I want to do a lime and sand render. A friend is supposed to get his turkish employees to do it with the pump. But he insists that i should put a thiner mesh, instead of the rebar slab reinforcin grid i have been using. I thought the strawbales were rough enough for the render to adhere. What do you think? Carry on this path? Or do a nite and lime plaster? Nite is schistic clay and sand mixture, that you find in the bottom of glaciary lakes. Thanks everybody.
I'd say we hardly ever apply any mesh on strawbales. (Except burlap on difficult surfaces) But I'm mostly in post and beam construction. Bale are laid flat and fine cut ( one can see the stalks cross section)and such created enormous adsorption area makes clay penetrate it prety deep.
Btw. Arent U afraid of using metal ? (due to possibility of moisture condensation -I mean)
Depending on strenght of factors driving the diffusion process of moisture (temp difference, % of humidity inside and outside)(water vapour being transported either direction) the vapour particle encountering colder metal on its way condensates and that's sth we try to avoid by all means.
I can see the building doesnt have overhangs protecting it from direct driving rain, therfore the water intake can be pretty siginficant. Depending on the speed of drying the amount of water absorbed may not have enough time to evaporate. Whch can be harmfull to the strawbales. Fungi do not need that much moisture to thrive. And if there is water in a liquid form anywhere close to the bales - roting is almost guaranted.
That's why we try to spray a first base slip as deep into straw as possible. (Tom Rijven prefers even pouring clay slip onto both bales surfaces b e f o r e they are put into the wall - much heavier to do but slip penetrates it really deep resulting in a reasonable protection) The layer of clay lime slip covers the straw protecting it from a direct contact with water and allowes cappilary proces of driving the moisture out.
But If it is the place I conclude from your signature I'd be carefull. We need to remember this building technique was born under dry sky of Nebraska. And there is no bigger straw enemy than water.
Were I you I'd also protect the building base against splashing water at the base. We try not to have bales lower than 50 cm from the ground.
Is there any capilary break between the bricks and the first layer of bales ?
Thanks for the reply. Ridge overhangs will be increased in the future. I will also protect the top of the strawbales bellow the wood paneling with some roofing steel. So, i could ventilate there. i haven't put a vapour barrier between bricks and Balles. Behind the bricks, it's ventilated. About 15x27 cm gap. So ventilated at the the bottom top. I could even do a natural draft inducer.
Thanks for the reply. Ridge overhangs will be increased in the future. I will also protect the top of the straw bales bellow the wood paneling with some roofing steel. So, i could ventilate there. i haven't put a vapour barrier between bricks and Balles. Behind the bricks, it's ventilated. About 15x27 cm gap. So ventilated at the the bottom top. I could even do a natural draft inducer.
Max! I'm not sure whether I got U properly. Are the strawbales just an outside insulation layer, covering a standard brick building?? I thought it was a load bearing building.
No any barriers while using strawbales,please!
What I meant was not a vapour barrier, but applying a capilary break material (bituminous paper for example)between a rised wall base and first layer of strawbales.
btw. What was your decision about using the metal mesh after all?
Fungi are like humans. (in fact we used to be one spiece a couple of mln years ago)
They need moderate temp and oxygen and moisture to thrive.
I'm afraid the lower bales provide perfect conditions for them to do so.
The fact the bricks are perforated does not change much I'm afraid.
Monitor it often. As well as the places where the bales touch the brick wall.
The wall will always be colder thus allowing the vapour to condensate and form a drop which will then be capillary sucked in by the straw.
Then if there is much of it & driving force (low humidity outside and higher temp inside) is not strong enough to direct it outward (toward the plaster) the water will remain in the bales and... soon our fungi brothers will appear.
dan1941300: If possible in metric cm, how many Celsius at the chimney? Is there anything you would do different if building again? Sorry for my bad english, my language is german, austrian. thx a lot
May 11, 2018 9:38:02 GMT -8
smarty: Dan my batchbox reached 1150C so refractory cement rated to at least 1200C
May 21, 2018 22:53:56 GMT -8
mercedes: Not sure where this question will end up...I just registered. HOW THICK SHOULD PERLITE/VERMICULATE/CLAY INSULATION BE BEHIND THE THERMAL BATTERY/COB BENCH IF IT BACKS UP TO A STRAW BALE WALL? Thanks! Can you please also post me: email@example.com thnx!!
May 28, 2018 20:05:23 GMT -8
kkp: Mercedes: Benches don't get real hot. In fact, they are rather cool compared to other areas. You shouldn't need a mix like you described
Jun 7, 2018 18:10:52 GMT -8
maartenmartens: beste Peter, ik heb je eergisteren een mail gestuurd via het contact formulier op je website , heb je die goed ontvangen ? mvg Maarten Martens, architect - geobioloog (mail betreffende de bouw van onze eigen RMH)
Jun 20, 2018 13:21:57 GMT -8
martinm: any one here with info \ experience with heat (from a mass heater) distribution with ducts throughout two storey house ?
Sept 8, 2018 22:58:52 GMT -8
padica: Good morning, this is a wonderful subject, please someone can help me with the theme of double and triple combustion, how it is achieved, theory and design, thank you
Sept 15, 2018 7:13:40 GMT -8
wiscojames: I'm afraid you won't get a response to such a vague question - I suggest reading through some of the threads related to your questions before asking for an explanation. People will be very generous with their knowledge if your question is more specific.
Sept 18, 2018 4:48:00 GMT -8
daniel: in my experience as I am working now on something of that nature, I have thought of making a heat exchanger and distributing the heat through vents using a slower fan. Now after a few years I realize that mass heaters give out primarily radiant heat, for
Nov 30, 2018 12:48:38 GMT -8
coastalrocketeer: Anyone posting in this shout box... if you have something you want people to see and respond to, create a thread in the appropriate forum section... this is not the place...
Dec 16, 2018 18:10:49 GMT -8
vesuvius: High Temperature Glass options,
Jan 4, 2019 16:28:17 GMT -8
vesuvius: Do any of you have experience with using the glass from home oven doors on a rocket stove? I'd like to have a viewing port on my stove but don't want to fork out for new ceramic glass. Any thought as to whether it would take the heat of a rocket stove?
Jan 4, 2019 16:30:40 GMT -8
yaya: you dont need the blowair for that temp..
Jan 13, 2019 16:43:57 GMT -8
flybywire: Glass window from an old washing machine is designed to take high temps. Cheap solution to your need.
Jan 27, 2019 0:10:58 GMT -8
coastalrocketeer: Anyone posting in this shout box... if you have something you want people to see and respond to, create a thread in the appropriate forum section... this is not the place to have a discussion... it is for short announcements
Feb 7, 2019 0:11:23 GMT -8
coastalrocketeer: you won’t likely get replies to questions here, and it is not a spot that makes holding an ongoing discussion possible...
Feb 7, 2019 0:12:22 GMT -8