any and all, feel free to PM me anytime. Thanks for having me!
Mar 11, 2019 18:56:41 GMT -8
jlmtech: GADGET: CONSIDER USING A JET PUMP INSTEAD OF A BLOWER FAN TO INDUCE DRAFT; NO CLOGGING.
Mar 26, 2019 8:19:28 GMT -8
michaelegan: i am unable to open the sketchup files on my mac. I used sketchup a few years back but apparently the company now requires a subscription. does anyone have any advice/instructions on how to use the program or how to view pictures without spending money?
Aug 20, 2019 18:41:48 GMT -8
mannytheseacow: michaelegan: download AutoCAD student version for free... import .SKP
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topbaza: hi everyone, been searching all over net and this is were i need to be i think!!
Sept 28, 2019 6:16:25 GMT -8
anounaki: Hi, why I cant upload photos when I make new tread to this forum?
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ahansen: photos under 1 mb not possible?
Jun 4, 2020 0:09:21 GMT -8