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Post by satamax on Jan 22, 2019 7:01:36 GMT -8
It all depends on your chimney. If the draft is strong, i would try it. Something like 18cm for 15 tube. But natural draft has to be strong.
Otherwise, you can use poujoulat insulated tubes. IIRC, the minimum distance from the outer skin to the nearest piece of wood shouldn't be Under 7cm, to be legal.
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Post by ribeira on Jan 22, 2019 8:45:23 GMT -8
How to know if the draft will be strong? the length of the chimney will be about 7 meters, after the beams I can increase the diameter...but the thing is I have only 35cm between the beams...plus I was considering to do a 220 batchrocket... so it doesn't let me a lot of space between the chimney and the beam.
Another option is to put the chimney behind the barrel, there I don't have beam, but I wondering if the smoke will be able to warm the whole bench...it's longer than 2 meters... So many things to think about to create a batchbox!!!!
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Post by peterberg on Jan 22, 2019 9:34:09 GMT -8
Another option is to put the chimney behind the barrel, there I don't have beam, but I wondering if the smoke will be able to warm the whole bench...it's longer than 2 meters... It's a bit tricky but it can be done. Blind ended benches (sometimes called cul-de-sac) build as a bell are entirely possible. It should be done in such a way that the main bell has a very large opening into the bench. I can't picture it yet how this would look like when done with a barrel. But it's better to review the possibilities first and design the heater around this.
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Post by ribeira on Jan 22, 2019 10:02:33 GMT -8
ok!! I'll submit to your critics new plan in few next days so!
One question, if I'm doing a 210 or 220 batchbox to have more power( just in case of a 200 is too small) but it's finally oversized does it can be a problem, I mean if I put the same amount of wood than in a 200 it will work great too?
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Post by satamax on Jan 22, 2019 11:30:05 GMT -8
With my 220mm workshop heater, i heat 635m"
113m² at the bottom, 57m² at the top, for the flat.
Four tons of mass. And between 16 and 64kg of wood per day.
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Post by ribeira on Jan 23, 2019 6:48:14 GMT -8
Ok thank you I'm thinking about doing a bigger than 200mm because of the hit water system... but maybe 220 is oversized...
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Post by ribeira on Feb 4, 2019 9:47:51 GMT -8
Hi all little pause on my rocket conception those days, busy on something else...
I tried to find good quality refractory bricks around my area but it seems to be hard, I can only find the whites insulating bricks, there is a factory close from where I live, so my question is:
Are this kind of bricks are dedicated to the heat riser or I can use them for the whole core?
thanks
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Post by satamax on Feb 4, 2019 11:50:11 GMT -8
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Post by DCish on Feb 4, 2019 13:32:15 GMT -8
Hi all little pause on my rocket conception those days, busy on something else... I tried to find good quality refractory bricks around my area but it seems to be hard, I can only find the whites insulating bricks, there is a factory close from where I live, so my question is: Are this kind of bricks are dedicated to the heat riser or I can use them for the whole core? thanks Matthew Walker builds his cores exclusively from insulating firebricks or ceramic fiber board. He reports that there is some degradation, but that overall they hold up well. I've done some rough test builds with the bricks outdoors. I find that I have to be careful when handling them, but the insulative quality means the the core comes up to temperature amazingly quickly. I have a j-tube grill made out of insulating firebrick, and it seems to be holding up well. I personally like the idea of having the insulating firebrick portion be relatively easily replaceable, but I have to agree with Matt that it would take a good while to "wear out" a firebox made of insulating firebrick.
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Post by ribeira on Feb 5, 2019 0:28:27 GMT -8
Thanks Satamax, unfortunately the closest offer is already gone...
thanks for your view DCish
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Post by ribeira on Apr 30, 2019 22:54:09 GMT -8
Hi all I resume my reflections about my stove and I'd like to know the dimensions of the floor channel, the dimensions specified here batchrocket.eu/en/designs are universal or there is ratio with the diameter of the rocket?
thx.
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Post by peterberg on May 1, 2019 0:33:12 GMT -8
I resume my reflections about my stove and I'd like to know the dimensions of the floor channel, the dimensions specified here batchrocket.eu/en/designs are universal or there is ratio with the diameter of the rocket? Of course the floor channel size isn't universal, it can't be, so you need to scale it up. Size means the inside of every duct, every figure except thickness need to be scaled up the same percentage as all the others. From 6" to 8" that would be 33.333333etc %. Another proportion which isn't on the site: the channel's feed should be twice as large, csa-wise, as the channel's stub if at all possible.
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Post by ribeira on May 2, 2019 7:48:16 GMT -8
thank you Peter, but I don't really understand this sentence :
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Post by peterberg on May 2, 2019 8:23:39 GMT -8
There's a new floor channel design on the site now. See batchrocket.eu/en/designs#floorchannel, a drawing is also provided. It's in English for every language so I need to contact all the translators. On the site there are measurements of a channel for a 150 mm system, the feed part is given as 60x30x2 mm, the stub as 35x35x2 mm. In the new configuration that will be 60x40x2 mm for the feed while the stub's size remains 35x35x2 mm. Internal csa of the feed is now 2016 mm² while the stub's csa is 961 mm². The feed's size is thus slightly larger than twice the stub's size. The stub is also longer now, the top point of the cap was as high as half of the port, new length means highest point of the stub without the cap is half of the port's height now. Difference is about 22 mm. Does that answers your question?
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Post by ribeira on May 5, 2019 2:01:58 GMT -8
thank you peter I think I understood all now, I will come back with my measurement and plan to be sure! have a nice sunday
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