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Post by rakettimuurari on Jan 5, 2024 0:38:18 GMT -8
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Post by rakettimuurari on Oct 30, 2023 1:12:16 GMT -8
Thanks masonryrocketstove. This is really helpful! I'll plan for one to just be aesthetic then. Eventually, I'd like to add a bench off the right side so it would have to go down to one pipe (are they really not called plungers? lol, I don't know where I got that term from haha) at that point anyway. Would it then make sense to have the burn core lifted off the floor? To let gasses flow to the single ascending pipe? Or is it better to have the mass of brick underneath? Great answer by masonryrocketstove... I've been sometimes pondering this during recent years - this is one of the best worded explanations I have come by - thanks! - Also relating to a problem op seeks advice for; if I remember correctly the rule of thumb - 90 degree turns in channels would be better to be at least 150% of the chimney/ system CSA, U- turns need 200%... This summer got to see it in practice in 100 years old finnish masonry stove which was taken down...
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Post by rakettimuurari on Sept 14, 2020 3:36:04 GMT -8
Nice to see it works so well! Is the port really only around 50% of system CSA (4")? My math has been sleeping since the last stove My summer stove project this year was to build a 4 inch Vortex stove to see how well it behaves compared to the 6 inch. All dimensions are scaled times 0.666 of the 6" / 150mm stove.
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Post by rakettimuurari on Mar 7, 2020 0:57:05 GMT -8
Excellent news; now, this I've been waiting!
Special appreciation for .skp - Thank you Sir.
It is getting harder and harder to have next summer without building a stove...
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Post by rakettimuurari on Dec 25, 2019 1:41:17 GMT -8
Dear DSR 2 Lovers I'm finally about to implement this marvelous core into an cookstove. I sketched "bricked" version of it (15 cm, 6") using local brick size (230 x 114 x 65 mm) And during sketching one question has arisen: What shall be the distance of the exit port from the front brick wall? (the left one @ the image ) In Peter's setup it is 122 mm from the door. But in my case this distance is decreased almost twice due to the brick thickness (i.e. 65 mm is deducted from the original 122 ) If anyone find it of any use here is the skp file for v.8.0 sketchup
Great to hear; looking forward for pics!! Merry Cristmas everyone!
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Post by rakettimuurari on Dec 16, 2019 1:03:10 GMT -8
I ve been using the cheap ones in flue and bell - theys show max 450'C and have the censor in a rod ... - for 2 years now with no problem. I have four of them; one had to be replaced though, but they seem to display zero when they break. The one in the hottest place is on top of the J- tube; actually three years and still working. Bypass makes big difference... my brick chimney gets to 200'C with it open and to max 70'C when closed so it is helpful but u also lose much when it is open too long... Thermometers I use; u get em in different rod lengths... Wood oven thermometer
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Post by rakettimuurari on Dec 5, 2019 4:24:31 GMT -8
Nevermind - I probably was just unclear.
Just thinking that the planned system size (4,17") sounds small when compared to space to be heated...
I was thinking a core installed just outside the fireplace in order to allow larger CSA system build, the old fireplace itself acting as a bell, and the chimney.. well... as a chimney/ exhaust. If the existing heat exchange channels would be in the top of the bell instead of being along the route of the exhaust, the channels would provide heated air still long after the fire is not burning anymore. Bell - chimney connection then, should be situated low, of course.
But then again if the core has to be inside the fireplace, then it will be likely too cramped.
One more thing. I have built three different systems on old brick chimneys - lowest chimney being at ca. 3,5m height from firebox. My experience is that basic old brick chimney works normally with normal numbers/ factors... at least when minimum 3,5m high. Rather it seems that too large bell or too long heat ducting BEFORE the chimney will cause the problems.
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Post by rakettimuurari on Dec 2, 2019 2:50:13 GMT -8
So you would like to make the fireplace to operate as a bell, but also want to insert DSR2 core inside the firebox? - Did I understand correctly? and
-What was your Chimney's CSA?
If you had some sqfeet to sacrifice, I could think leaving the fireplace to act as bell and instead - installing the core sideways in front of the fireplace (with side-loaded build?) and as low as possible. Could it be possible to have it build as having firebox floor at floor level? That way u would win som extra inches to accommodate larger CSA system to utilize the chimney better (if enough CSA available). Bit smallish bell would ensure that heat pipes wont cool the exhaust to chimney too much. I would definetely install the bypass anyway though.
Interesting set up!
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Post by rakettimuurari on Nov 26, 2019 1:53:29 GMT -8
All true. No metal for that one; will get insta- corroded. Basically I could utilize all the solid firebricks from the J- tube core, although castable enables to make bit thinner elements (will make burnchambers floors and roofs out of that anyway). Yes, have to think about this... it could be a better project in summer. Probably I will just update my J- tube with a bypass at this point. Thanks for the experimental work and the dimensions/ measurements; your double ram-horn looks very convincing One of these days I'll add some new pictures about the "aryan sauna stove's" latest configuration + burn to that thread. Afterburner chamber is smaller now and bottom corners are camfered & bottom insulated.
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Post by rakettimuurari on Nov 25, 2019 1:32:25 GMT -8
For this mornings test burn I made a steep 45 degree sided grate out of some old pieces of firebrick. I've noticed CO seems lower in the coaling phase when there is air up through the ash-trap, but as soon as a hole burns through the coals the CO spikes back up. My grate is quite shallow so the embers don't fall in on themselves, so I wanted to test how it would behave with steeper sides. Ash, Willow, Holly & Monterey Pine, laid horizontal length-ways. Because of the higher level of the grate the usual half load about three quarters filled the firebox. Lit from on top with the bypass closed. I added another 5 smallish pieces of wood at 9:47. The temperature in the afterburner broke my previous record of 921.2*C and went up to 938.7*C. The previous record was set on a windy day with a full load of fuel, today was very still so I was surprise it went so high. The normal rise in CO at the start of the coaling phase never arrived and instead kept getting lower. It dipped down to 32ppm at it's lowest point. Thx for this inspirational thread Vortex. I Re- read now after a while... I feel the urge to build some "stove- stuff" accumulating - grrrr I' ve been planning couple of years to build a cooking stove next and your build is most temptating; especially due the streamlined and solid design. I might end up dismantling my J- tube in sauna dressing room and replacing it with this design. Actually only (1st) half of it would do as I could leave the bell on that old one standing! J- tube is not really easy lover, if the usage is once a week in -5'C -- -30'C temperature range. Needs some prework always in the beginning as I have no bypass. I could build (half of) your model, combine that with the existing small bell + add the bypass hatch... To this: What do u think? As I uderstand it should be enough if I just make 1 st half of your build all the way to the opening (1 x CSA) after the afterburner box and the route it with low connection in to the bell on the right ...? Sláinte! -Antti- Ps. My sauna stove configuration (in the actual sauna room) is now very close to your build - especially the upper chamber and it works wonders. When the burn gets to the speed, the glass is clean and no visible smoke or steam from chimney.
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Post by rakettimuurari on Nov 18, 2019 5:34:41 GMT -8
Every civilised stove needs a glass of wine. well... In my masonry culture the Holly Hephaestus is believed to require an offer of a stronger shot :-) Yes... yes... I can relate to this very well!! And what a nice beatifully crisp and clean looking stove! Great work! In my experience 10mm of wool / air between inner and outer part of the stove prevents the cracks in mediocre hot spots - parts touching anywhere solidly are a risk whatsoever. The hottest parts seem to require from 20 to 50mm insulation (which should not be made from too rigid material). Would love to see the blueprints!
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Post by rakettimuurari on Nov 18, 2019 5:21:22 GMT -8
Congrats! What a nice smooth rustic functional little beauty You make me wanna build some stove Nice work!
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Post by rakettimuurari on Nov 19, 2018 0:03:42 GMT -8
That might last, as at least some time. Should be careful with rocks though; well I don't really know how soft that pipe would be but the rocks would help it to shed extra heat away from it at least.
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Post by rakettimuurari on Nov 13, 2018 6:26:33 GMT -8
That thing Sir, looks solid One modification coming to a mind at first (when it finally proofs that its not enough just like that) could be to modify the lowest part of the chimney piping going horizontally and looping inside the rocks on top of stove roof and then back again inside the rocks before shooting up as a chimney. In that way u could utilize both - primary and secondary burn to heat the rocks. As you probably know, these kind of tent stoves as well as many regular sauna stoves are prone to have secondary burn inside the chimney pipe... When I was in military we often had the flame tip visible on top of the chimney. Same was with my Estonian sauna stove before the modifications I made. So looping and adding horizontal length would tame it a bit and get the secondary burn in to use. Other possibility to transfer secondary burn below the rocks would be the secondary burn chamber as discussed before... but that would end up being more complicated. Chimney modification illustrated reminder for myself: After you copy the public Dropbox link to your clipboard, just change ?dl=0 to ?raw=1 at the end of the URL.
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Post by rakettimuurari on Nov 13, 2018 1:38:06 GMT -8
Just some more stuff... You are right about the amount of stones sadly. Traditional "smoke sauna" around here has no chimney, has some hundreds of kilos of rocks and is heated for hours (from 3h to even 10h as far as I have seen) and the gasses go through the rocks). On the other hand it provides heat on some occasions for two days even. The minus aspect is that it most definitely wont burn clean - ever, and it will take tons of wood. Anyway a sauna stove with not-constantly-heated-rocks will need the considerable mass in it - there is no escape; that's why I was talking about large rocks earlier.... So with small amount of rocks it is probably good thing to consider the option with constant fire in it too. Forgot to mention the modular sauna-stove -idea, a kind of which I implemented in my normal sauna (thread: " ancient aryan sauna stove"). I got smokeless burn simply by combining two burn chambers with certain kind of primary and secondary air configuration... I was wondering if any kind of light weight option of that could be possible...
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