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Post by satamax on Nov 14, 2016 13:03:06 GMT -8
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Post by ericaus on Nov 20, 2016 11:49:16 GMT -8
Wow Max, that looks pretty chilly there. That should make a huge difference. What about the roof?
Eric
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Post by satamax on Nov 20, 2016 14:20:32 GMT -8
Wow Max, that looks pretty chilly there. That should make a huge difference. What about the roof? Eric Eric, well, you know, it takes time. But i think i gonna go for a strawbale sarking of some kind. It's just the time to price the job, and imagine which way i gonna do it. Roofing is my main job. So i'm ahead of the game. But i have to sort a way to do it well on the cheap. So far, i have 12cm of cork in this roof. I bought this place with just roof and walls from a hippie. Roof is R3 euro numbers. So R17 in us values. |
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Post by byronc on Nov 20, 2016 14:48:45 GMT -8
My place came with R19 (US value) fiberglass insulation in the roof / attic. A few years ago I added another layer of R19 on top of the existing layer. The additional insulation made a very noticeable difference, and reduced my fire wood usage a good bit too. Insulation just keeps on paying for itself over and over.
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Post by satamax on Nov 21, 2016 3:55:50 GMT -8
If i do the roof with strawbales, with the cork already in there, i should end with R51 us. R9 euro.
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Post by satamax on Dec 2, 2016 3:33:30 GMT -8
Hi everybody.
Well, i have changed wood. Bought some hornbeam which is a smidge too wet for my use. Not nice. But my burn times have changed big time. Still doesn't smoke most of the time. Got about a cord and a quater. And this morning, i went to fetch some oak, which is a smidge drier. Seems better. Got a cord and a quater too. I should be sorted for the winter.
My burn times are more than an hour for sure. But the ember stage takes forever. Yesterday, i left the ember bed around 6, closed the flaps of the damper. I came back late morning, with some embers left. Enough to light it again.
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Post by AlexHarpin on Dec 2, 2016 5:15:11 GMT -8
Same thing here! Coal phase last very long time, surely due to the big amount of wood burnt. That's why i like to burn soft wood or half and half blend of soft and hard wood so less coal left in the fire box.
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Post by satamax on Dec 2, 2016 8:19:49 GMT -8
Good to hear i'm not alone!
Now, i have nearly pure oak in there. Roaring like mad. Two thirds embers!
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Post by matthewwalker on Dec 2, 2016 8:45:24 GMT -8
Oak builds huge coal beds. Those huge coal beds are a really bad phase of the batch box burn, you never see that part on our charts. Try to minimize it if you can. Burn each load completely and if you have coals, rake them towards the primary and get them reduced a bit before you reload. It's one of the reasons I modified the standard batch, as load on top of load in a regular configuration leads to less than good numbers.
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Post by patamos on Dec 2, 2016 9:15:28 GMT -8
Nice 'strawbale storage technique' Max  Those dense (now)inner walls should offer some great flywheel... |
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Post by satamax on Dec 2, 2016 14:26:29 GMT -8
These are hollow brics (optibric) so they are insulative somewhat. They provide a slight flywheel. But not that much. On the opposite side of the workshop from the stove, i go from 14C° to 18/20C° in a few hours. With actual night temps of -10C° may be -17C° for some parts of the night. And 2 to 5C° during the day outside. The real test will come in january and febuary, when there's snow storms, and we don't see any sun for a few days.
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Post by pinhead on Dec 23, 2016 10:59:17 GMT -8
Oak builds huge coal beds. Those huge coal beds are a really bad phase of the batch box burn, you never see that part on our charts. Try to minimize it if you can. Burn each load completely and if you have coals, rake them towards the primary and get them reduced a bit before you reload. It's one of the reasons I modified the standard batch, as load on top of load in a regular configuration leads to less than good numbers. I like to warm the stove up with something like cottonwood which burns REALLY fast and leaves virtually no coal. Then I like to load it up with hedge which burns REALLY hot and for a long time but doesn't seem to leave much of a coal bed. Once the inside of the brick body batch box gets hot, the heat radiating back at the coal bed seems to burn it away fairly quickly. I almost never have to rake coals out of the stove when re-lighting. |
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Post by satamax on Sept 2, 2017 12:03:38 GMT -8
Lit it tonight. There's a cold spell. I live above now. It's warm and toasty in the flat now.
I have a piece which fell from inside the heat riser. Don't realy know how to fix it. Tho, no real bother. There's rockwool all around the clay elements.
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Post by patamos on Sept 4, 2017 8:34:43 GMT -8
Saw this thread light up again.
thought i'd chirp in and mention a bit (that you probably already know) about the roof insulation - eliminating the thermal bridging through the structural trusses/rafters has a big effect.
We built a house in Vancouver Island with 14" high roof trusses and 12" of loose light clay (fir wood chips lightly coated in clay slip) in the cavities. Not the greatest 'official' R-value at R-30ish, but super effective. No temp difference between main floor and 3rd floor walk in loft through very hot summers. Toasty warm in winter...
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Post by rakettimuurari on Nov 19, 2017 1:59:53 GMT -8
Terve Satamax! Hope u are warm still... Your project makes me itchy to build similar sized system. Maybe one day. I miss a large chimney! I got into much tweaking with my recent batch rocket with underair and oven thing + smaller chimney than I expected. Seeing you to be keen proponent and experimenter with cast iron cooking plates, I wanted to share something. I am using a cooking plate on top of my barrel in my sauna's RMH. Plate is cast iron made, from Swedish Högfors wood burning household stove originally. It utilizes about 4cm deep labyrinth in bottom to make hot gas flow to be in contact with it longer. Picture betters 1000 words... koti.ts.fi/yleinen/puuhellan-syyskunnostus/Just googled the thing. In old stoves it is meant to turn this free sitting plate perpendicular to gas stream in order to get max heat on it, or along with the stream when more heat is needed beyond it, elsewhere in the stove. Of course top of the riser is different temp-wise but could give also some improvement for on-top-firebox cooking... |
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