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Post by borderpatrol on Nov 8, 2018 20:41:40 GMT -8
I have a mama bear fisher stove. My son and I plan on making a batch heater with it. We plan on placing a barrel on top of it and making the flue from the base of the stove to the appropriate height of inside the barrel. With 9x2.5x4 inch bricks it would give me a 6.5 flue. Cannot find much info on how these flues best assembled. I don't have much experience and would like some assistance on the finer details on the assembly of the flues and firebricks. My batch box size is 12 inch wide, 16 inch high and about 16-18 deep. The riser height space is 60 inch so it looks like it is very close to batch box dimensions in Peters posting. thanks jeff
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Post by peterberg on Nov 9, 2018 0:47:19 GMT -8
Hi Jeff, According to the speadsheet the dimensions of the firebox should be close to: Width 9.4", height 14.1", depth 18.8", the last one might be 25% larger. Your numbers are too large concerning width and height in my opinion. Of course, you could build this and see what results come out. It would really help to post pictures or a drawing. Mark that the attachment space on the forum filled up years ago, you need to host those somewhere else and link to it on the forum. Edit: Height of riser is with 47" plenty high for a 6.5 square riser. Edit2: The DSR design you are referring to isn't reliable in terms of stable combustion. I'd suggest you read this thread about a tapered riser. In essence, latest development shows a normal shaped riser not higher than the firebox itself followed by a horizontal tunnel could achieve at least the same performance as the straight riser. More results in the course of this weekend. Edit3: Moving away from the tapered riser idea into a straight design with a top box I'd like to introduce this development as DSR2.
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Post by borderpatrol on Nov 16, 2018 20:34:00 GMT -8
Thanks for the reply. We have access to standard fire brick (instead of insulated) for the riser and does that make the stove less efficient with the start up since it takes longer to heat up? Does too high a riser have any disadvantages over the recommended height? Our current design, 6.5 inch square riser is about 52 inches in height if one where to measure from the inside. Still working on the box, trying to get fire brick in ceiling and get to opening even and a bit narrower. Will post some pictures tomorrow.
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Post by peterberg on Nov 17, 2018 1:46:24 GMT -8
We have access to standard fire brick (instead of insulated) for the riser and does that make the stove less efficient with the start up since it takes longer to heat up? Yes, that's right, more mass to heat up. Insulation around the riser is still needed. Does too high a riser have any disadvantages over the recommended height? Yes, for the same reason, i.e. more mass. Our current design, 6.5 inch square riser is about 52 inches in height if one where to measure from the inside. Your riser could easily be lower, recommended minimum is 8 times base number. And lower mass as a bonus. Still working on the box, trying to get fire brick in ceiling and get to opening even and a bit narrower. I didn't get the last part of that sentence. Do you mean making the riser end or the top gap between bell ceiling and riser end narrower? Both are recommended against, straight riser should be straight and top gap at the bare minimum one time system size, I would go for two if possible. Just build the thing as stated, it'll work right out of the box so to speak. Use it for one season and you'll know what it should be like, you'll have a reference then.
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Post by smokeout on Nov 22, 2018 7:00:46 GMT -8
Hi Jeff, I'm going to keep a keen interest in your thread . I have a Fisher stove as well. It's a different model though, single door , narrow and deep and it has a step up in the back.
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Post by borderpatrol on Dec 22, 2018 15:50:05 GMT -8
Well my batch box heater is done. Thanks to all that have contributed to this website, I could not have done without you folks. Special thanks to Peterburg also, you really helped clarify ideas to make this happen. I have not yet added secondary air and it is just side vented with double wall SS pipe. Temp of stove is easily regulated with a fan blowing on barrel. It is doing a get job heating my garage. I have around $600 in materials and that is including the flue. I know batch box isn't ideal but I so far like the added space to put extra wood if desired. I really like using fisher stove cause I have stove that is factory made with professional door and this sucker is made off 1/4 plate steel and I doubt I could wear this out in a lifetime. Not sure if I'm going to add secondary air, I'm getting a super clean burn so far, no carbon on chimney cap just steam. My double wall flue is only eighty degrees, super happy with that. Sure glad I converter this stove to RMH, so much cleaner. Here are some dimensions Square riser, 6 by 6 inches Riser height 50 inches Port 2.5 by 9 inches Batch box 15 inches deep, 12 inches high, 12 inches wide Flue from barrel 6 inch round Flue thru wall 36 inches long, double SS www.facebook.com/plugins/post.php?href=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.facebook.com%2Fjeff.wesolowski.54%2Fposts%2F1183608011787691&width=500
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fig
New Member
Posts: 10
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Post by fig on Dec 29, 2018 15:56:54 GMT -8
Last year I did something similar with a log wood stove. I put a p channel in it and used a water heater for a bell. It rocketed but it sure went through wood fast. Threw alot of heat off the bell. I didn't get any pics. I got side tracked and didn't pursue it any further. It's disassembled now.
I'm burning pellets at the moment and I am restoring a warm morning coal stove for the basement. I'd really like a batch box down there but I've already had one chimney fire and I'm done with creosote. I'll see how the coal stove does. Got a coal mine 12 miles away.
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