|
Post by coastalrocketeer on Mar 2, 2019 11:03:16 GMT -8
Nothing about doors in my comment.
By baffle, I meant your added obstruction (circle of blanket on sides and bottom of upper box, that I too thought was a strip rather than a circle initially)
It is a U on the bottom and up the sides of the chamber now, and I was wondering what it would do if you flipped it “upside down” to cover the TOP and sides of the chamber, in rougly the same area of the box between inlet and exhaust.
|
|
|
Post by wiscojames on Mar 2, 2019 11:29:21 GMT -8
Coastal - Not sure what I was on about, talking about the door.
I have wondered the same thing about the obstruction, but couldn't think of an easy way to apply it to the top instead of the bottom.
DCish - I understand the excess air cools the fire, but why do the flames appear darker (more orange then yellow) when I choke down the air? Isn't that color change indicative of lower temperatures?
|
|
|
Post by Vortex on Mar 2, 2019 13:07:12 GMT -8
I think it's the unburnt smoke in the flames that make them appear darker, as there's not enough air for complete combustion. If you look at your chimney when the flames are that colour you'll probably see some visible smoke coming from it.
|
|
|
Post by peterberg on Mar 2, 2019 13:58:48 GMT -8
I think it's the unburnt smoke in the flames that make them appear darker, as there's not enough air for complete combustion. If you look at your chimney when the flames are that colour you'll probably see some visible smoke coming from it. I'll second that, this is what I call opaque flames, you aren't able to see through it. This is a sure indication of incomplete combustion, the clear flames are the ones you want.
|
|
|
Post by coisinger on Mar 6, 2019 4:57:11 GMT -8
Ok, So I did take a moment to draft up a 'cylindrical DSR' using a method that could be constructed using 1.25" firebrick in sections that could be built and stacked, step by step. The concept being, a side shooter, where the port is tangent to one side, allowing a rolling flame pattern vs. a rams-horn pattern. For example: The first image in the 'parts' link below is the back, or base of the structure. It's 1.25" firebrick, cut and laid out in the shape shown. It is mortared and let to cure. The second image is the port section, with 1.5" firebrick laid on edge to form the tube shape. etc... It seems complicated, but the parts can be mortared together on top of each other, building the core like you'd build the bell, brick on brick. Building a form around the core and insulating it with 2" of air-crete would give the it stability and allow it to be moved to it's final location. Yeah, it likely would be flimsy without this approach. This follows the 8" batch box specifications for riser area, fire box area and port. The only thing that I did not focus hard in on was secondary air, but there are several proven methods that could be applied. This is the 3D model: photos.app.goo.gl/w8Xb1Xbh7BWqN6wNAThese are the 'parts': photos.app.goo.gl/fQtkAUyjVgpmfFu26The first image on the left is the back, or the bottom of construction. The second image from the left is the port. the third image is basically a spacer that continues the tube top and bottom. The fourth image is continuation of the tube The fifth is the exhaust port. The core would be insulated and the bell could be constructed around it. The total depth of the core is 24" total (individual depths of parts listed under the image). A door would be fabricated for the lower firebox portion and glorious, fire viewing glass would be used for the shoe-box portion.
|
|
|
Post by wiscojames on Mar 6, 2019 5:46:30 GMT -8
The links don't work for me. (could be operator error)
|
|
|
Post by coisinger on Mar 6, 2019 7:48:51 GMT -8
Links updated...
|
|
|
Post by DCish on Mar 8, 2019 6:30:52 GMT -8
Looks like a fun experiment!
|
|
|
Post by coisinger on Mar 11, 2019 4:23:18 GMT -8
Yes, I likely won't get to do it until this fall, but when it happens, I'll post...
|
|
|
Post by wiscojames on Apr 20, 2019 4:46:28 GMT -8
With the arrival of spring we need more room in the greenhouse, so the heater needed to be disassembled. I reassembled it outside. Cobbled the brick bell together outside, this time topping it off with a salvaged glass cooktop. Small dry wood give me about 500 F on the hottest spot. It was hard to get going in the right direction and burned lazily the first time, so i got impatient and put the inline booster fan on. I will be cooking something or another on there this weekend. For various reasons, I opted to leave out the window in this iteration. drive.google.com/file/d/0B_nwX3pO78zKbDhlUkEyOUZkQU1qdTlaX2Y5bjI4am1ZU25j/view?usp=drivesdk
|
|
|
Post by wisc0james on Jan 24, 2020 13:34:42 GMT -8
I have disassembled the woodstove and rebuilt it inside in order to continue with this line of experiment. If I had my druthers, I'd have built it in the kitchen, but, alas, I'm married with children. Can't rely on experimental stove with no oven to cook dinner. Since I'm stubborn, though, I carried it down into the basement. It's a tower that's approximately four feet tall, about twenty by twenty-eight inches on the inside. I know this is low on ISA, but I'm hoping the glass top will shed a lot of the heat, compensating to some degree. I used about forty concrete blocks, four by eight by sixteen inches each. One layer of full size firebrick on top. Topped with the recycled glass top from an old electric range. Cylinders are ten inch diameter, bottom one lined with firebrick on sides and rear. I just need to complete the chimney connection before testing. Chimney is typical for a hundred year old farmhouse in the Midwestern U.S., brick, located in the center of the home, and about ten by twelve inches. It drafts well. Here it is, a nearly finished. drive.google.com/file/d/17ITGxa1PihZM5DtyQXogKQCx0mwgxYG0/view?usp=drivesdkThe arrangement for the window is provisional, and inelegant. In the future I would skip the window or incorporate it into the construction of the front face of the bell for a cleaner look. drive.google.com/file/d/17I-5rrEiLgwVXrJkxnH0F-lqgvW_kvf7/view?usp=drivesdkPotentially a very easy build. Looking forward to the next iteration, with upgrades.
|
|
|
Post by Vortex on Jan 25, 2020 9:19:56 GMT -8
Looks good. Glad to hear you're still developing it. Post a video when you have it up and running
|
|
|
Post by wisc0james on Jan 25, 2020 14:20:23 GMT -8
|
|
|
Post by Dan (Upstate NY, USA) on Jan 26, 2020 8:08:02 GMT -8
I woulda put a tee at the bottom pointing to the wall.
The end of the tee coming at you would have a cap or plug to serve as a cleanout.
The 90 turn of the tee would go to the left and tuck the chimney right against the wall.
Then it's out of the way and on cold starts you can open it there and light some cardboard to get the cold slug of air out of the chimney.
|
|
|
Post by wisc0james on Jan 26, 2020 11:14:39 GMT -8
I may try that. The while space is cramped, but the stovepipe is out of the way enough for coming down the stairs and walking past. The clean out is a good idea, but I thought I could use the original chimney clean out, visible in the profile picture. Whaddya think?
|
|