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Post by sneekypete on Apr 4, 2013 17:24:30 GMT -8
Thanks endrunner I understand that the barrel sizes work with the next size up barrel but wonder if the usual internal dimensions and proportia are still kept to scale Im asking if you insulated the heat riser or in going to the next size barrel you ran it with an uninsulated heat riser and the spacing between the outside of the heat riser and the next size up barrel could have been, well in the case of a 6 inch system anyway, over 7 inches from the edge of the heat riser to the edge of the barrel on each on all sides? Being new at this I kinkd of keep the spacing between the barrel kind of by the book hoping for the best results In doing this with just the heat riser im wondering if this will keep the flow through the system moving and you will have no issues with the push pull effect you need to get all the gasses out to eventually after you have gone through your mass, exit the system?
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Post by spmp09 on Apr 4, 2013 19:44:22 GMT -8
Unbelievable! What a beautiful job you have done! The bright red container is a very nice touch. Class!
I feel unbearably rude asking this -- especially at this stage. Is the price to cover costs, or is it part of a venture to reward your awesome effort? The difference being that if its the former, it would be interesting to see how we could do it with a 3D printer and laser cutter here in NZ land - if CAD files and such like are available. The 3D print finish might not be smooth enough, but worth a shot. Otherwise, will have to start saving pennies, as this is The Way to go! Thanks Peterberg and Endrunner!
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Post by Donkey on Apr 4, 2013 20:04:45 GMT -8
Absolutely marvelous!! Good job you guys! Good luck on your venture!
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Post by Donkey on Apr 4, 2013 20:08:08 GMT -8
Thanks endrunner I understand that the barrel sizes work with the next size up barrel but wonder if the usual internal dimensions and proportia are still kept to scale Im asking if you insulated the heat riser or in going to the next size barrel you ran it with an uninsulated heat riser and the spacing between the outside of the heat riser and the next size up barrel could have been, well in the case of a 6 inch system anyway, over 7 inches from the edge of the heat riser to the edge of the barrel on each on all sides? Being new at this I kinkd of keep the spacing between the barrel kind of by the book hoping for the best results In doing this with just the heat riser im wondering if this will keep the flow through the system moving and you will have no issues with the push pull effect you need to get all the gasses out to eventually after you have gone through your mass, exit the system? Barrel spacing isn't important. As long as you maintain AT LEAST the minimum, you're fine. In fact, I've seen that they most often work better with larger barrel gaps. Oh, by the way.. NEVER do an uninsulated heat riser. Endrunner and crew are using high tech stuff, so it's really thin. It looks too thin to be insulated (in the pictures) but it ain't..
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Post by endrunner on Apr 10, 2013 20:40:23 GMT -8
spmp09
It is a commercial venture. The 3d printer is not really up the task in our opinion. The SLA stuff is great, but VERY expensive 10K per size. So we CNC and hand made the positives, still expensive, but not as bad.
We would be happy to ship a pallet of them to you and several of your closest rocket heater fans!
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Post by spmp09 on Apr 10, 2013 22:38:28 GMT -8
spmp09 It is a commercial venture. The 3d printer is not really up the task in our opinion. The SLA stuff is great, but VERY expensive 10K per size. So we CNC and hand made the positives, still expensive, but not as bad. We would be happy to ship a pallet of them to you and several of your closest rocket heater fans! 8) After a week of hunting I found a supplier of insulating castable refractory and vermiculite board - and suffice to say for a beautiful fiished product, what you are offering is CHEAP! But not enough time for penny saving atm, winter cold is about two weeks away and 'holidays' end in a week, need something now Your concrete must be pretty special. The local rep is telling me that their castable has alot of bits in it (perlite) and is highly corrodable so will not last. They recommend a refractory burn suface and insulating outer.... (i.e yours is way better for the record 8) What do you mean SLA? Do you mean PLA? Yea the 3D printing will be dodgy. four parts as well. I guess a CNC plywood mould is the way to go 8) aaah, all in the spirit of experimentation. By the sounds of the commercial insulating refractory a refractory+crushed perlite would probably be better.... So.. .. at any rate to answer my own question... its rude 8( I am, as far as I can tell, the only person with a RMH that anyone has seen in NZ... so we are sortof showcasing the things. I keep pushing (I was today again 8), hopefully I can get enough interest to justify a pallet load for them, as bugger the rest+bricks, this is the best 8) (Until proven otherwise) I guess what I am trying is similar to Donkeys idea: How to make this with Neolithic tools - THe 3D printer is a fact of life now, much as the computer is (i.e parallels to home computers in the 80's when it was mostly home jobs), so for community development of such ideas home made refractories and 3D printers may be as Neolithic as we want to get 8)... vermiculite board.... hmmm... no idea 8)
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Post by Donkey on Apr 10, 2013 22:51:56 GMT -8
spmp09, It can be done.. It all depends on what kinda clay(s) you have. Most likely, the home-made jobbies won't last as long as the fancier, cast-refractory. The price will be right and if you come up with some way to make them easily replaceable, then who cares?
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Post by spmp09 on Apr 15, 2013 3:05:03 GMT -8
What sort of temperatures are you getting up to in the burn chamber in this amazing rocket?
Pulled my old bricks and mud one down today.... the lounge seems about three times as big now 8) Good 'ol faithful(ly leaked and smoked 8)
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Post by peterberg on Apr 15, 2013 10:45:59 GMT -8
What sort of temperatures are you getting up to in the burn chamber in this amazing rocket? Highest measured temperature, due to equipment limitations, 1050 C. (1920 F.) about 1" above the burn tunnel floor and directly behind the feed tube. Maximum level could be very close to 1200 C. (2190 F.), about the same as the batch box rocket.
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Post by thevirtualmaineiac on Apr 16, 2013 9:46:35 GMT -8
Hi there
Boy things have come a long way since I was here last. Congrats Peterburg, your dragon burner is very impressive. I was following the beginnings of its creation and somehow I could see this coming, great work.
I followed end runners link to dragon burners and I have a question.
Do you think the 4" dragon burner core would work set up as a bell heater and please feel free to comment on the idea I'll be looking forward to it.
Thanks, Vern The Virtual Maineiac
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Post by peterberg on Apr 16, 2013 11:15:53 GMT -8
vern, Yes, this could be done. Beware, however, for a masonry single bell the inner surface should be short of twice as large as the maximum steel barrels it could service. In other words, you have to test this core yourself. In order to find out this maximum inner surface, specifically as combined with your chimney.
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Post by endrunner on Apr 16, 2013 19:09:00 GMT -8
We are going to test a double bell with a 6" core next. I have some temperature logging equipment I am hopping to try out with it and will post the results. It is similar to the cooking stove at the site, but without the oven. We are hoping to be able to extract most the heat w/o using benches.
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Post by grizbach on Apr 17, 2013 2:08:26 GMT -8
endrunner, I am sure you will be able to get down to condensing temps with a double bell. My 6" stove runs through a small(4') bench-shaped double bell and I exhaust at about 145F. To be honest, I consider the stove itself to be a bell. So it's actually 3 bells.
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Post by endrunner on Apr 17, 2013 8:26:32 GMT -8
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Post by Donkey on Apr 17, 2013 18:58:12 GMT -8
Friggin cool! Nice lookin.
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