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Post by satamax on Oct 14, 2014 12:33:13 GMT -8
Thanks a lot Peter. I was calculating that at the new workshop, i will need 27kwh. If i follow the calcs from this site. www.pratique.fr/definir-puissance-chauffage-maison.htmlWondering if it's continuous or they estimate intermitent. Anyway, i have the stuff to make one like this. This gets me thinking. Cos i'm affraid the green machine might not be up to the job. For the moment, i will have to do with it and the range. But! .........
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Post by photoman290 on Oct 14, 2014 13:50:38 GMT -8
after reading about the 8 inch monster i want to build one. my needs are rather modest though. i want it to heat a 16 foot yurt. think the 8 inch one may be a tad on the large size. i do want to use the yurt and not have to sit outside waiting for the yurt to cool down enough ,so i was thinking of a 4 inch one. anyone made a scaled down version. i was going to build a 6 inch j tube before i saw how well a batch box works. looks a bit easier as well. plus i like the glass top. my biggest problem is headroom so i dont want to top to get too hot. how critical is the riser height? would i get away with a shortened 45 gallon drum?
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morticcio
Full Member
"The problem with internet quotes is that you can't always depend on their accuracy" - Aristotle
Posts: 371
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Post by morticcio on Oct 14, 2014 14:19:22 GMT -8
how critical is the riser height? In my experience the measurements for a batch box are critical. If you stick to them the stove just works. As other people have said Peter has done all the hard work for us!
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Post by aparker on Oct 14, 2014 16:22:20 GMT -8
photoman290, I cannot quote chapter and verse, but I seem to remember that an RMH can be built to emphasize heating the mass, rather than the quick heat of a metal barrel. This is best exemplified by the castle builds that dragonheaters offers. The downside is that they are not particularly transportable. Is your yurt going to stay in place? If it is, you could do something like a castle build, and/or heat a bench or a sitting/sleeping platform. To stay transportable, brick-lined barrels, like those used in dragonheaters' Derrick Build or the second barrel in this thread, could be used. Transportable is a subjective term, in this case, as the bricks will be a pretty heavy load but they can be moved. Again, to keep the quick heat down, look to dragonheaters' mass heater designs, rather than the conventional RMH setup.
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Post by photoman290 on Oct 15, 2014 1:57:12 GMT -8
thanks, the yurt is not going to be moved nor at least the floor and stove wont be. will have a look at the castle builds. i was thinking of putting dome mass on top of the barrel. a have seen that done by someone n here or permies. think they used clay and a large pizza stone.
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Post by photoman290 on Oct 15, 2014 3:40:24 GMT -8
could someone check my figures for a 100mm diameter riser. i am ok up to the p channel height. i make it 10.9 mm. does that sound right.?
3.14*2500*0.05/36=10.9
sounds about right but a bit rusty on the maths.
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Post by AlexHarpin on Oct 15, 2014 5:24:01 GMT -8
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Post by pinhead on Oct 15, 2014 6:03:39 GMT -8
According to my spreadsheet, 11mm is right.
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morticcio
Full Member
"The problem with internet quotes is that you can't always depend on their accuracy" - Aristotle
Posts: 371
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Post by morticcio on Oct 15, 2014 6:54:17 GMT -8
100mm diameter riser the P-channel is 11mm x 36mm (height x width)
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Post by photoman290 on Oct 15, 2014 7:26:28 GMT -8
thanks, maths not that rusty then.
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Post by satamax on Oct 20, 2014 10:35:00 GMT -8
Hi everybody! Peter, if you pop around, What size would you consider thoses flues in round equivalent? They're 18cm x 18cm inside size, with rounded corners. So they're a bit less than the 324cm² csa of a real 18x18 a 20cm round is 314cm² If i calculate well, the flat walls are 11cm arpoximately. So 11x18 =198cm² 18-11=7 7x11 77cm² Then the corners are half of that 7cm remaining part, so 3.5 radius. 3.5²x3.1415926 = 38.48cm² 198+77+38.48 = 313,48cm² Is that close enough to an 8 incher? To replicate the monster you built at the gathering? Thanks a lot. Max.
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Post by peterberg on Oct 21, 2014 11:05:07 GMT -8
Hi Max, I'd think this tube isn't really an 8", 200 mm equivalent. More in the range of somewhere between 180 and 190 mm I'd say.
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Post by satamax on Oct 21, 2014 11:19:30 GMT -8
Hi Max, I'd think this tube isn't really an 8", 200 mm equivalent. More in the range of somewhere between 180 and 190 mm I'd say. Thanks a lot Peter. I calculated the hydraulic diameter earlier on, and it seems to be 18cm! There's two or three pieces of schiedel's or tona tubes at the builders merchant where i go usualy. He's the brother of the guy i go to on the other side of the border (one brother each side!) for my usual tubes. By the way, what do you think of what i did last time, cutting the round tube a bit to acomodate the firebricks for the end of the firebox? I think i would do the same for the big one. Thanks again. Max.
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Post by peterberg on Oct 22, 2014 0:53:58 GMT -8
By the way, what do you think of what i did last time, cutting the round tube a bit to acomodate the firebricks for the end of the firebox? I think i would do the same for the big one. Yes, seems to be a good idea.
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