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Post by DCish on Feb 4, 2015 18:51:08 GMT -8
For starter this year I collected candle stubs, melted them and drizzled the wax over sawdust, continuously mixing until all the little particles were more or less coated, but not clumping much. A generous pinch sprinkled at the base of some kindling makes for a quick start.
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Post by ronyon on Feb 8, 2015 23:11:06 GMT -8
Maybe I missed it, but how did you bridge the top of the fire box? Also, what mix surrounds the riser?
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Post by pinhead on Feb 9, 2015 6:42:05 GMT -8
The riser is made of clay, ash, and perlite. It's hardened exceptionally well and doesn't seem to be crumbling. The top of the firebox has two heavy angle-irons down the center to support the brick roof.
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Post by pianomark on Feb 9, 2015 15:18:25 GMT -8
The riser is made of clay, ash, and perlite. What were the ratios in the mix? And what method for mixing? Thanks, Mark
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Post by pinhead on Feb 10, 2015 7:10:02 GMT -8
The riser is made of clay, ash, and perlite. What were the ratios in the mix? And what method for mixing? Thanks, Mark I'm not sure the exact ratios, except for 1:1 clay:ash and a lot of perlite. I added the perlite until I could make a ball of the mixture and when squeezed it would "pop" much like this: www.youtube.com/watch?v=3fx45mOFwaMI mixed the clay and ash dry by hand. I then added water until it was a milkshake consistency. After that I added the perlite until it was the right consistency. It was then packed tightly into the form. Packing is extremely important with this stuff. If you just "slop" it into the form, it'll quickly crumble away after you dry it. Packing it tightly forces the clay to stick together, making the entire riser stable.
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Post by pianomark on Feb 10, 2015 11:05:31 GMT -8
Thanks pinhead, exactly what I needed to know.
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Post by grizbach on Feb 11, 2015 2:18:15 GMT -8
Matt, Strange, but I also have been able to run in gas-mode. I haven't changed a thing on my stove, just reduce the primary. Since my secondary is still just a 1.25" tube at the top of my port I don't have good mixing, so it only works maybe 70% of the time.
T
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dvawolk
Full Member
DSR2 125mm open system (actual project)
Posts: 255
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Post by dvawolk on Dec 24, 2015 1:09:36 GMT -8
pinnhead,
do you have your photos from the beginning of the thread somewhere else? They arent available any more on this thread...
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Post by pinhead on Dec 24, 2015 8:12:18 GMT -8
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Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
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Post by Deleted on Dec 24, 2015 8:19:16 GMT -8
Sorry, this content isn't available right now The link you followed may have expired, or the page may only be visible to an audience you're not in.
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Post by pinhead on Dec 24, 2015 8:44:13 GMT -8
Sorry, this content isn't available right now The link you followed may have expired, or the page may only be visible to an audience you're not in. Try now!
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dvawolk
Full Member
DSR2 125mm open system (actual project)
Posts: 255
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Post by dvawolk on Dec 24, 2015 9:32:40 GMT -8
Thank you, sir! Much easier to undetstand now! Have a nice end of the year!
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Post by esbjornaneer on Mar 4, 2016 1:40:25 GMT -8
Looks like a great build, and thanks for the link to the S-channel. How is it working out having the heat riser to the side of the batchbox? I thought they had to be at the end of the batchbox (I think Peter got to that in his experiments)? Was it to the side in your previous build too?
What would you think about a build where the heat riser was moved to be by the door with the primary air inlet at the far end (from the door) in the back wall of the firebox?
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Post by pinhead on Mar 5, 2016 15:41:04 GMT -8
Looks like a great build, and thanks for the link to the S-channel. How is it working out having the heat riser to the side of the batchbox? I thought they had to be at the end of the batchbox (I think Peter got to that in his experiments)? Was it to the side in your previous build too? My first build was a "by the book" 6" batch box. Theoretically, in order for the batch box to work well, it needs "cross-flow" which means the air streams over the fuel. The further forward you move the heat riser, the less efficient it will likely be. In my stove, the port/throat of the stove is only two inches from the rear wall, I don't believe this negates the cross-flow properties much. What would you think about a build where the heat riser was moved to be by the door with the primary air inlet at the far end (from the door) in the back wall of the firebox? The position of the port in relation to the primary air is what matters. As mentioned, cross-flow is important. If the primary air enters the rear of the stove, the port/riser should be on the opposite end. There is one thing to note that is extremely important, however, when placing the riser in relation to the port; the streaming air has momentum and as such, if the riser isn't shifted slightly rearward relative to the port, the airflow will create a helical pattern in the riser which is less effective than the double-vortex of the classic batch box. It's kind of neat to watch, but smoky and inefficient.
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Post by esbjornaneer on Mar 10, 2016 2:21:29 GMT -8
There is one thing to note that is extremely important, however, when placing the riser in relation to the port; the streaming air has momentum and as such, if the riser isn't shifted slightly rearward relative to the port, the airflow will create a helical pattern in the riser which is less effective than the double-vortex of the classic batch box. It's kind of neat to watch, but smoky and inefficient. Just to make sure I got this right. Are you saying that the port should be longer/deeper (in the flow direction) if the riser is placed on the side of the batch box than if the riser is placed at the short side of the box? Double fire brick, rather than single, to get the ram's horns pattern. Part of the reason for asking my original qiestion is that it would be easier to light a fire near the heat riser if it is closer to the door than the original Peterberg layout.
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