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Post by AlexHarpin on Nov 1, 2016 6:52:02 GMT -8
Nice work Morticcio! Well done!
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Post by peterberg on Nov 1, 2016 8:18:28 GMT -8
Congrats, Morti! The WAF did it's thing, obviously.
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Post by ericaus on Nov 2, 2016 11:41:00 GMT -8
Great job Morticcio. That quake would have been rather scary!! It would have been real disappointing to end up with cracks in your new construction.
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Nov 2, 2016 12:54:42 GMT -8
Congratulations great job ...
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Post by coisinger on Dec 7, 2016 4:25:26 GMT -8
I like this design. Simple, elegent.
If you could provide some details: Riser height, internal surface area and some initial burn test data if you have any (observations of operations at least) it would be very helpful!
Great looking stove!
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Post by independentenergy on Dec 9, 2016 4:56:08 GMT -8
Andy ,what kind of binder you used to fix the bricks?
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morticcio
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Post by morticcio on Sept 13, 2017 3:41:36 GMT -8
Hi all
I managed to get round to doing some more work on the stove back in August. It was very hot and my first attempt at rendering so not a perfect combination. Nevertheless I'm very pleased with the finish - even got a smile from my wife - quickly followed by a comment about painting it white so it isn't so conspicuous!
I've done two coats so far each approx. 8-10mm thick. I'm back in Italy in October so can fire it up and check for cracks!! Here are some photos...
  
  
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morticcio
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"The problem with internet quotes is that you can't always depend on their accuracy" - Aristotle
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Post by morticcio on Sept 13, 2017 3:43:49 GMT -8
Andy ,what kind of binder you used to fix the bricks? Fireclay, sand and ash. |
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Post by Jura on Sept 13, 2017 5:06:01 GMT -8
Congrats on the finish. I'm leading two builds simultaneously and both await capping. In what way you capped the stove? Have you got more pis on the way the doors were installed? I'm asking cause I was told the doors without a strong stainless steel "collar" have a tendency to get lose and move after some usage period. I'm having only one photo and not fully descriptive of the way install the "collar" to the doors.  My build is not that neat looking as yours as I bought a chamotte mortar from a local producer and... it turned out to be of dark grey colour (black while wet) :-( Are you going to leave inside the belts holding the firebox insulation ? |
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Post by independentenergy on Sept 13, 2017 14:07:49 GMT -8
Andy ,what kind of binder you used to fix the bricks? Fireclay, sand and ash. in what percentage if I can ask? |
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morticcio
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"The problem with internet quotes is that you can't always depend on their accuracy" - Aristotle
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Post by morticcio on Sept 14, 2017 21:53:48 GMT -8
Thank you :-)
I'm leading two builds simultaneously and both await capping. In what way you capped the stove?
I capped the stove using two cast refractory slabs, each 60mm thick. These sit on the inside ledge made by the course (or layer) of bricks facing the wrong way (in the photos they are not plastered). I have since been told the correct term for this is a corbel - 'a projection jutting out from a wall to support a structure above it'. The corbel in this case is inside so cannot be seen.
The dimensions of the slabs were not a tight fit when sitting on the 'ledge', approx. 5-10mm smaller than the inner face of the bricks. This was to allow for expansion and to get fingers out! Slabs were sat dry on a strip of 5mm ceramic paper. The ceramic paper was also between the vertical joint of the two halves. The ceramic paper sealed it sufficiently but I added mortar mix around the edges too.
Some of the bricks did tip when we lowered the slabs on to the ledge. This was because the clay/sand/ash mix doesn't 'stick' the bricks together like cement and there wasn't any support under them. With hindsight I should've started the corbel lower down and gradually stepped the projection out to make it structurally stronger. I had used a very crude corbel so it deserved to fail(ish)!
Have you got more pis on the way the doors were installed?
The pics are on previous page. I will try to explain my method...
I fixed the door frame directly to the firebrick using masonry screws, two screws on each side. I laid a strip of 5mm ceramic paper along the bottom of the frame, drilled the holes for the bottom and lightly screwed in the fixings to stop it moving. It was then self supporting. Next I dry stacked bricks around the frame adding 10mm spacers for the mortar mix. I was able to mark the frame for the side holes, remove the frame and drill the holes. I drilled the top holes too as the lintel went across the top in one piece.
I then stuck the 5mm ceramic paper around the frame and fixed the bottom screws. As required I drilled each brick to align with the side holes.
In the picture below you can see the lower screw fixed and the hole for the upper screw.
Hopes this helps!
in what percentage if I can ask? All the bricks were laid with a fireclay/sand/ash mix (3/1/1 by volume. |
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Post by independentenergy on Sept 14, 2017 23:23:12 GMT -8
even those of the firebox?
Thank
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morticcio
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"The problem with internet quotes is that you can't always depend on their accuracy" - Aristotle
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Post by morticcio on Sept 26, 2017 1:50:12 GMT -8
even those of the firebox? Thank The two halves of the firebox aren't cemented together. I used refractory cement to stick the 5mm ceramic paper to one surface and dry against the other surface. Two large Jubilee clips (hose clips) keep the two halves together. |
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Post by independentenergy on Sept 26, 2017 22:09:17 GMT -8
thanks Andy
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Post by Orange on Oct 9, 2017 12:04:30 GMT -8
I can't see any photos, damn photobucket.
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