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Air Inlet
Sept 21, 2015 15:29:59 GMT -8
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Post by uruguay on Sept 21, 2015 15:29:59 GMT -8
What about the air inlet? What would happend if you start with a full load but half open the air inlet? It would take more or less 90 minuts the burning? What about the eficient? Modern wood stoves can alredy close the primary air and not the secondary so its burn the gases but yo cant see flames from wood. What happens there? Cheers
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Post by uruguay on Sept 23, 2015 3:59:54 GMT -8
Someone knows?
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Post by peterberg on Sept 23, 2015 5:13:20 GMT -8
The air inlet need to be open in order to keep the double vortex in the riser going. Otherwise, it will be just another polluting wood burner with meager efficiency. I already worked out the minimum values for a clean burn. In fact, in most cases at the start it need more because the draw of the chimney is low at that moment.
I can't help to percieve you ask a lot of questions, most of those are already tried and found not working. If you are interested in this concept, please accept that it is what it is. It's a tight design, when you follow the recommended measurements and sizes it will just work from the start. When you want it to do other things or take another shape, please find out yourself what will work and what won't in your particular circumstances.
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Air Inlet
Sept 24, 2015 12:11:33 GMT -8
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Post by uruguay on Sept 24, 2015 12:11:33 GMT -8
The air inlet need to be open in order to keep the double vortex in the riser going. Otherwise, it will be just another polluting wood burner with meager efficiency. I already worked out the minimum values for a clean burn. In fact, in most cases at the start it need more because the draw of the chimney is low at that moment. I can't help to percieve you ask a lot of questions, most of those are already tried and found not working. If you are interested in this concept, please accept that it is what it is. It's a tight design, when you follow the recommended measurements and sizes it will just work from the start. When you want it to do other things or take another shape, please find out yourself what will work and what won't in your particular circumstances. Peter thanks for answering. I am starting to build a 6in batch and all things i read of you like law. A question about the air inlet is when you put half a load of wood in the batch. As you say it needs to be all open the air inlet and it tooks alredy 45 minuts to burn all. There is too much air? Needs the same cuantity of air half a charge than a full? Thanks. No more questions and lets do it
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Air Inlet
Sept 26, 2015 5:04:36 GMT -8
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Post by uruguay on Sept 26, 2015 5:04:36 GMT -8
Someone?
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Air Inlet
Sept 30, 2015 8:24:31 GMT -8
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Post by uruguay on Sept 30, 2015 8:24:31 GMT -8
Someone? A 5in batch for a 70m2 house?
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adiel
Junior Member
Posts: 119
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Post by adiel on Sept 30, 2015 10:10:50 GMT -8
if the house is insolated good then yes. i wored with 5" batch box and it was very efective.
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Air Inlet
Sept 30, 2015 12:31:50 GMT -8
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Post by uruguay on Sept 30, 2015 12:31:50 GMT -8
if the house is insolated good then yes. i wored with 5" batch box and it was very efective. Yes. I wanted to do the same you made and have the video in youtube. The one is inside a barrel. Only i think the stack temp is really haigh? What about heat transfer to the house? If you can put more videos in youtube about everything they are really great and enjoyable. You have same are privates and i cant see them. Thanks and congratulations
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Air Inlet
Sept 30, 2015 12:57:40 GMT -8
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Post by uruguay on Sept 30, 2015 12:57:40 GMT -8
Sorry. What about half charge and the air intake? Its not to much air?
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Post by mintcake on Oct 2, 2015 9:30:09 GMT -8
Hi, we've got a 5" brick batch-box built with recycled bricks, edge-on (thinnest distance between heat and room). Normally it's supplementary heat only (we have a natural-gas fired central heating, which is off overnight), the stove adds about 5°C to the (brick-built) 25m2 room with a load or 2. Last winter one day we woke to a cold house and what turned out to be a 12+hour power cut, so the stove was our only heat, with outside temperatures about -10°C if I remember correctly. In total we've got about 150 m2 to heat. I fed the batch-box so there was pretty much continuous fire in it. The stove got far hotter than normal (surprise!) and I'm sure we lost heat up the flue, but I'd say the house warmed up to normal temperature on average (thought of course the room with the stove was quite a bit warmer than the rest of the house.)
I expect a metal barrel would have been better in that situation.
As for half charge, my semi-educated guess:
For clean/efficient burning, you want the wood burning at the ends as much as possible. That happens best when the firebox is full(ish) vertically - I guess you could do a half load by having the wood short. Your air flow would want to be normal in this situation, but I'd guess you'd have a shorter burn time.
If you've got the top half of the firebox empty, then it'll be a question of how much wood is burning. You'll probably get /more/ burning, as there's less high-speed air rushing past the flames, pulling them to the riser. In which case you'll want all the air you can to stop it choking.
Also if you're taking too much heat out of your exhaust gasses and/or outside isn't cold enough to compensate, then having excess air becomes the lesser of two evils - You get less fog in the chimney. Fog is /dense/ and wants to go down, so you don't want it forming. I tend to open the inspection door to mix extra room air into the flu while the brickwork of my stove is warming up.
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