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Post by Donkey on Jan 1, 2015 12:36:00 GMT -8
geri, Don't use cob to protect things from burning!! Use AIR GAPS so that heat can get away. Heat can and WILL travel through cob and even insulation materials and can start fires! Air gaps are crucial for safety in this regard.
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geri
New Member
Posts: 8
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Post by geri on Jan 2, 2015 8:15:09 GMT -8
Thank you Donkey,
i built a house out of used tires. my walls at this point are exposed tires. They will be covered with dirt basically, like adobe walls. the plan is to build the rocket stove where it will be adjacent to the wall. there will be at least 4 inches of mud in between the wall and the pipe going up the roof. so do i need to leave an air gap between the mud wall and the pipe? Not sure i am understanding?
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Post by patamos on Jan 2, 2015 10:54:04 GMT -8
Seeing as i chimed in earlier, i feel obliged to help clarify.
Wrapping an inch or so of cob around a flue pipe will reduce its ability to quickly radiate heat into the surrounding space. The cob will take up some of the heat via conduction and release it via radiation, but more slowly. This is the context in which i suggested cobbing your flue pipe gradually. Using a thin, partial wrapping of cob as a thermal buffer, thereby tweaking the amount of exposed metal in the system... However, if that cob is connected to more cobb (or dense mass) and that is connected to a wall... the wall will heat up via conduction. I'm not sure what the flashpoint of tires is, but heating them up to any degree does not seem like a good idea.
If you have an earthship wall behind the stove, then laying up an inch or more (at it's thinnest) of browncoat plaster on the wall would be a good idea. And then keeping the flue pipe at least 6" away from that.
If you are going for the aesthetic of having a flue pipe morphing into the wall, then carefully installing a buffer layer of clay perlite between the pipe and wall could work. But, as Donkey suggests, ensuring an air gap - perhaps with metal sheeting and a hollow space behind it... is always a good idea.
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geri
New Member
Posts: 8
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Post by geri on Jan 2, 2015 19:00:37 GMT -8
wow, glad i asked. thank you. that can be arranged. your suggestions are greatly appreciated.
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Post by photoman290 on Jan 3, 2015 9:31:28 GMT -8
the thing to remember is any insulation only slows down the heat transfer hence the need to be able to dissipate the heat via a air gap. doesn't need a great deal, air is the best insulator you can get anyway. the trick is to be able to move the hot air away from the heat source so it can be replaced by cooler air.
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Post by shilo on Feb 9, 2015 12:13:13 GMT -8
it's work like a charm. thank you all!
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Post by peterberg on Feb 9, 2015 14:05:53 GMT -8
Pictures please. Pretty Please?
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Post by wiscojames on Feb 9, 2015 16:26:06 GMT -8
I second the request for photos Shilo. I have enjoyed the photos of your previous work.
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Post by shilo on Feb 10, 2015 22:59:45 GMT -8
there is no plaster yet. just a pile of gray blocks and wet mad
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Post by wiscojames on Feb 11, 2015 4:13:41 GMT -8
To most people that wouldn't be interesting. But we are not most people...
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Post by shilo on Feb 11, 2015 7:28:33 GMT -8
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Post by shilo on Feb 16, 2015 3:31:29 GMT -8
Pictures please. Pretty Please? ...
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Post by Daryl on Feb 16, 2015 5:54:36 GMT -8
Congrats on your build. Is this the one that is also heating the second or first floor? Sorry, I can't remember.
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Post by shilo on Feb 16, 2015 6:51:28 GMT -8
yes. 3 rooms at 2 floors
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Post by Daryl on Feb 16, 2015 6:59:04 GMT -8
Is there an additional bench on the second/first floor? Do you have a picture?
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