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Post by Dan (Upstate NY, USA) on Dec 20, 2011 20:32:32 GMT -8
Here are my plans in Google Sketchup. I used the program to work out my idea and give a visual model for my wife.
Can't cut holes in the floor without the wife on board.
The 8" (20.32 cm) stove will start in the kitchen, go under the floor into the basement. Then it will come up in the living room and split into two 6" (15.24 cm) parallel pipes and go out an existing triple walled insulated 8" wood stove chimney well above my roof line.
I worry about the burn tunnel to riser ratio and the depth of the feed tube.
Please critique and advise, I start drilling holes and laying plumb lines tomorrow...
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Post by Dan (Upstate NY, USA) on Dec 20, 2011 20:32:56 GMT -8
Photo 2
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Post by Dan (Upstate NY, USA) on Dec 20, 2011 20:33:16 GMT -8
Photo 3
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Post by Dan (Upstate NY, USA) on Dec 20, 2011 20:33:42 GMT -8
Photo 4
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Post by Dan (Upstate NY, USA) on Dec 20, 2011 20:34:06 GMT -8
Photo 5
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Post by Dan (Upstate NY, USA) on Dec 20, 2011 20:34:25 GMT -8
Photo 6
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Post by Dan (Upstate NY, USA) on Dec 20, 2011 20:34:44 GMT -8
Photo 7
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Post by Dan (Upstate NY, USA) on Dec 20, 2011 20:35:06 GMT -8
Photo 8
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Post by Donkey on Dec 21, 2011 0:46:42 GMT -8
Pay careful attention to keeping the hot bits WAY away from anything flammable, 12 to 18 inches is good. Why the parallel pipes? I imagine that the pipes will need to be the same lengths, have the same number of bends and all that. Otherwise you may have flow issues, or one pipe will run hotter than the other, etc. Will there be thermal mass in the living room or the basement?
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Post by Dan (Upstate NY, USA) on Dec 21, 2011 16:45:43 GMT -8
The burn tunnel and riser is 24" away from all wood beams and rafters. That is why it is so low into the floor.
In-between the wood and the hot spots will be a lot of thermal insulation and then concrete.
The pipe to carry it from the stove to the living room is super expensive insulated triple wall stainless steel chimney pipe rated for a two inch clearance. Above the 2" air space will be a layer of aluminum, then 1/2 concrete board, aluminum, 1/2" concrete board and then one more aluminum.
The thermal mass will be in the living room. I only have room for a "L" shaped heat bench of pipe 20 feet long. I don't have the width to go to the exhaust, back to the origin, and then back to the exhaust again with a 8" pipe.
So I though it would come up to a junction box with two 6" pipes leaving it with one 90 degree bend in each then to a junction box with one 8" pipe leaving it.
The junction boxes will have to start and end diagonally so both runs of 6" pipe have the same length. Like running starts on an oval race track.
The heat bench will rest on 6" I Beams to get it off the wood floor and there will be an 6" gap behind the bench to the wood wall. Should me a nice natural draft under the bench to heat up the air around it.
In the basement each rafter will have its own jack to support the weight of the bench.
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Post by Dan (Upstate NY, USA) on Dec 21, 2011 16:55:05 GMT -8
Donkey, your hotspot comment made me think that I should allow an air space between the stove and wood to allow for a natural draft.
I had this in my original plan, discarded the idea, brought it back and then discarded it again.
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Post by canyon on Dec 22, 2011 10:33:29 GMT -8
Be absolutely sure you can clean out every run easily! I have had to bust into a bench and redo 90's with tee's so that you could clean it out. It is much easier to do that earlier. Looks like a cool project, please keep us updated on how things work for you!
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Post by lightsurfer on Jan 24, 2012 22:39:24 GMT -8
I'm gathering materials for my first stove and have similar plans to have a space between the stove and the thermal mass. My space will only be about 2' where I plan to have a good ash dump and cleanout. I haven't figured out how to insulate this section of pipe fittings as it will be between two boxes suspended off the floor on legs. My mass bench will have space under it too. I have access to stainless pipe scraps from 6" to 30" dia. so I'll make a heat riser and barrel from that. I'd like to spend the money and buy 1/4" stainless plate to fabricate the feed box and burn tunnel. Is this overkill or am I just building a stove that will last forever? BTW I'm extremely gratefull to all those that experimented before me and I will share my build with PDF drawings and iPhone videos on YouTube.
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Post by canyon on Jan 25, 2012 2:52:43 GMT -8
lightsurfer, even stainless won't last forever of course but it is nice material. If you are familiar with the material (which it sounds like you are) you know that it doesn't conduct heat very well and with that tends to distort and crawl when heated unevenly. Refractory materials (such as hard fire brick) are probably the longest lasting for the job. Stainless has its place as parts of the unit such as a feed tube or shell that you line with firebrick or a 1/4 inch stainless heat riser pipe or stainless "barrel" would be sweet but I wouldn't just weld up an unlined stainless stove.
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Post by Donkey on Jan 25, 2012 9:21:52 GMT -8
Canyon, I've often wondered if you could weld up a complete stove with a port on the top to pour in pearlite and a water tank built in for mass/hot water. It would stand up on legs and be quite light for transpo.. I know, it's a bit off topic, but you've just reminded me.. Waddya think?
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