Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Jan 5, 2015 3:07:39 GMT -8
i'm fortunate to have access to a range of well seasoned hardwoods that i generally use to wood heating needs. but i've been offered 30m3 of seasoned pine offcuts (roof truss offcuts). i've generally steered clear of burning pine. what are people thoughts of putting vast quantities of pine though a rocket?
|
|
|
Post by peterberg on Jan 5, 2015 4:35:05 GMT -8
In a J-tube RMH the chance of back-burning will increase. A batch box will generally burn hotter with pine and won't backdraft as long the door is closed during the top of the burn. And the batch box is able to consume larger fuel.
|
|
|
Post by satamax on Jan 5, 2015 10:15:30 GMT -8
I'm a fire whore, or a wood slut I'd burn anything
|
|
|
Post by wiscojames on Jan 5, 2015 11:01:50 GMT -8
That's hilarious. For speaking English as a second (third? fourth?) language, you have a good command of the more colorful parts.
|
|
|
Post by satamax on Jan 5, 2015 11:06:19 GMT -8
Well, i've lived "up north" in UK! That helps! They aren't as stuck up, up there!
|
|
|
Post by pinhead on Jan 5, 2015 17:02:04 GMT -8
I've burned a lot of wood that would normally be considered unsuitable. That includes cedar and juniper which would fill a normal wood stove's chimney with all sorts of oils and creosote.
Once the Batch Box is up to temp I can even mix in some creosote-soaked railroad ties without ill effect.
|
|
Forsythe
Full Member
Instauratur Ruinae
Posts: 208
|
Post by Forsythe on Jul 14, 2021 15:30:47 GMT -8
I know this is an older thread, but I have a couple questions / ideas regarding use of pine *exclusively* in a rocket, (specifically in a DSR-3 or Vortex-type configuration.)
I’ve read through many posts which indicate that pine burns much hotter and faster in a batch box, and because of this, hardwoods are recommended. Where I live, however, pine (or coppiced willow) are the only type of fuel wood freely available (and there’s a practically endless abundance of it.)
Everyone around here who burns wood stoves [the old-school steel or cast-iron box type] only selects the dead, dry-and-standing *black pine* species for fuel wood (as it’s the most-dense variety of pine in the area, and will burn a little slower in the older woodstoves than any other local pine species.)
So my question / idea is related to A) pine as the only fuel used and B) burning rocket stoves in alpine climates (read: high elevation with air that is less-dense than in most other locales.)
1) I’m curious if anyone has experimented with air intake sizing for batch rockets designed specifically to burn pinewood, since that’s the only variety in an alpine region. (My thinking is that since pine is prone to overfueling, reducing primary air intake size might help to mitigate the faster burn-rate of pinewood.)
2) …or would it be unwise to restrict the air intake in an alpine region, since the high altitude = thinner air = less O2 per cubic volume of air entering the firebox / primary burn chamber to begin with?
|
|
|
Post by Vortex on Jul 15, 2021 2:19:01 GMT -8
I've burnt a lot of pine and willow over the years as we have a lot of large Monterey pines here (Pinus radiata) and Goat willow (Salix caprea). I've also done a lot of burns with a Testo running. Noticed the correct air ratio is a little more critical if you're burning just resinous pine, otherwise not much difference. You cant slow down the burn by restricting the air and expect it to still burn as clean. The stove design itself should create an upper speed limit through the size and shape of the ports/chambers/channels post afterburner. If wind is also an issue you can use a draft regulator.
|
|
|
Post by peterberg on Jul 15, 2021 7:49:44 GMT -8
1) I’m curious if anyone has experimented with air intake sizing for batch rockets designed specifically to burn pinewood, since that’s the only variety in an alpine region. (My thinking is that since pine is prone to overfueling, reducing primary air intake size might help to mitigate the faster burn-rate of pinewood.) Funnily enough, the entire early development of batch box rockets has been done using all sorts of pine and willow. Simply because that was what was available to me for free. All my firewood was aquired from a large glass vendor since part of the glass they sold was packed into wooden crates. Running a batchrocket on hardwood, beech as the most notable species, theoretically could result in a somewhat higher risk of overfueling. Of course the behaviour of a specific heater isn't exactly like any other, mainly due to atmospheric circumstances, trees or buildings in the vicinity, type and quality of the chimney, you name it. 2) …or would it be unwise to restrict the air intake in an alpine region, since the high altitude = thinner air = less O2 per cubic volume of air entering the firebox / primary burn chamber to begin with? Many years ago I've built a couple of mass heaters (Finnish contraflow) high up in the French Alps. It's true there's thinner air at high altitudes although the percentage of oxygen is always the same anywhere on earth. At say, 2000 meters high the air inlet should be somewhat larger but that's all. Restricting of the air inlet in order to slow down burn rate would kill clean combustion, please don't do that.
|
|
|
Post by satamax on Jul 16, 2021 6:16:14 GMT -8
I burn larch, at 1500m altitude, in a batch.
|
|
fuegos
Full Member
not out of the woods yet
Posts: 177
|
Post by fuegos on Jul 16, 2021 11:54:15 GMT -8
In our riserless core bread oven we burn abot 90% pine without any obvious problems .the advantage is that it burns quicker , helping to get the oven mass up to temp. quickly.Bigger pieces will help to prevent overfueling .As with all wood proper seasoning is a must . When the bark is falling off & small radial split appear in the end grain it's good to go. "only selects the dead, dry-and-standing *black pine*" If it's died on the root , from old age , drought or desease , avoid like the plague as it can be full of resin .As a tree gets old & starts to die it seems to produce lots of resin which is it's natural defence against wounds - take a look at a cracked or broken pine branch or a cut branch stub.My experience is that Windblown trees that come down in winter are good for firewood but each one has to be looked at.1+ for the advice of not altering air ratios . Pine & other softwoods are perfectly adequate , the just need proper processing and storage.After all lots of Scandinavian & Russian folk do well with it .
|
|
Forsythe
Full Member
Instauratur Ruinae
Posts: 208
|
Post by Forsythe on Jul 24, 2021 11:36:02 GMT -8
I really appreciate everyone’s feedback here. .As with all wood proper seasoning is a must . When the bark is falling off & small radial split appear in the end grain it's good to go. "only selects the dead, dry-and-standing *black pine*" If it's died on the root , from old age , drought or desease , avoid like the plague as it can be full of resin .As a tree gets old & starts to die it seems to produce lots of resin which is it's natural defence against wounds - take a look at a cracked or broken pine branch or a cut branch stub. My experience is that Windblown trees that come down in winter are good for firewood but each one has to be looked at. This sounds like great advice for nearly all pine species except this particular one, which the locals call “black pine.” It’s actually a subspecies of “lodgepole pine” —*Pinus contorta var. latifolia*— which has a much lower resin content than most other pine species, and the resin ducts are much wider than most others, too. It also tends to remain standing after it has died, unlike other pines, spruce, or fir. Contorta latifolia’s bark layer is also quite thin and finely segmented. All of these characteristics of black lodgepole pine (latifolia) enable it to dry in an upright position; the resin and water content tends to flow back down the dead tree’s abnormally wide vascular system into the roots, the heartwood separates and shrinks away from the thin bark layer. Generally, they are best cut when they’ve been dead for about 1-2 years; when felled and sectioned, the center of the heartwood has a radial pattern of purplish-black, *dehydrated* resins — thus the local nickname “black pine”— which burn very hot and very cleanly, unlike any of the other common pine species in the area.
|
|
fuegos
Full Member
not out of the woods yet
Posts: 177
|
Post by fuegos on Aug 1, 2021 2:44:10 GMT -8
that's good to know , thanks.In the UK i saw in old houses lintels made of what was called Pitch Pine - Pinus Rigida - The high content of resin made it very rot resistant .it was said that it came to the UK during the 19th century.I also heard that this was a generic term for timber that was produced by cutting the top off the tree so that resin would rise & the tree would be felled later.I have my doubts about this.
|
|
fuegos
Full Member
not out of the woods yet
Posts: 177
|
Post by fuegos on Aug 2, 2021 4:43:28 GMT -8
.... lodgepole pine (latifolia) i joined up the dots yesterday after posting & saw abot 15 M from the cabin a Pinus nigra laricio the corsican pine !
|
|