nico
New Member
Posts: 2
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Post by nico on Nov 11, 2018 0:47:40 GMT -8
Check DSR2 developments. I do not think DSR is recommended.
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Post by permaculturebob on Nov 12, 2018 23:52:38 GMT -8
The DSR2 sounds interesting, but I've only seen the subject referenced and then suddenly everyone is playing with the tapered riser which really doesn't have much application in my situation--especially with A DSR well on it's way to being built. If the changes to the firebox are minor and the rest of the build fits about the same space I could adjust, otherwise I may be stuck with DSR for this heating season.
If you have a quick link that might help I'd appreciate it, but I'll keep looking.
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serg247
Junior Member
The mountain can not be conquered, it can allow it to ascend...
Posts: 111
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Post by serg247 on Nov 13, 2018 0:18:44 GMT -8
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Post by Berend on Nov 13, 2018 1:25:06 GMT -8
As far as I can see the big difference is the location of the port. In DSR2 it is still at the back near the bottom instead of on top. I guess you can still use it as a side-winder too if you don't have enough space at the back. Comments from Peter seem to be suggesting that the port being low helps with the stability of the burn because a port in the back near the top does not seem to be good either.
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serg247
Junior Member
The mountain can not be conquered, it can allow it to ascend...
Posts: 111
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Post by serg247 on Nov 13, 2018 5:56:48 GMT -8
It is better to compare the port at the top and bottom. No matter where it is below, behind or from the side. It is better at the bottom throttling leading to the stability of the processes.
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Post by permaculturebob on Nov 13, 2018 18:19:09 GMT -8
Ok guys, I get that you see there is some problem with the dsr but for the life of me I have no idea what that problem is, and the the batch box with a port on the side or in back definitely does not fit my build.
I admit to being preoccupied with dams, gardens, solar arrays, etc etc, and letting the new fireplace build go to the last minute probably wasn't the best strategy and I'm a bit uncomfortable as the weather gets chilly, so if this new iteration is really a severe problem solver, then I obviously want to figure out what it is now, and not in January when I'm snowed in. But the original DSR looks perfectly acceptable to me, I just got my glass stove top, and am currently figuring out logistics for air flow into and out of the second bell.
Did I miss a thread where glass was shattering or burns were suddenly going dirty?
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Post by peterberg on Nov 14, 2018 1:04:06 GMT -8
I've provided an answer to this question already in another thread. donkey32.proboards.com/post/30918/threadIn my experience it wasn't as reliable as the normal straight or sidewinder version. But I don't say it won't work, far from that. It depends greatly on what the heat extraction part would be like. Aim for low end temperature, that'll keep the draft within reasonable terms. A bypass is recommended in that case, otherwise it could be difficult to start it up from cold.
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Post by permaculturebob on Nov 14, 2018 5:16:06 GMT -8
I'm using a power vent, a fan pulling exhaust out rather than a normal draft and extracting as much heat as I can. The final phase of the extraction is a water tank. At any rate, simply stepping up the vent if necessary would solve that issue if I understand what you're saying.
By the way, I'm a huge fan and thanks for all the work you're doing.
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Post by peterberg on Nov 14, 2018 6:04:07 GMT -8
By the way, I'm a huge fan and thanks for all the work you're doing. You're welcome.
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Post by permaculturebob on Nov 26, 2018 10:18:12 GMT -8
I finally got my build to the point where I can start to test it. The power vent prevents even a whiff of smoke inside. The part of the bell surrounding the water tank is still pretty sloppy, but I went ahead and roughed it in, sealing cracks with ceramic fiber, and the tank is not plumbed in yet, so the build is far from complete.
My first burn was just a couple small sticks and some paper to make sure I wasn't going to smoke myself out, then this morning I went ahead and stacked some 2 inch branches and lit the thing from the top of the pile and let it start burning .
I don't have glass on the front of the top "shoe box" so I can only see the secondary fire through the opaque top but after closing down the primary air I could see the very beginnings of the secondary burn and after a half hour or so I went outside and put my hand on the exhaust, just warm to the touch, with lots of steam, and the smell test told me there was a fair amount of smoke as well
I used lots of clay and perlite, especially in the top section where it called for insulated fire brick, so I'm hoping the lack of a double rams horn or a fountain through most of the burn is because of the drying process. I'll try and get some pictures online soon.
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Post by permaculturebob on Nov 27, 2018 7:27:16 GMT -8
Anyone that wants to see pics of the build, www.permaculturebob.org/2018/11/26/new-iteration-of-the-old-rocket-stove/Running another fire this morning, temps at the stove top above the port were continuously over 350C until very late in the coaling stage, but I really didn't see much flame through the glass top although I would think with temps that high, there was still a fair amount of combustion going on in the top shoebox. Still lots of moisture coming out of the clay, even some condensation early in the fire inside the burn chamber on the pyrex lid serving as a door .
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Post by Vortex on Nov 27, 2018 10:32:10 GMT -8
Nice work, Bob. You wont get much flame in the top until all that cold wet mass dries out. If I were you I'd get hold of a little old stove door, preferably with a window, to put on that top box. It'll make an excellent little oven once the fires down to the coals. vimeo.com/299421664 The positioning of your other oven looks like it will only ever get hot enough to be a warming oven at best.
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Post by permaculturebob on Nov 27, 2018 14:06:07 GMT -8
Thanks for the input, the door on the burner box is going to need some retrofitting as well. I was never sure just how hot the oven might get, and if it turns into a simple warming oven I may have to rethink the whole thing. producing hot water is more important than having a baking oven so maybe reworking that space with an insulated outer shell and heat exchanger feeding the water tank is the way to go.
And I need to amend those earlier temp readings, without my glasses I didn't see the scale was changed to F, so the actual temps on the top were around 370 F max--Testing again tonight and I'm already in excess of 420F at the cook top, which I think is in the neighborhood of the temps that ignite wood gas.
Oh, I kept the power vent running all day after the fire went out this morning trying to maximize the drying.
I'll likely do one more fire in the morning, then be gone for a week, so further developments will have to wait.
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Post by permaculturebob on Dec 4, 2018 18:29:24 GMT -8
Finally back home to continue tests with the stove, My wood was not great, but I did manage to find some dry oak boards to go with the miscellaneous branches of softer wood, and after numerous attempts finally got the fire started. It maxed out around 850 on the stove top, and the fire fountain was definitely in evidence, although the burn really gets lethargic when I shut down primary air.
I have a ways to go before all the clay is perfectly dry, but it certainly is getting better. Before I left last week the high was around 500 at the stove top.
I read somewhere that the pyroceram actually acts a bit as an insulator, so is it likely that the inside temps are already in excess of 1000 degrees when the outside temps hit 850?
What temps do you think I should expect when it finishes drying out?
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Post by permaculturebob on Dec 16, 2018 14:52:44 GMT -8
I got a couple short videos to load, one of the top and one of the bb door/window. sorry they aren't longer
all the way at the bottom of the page
They are at the beginning/ going into the main burn, the top will get a bit more active, temps were near 900 at this point.
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