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Post by ericvw on Jun 8, 2014 8:13:35 GMT -8
Hello to all. I've been pouring over these forums for 2 months now and I must say what a wealth of knowledge and experience! I finally snagged some firebricks from local big box home improvement store and set out w/ my own experimental batch box. Followed the Peterberg dimensions for a 6 incher. No p channel yet, lacking about 10" on riser height, but, Whoa! I'm sold! I have a favor to ask, tho- after reading so much, I can't find the set of posts that had a batch box w/ a single masonry bell built directly around the core. I believe the core was wrapped in white insulation blanket. Can anyone refer me to those posts and pics? That's the set up I'd like to use in our home. Thanks for the opportunity to join this forum, look forward to sharing my heater soon. Eric in SW Virginia
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Post by satamax on Jun 8, 2014 9:59:05 GMT -8
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Post by ericvw on Jun 8, 2014 10:48:52 GMT -8
Thanks for replying Satamax. Not quite, tho I have seen the caddy corner heater. No, it was rectangular and stood off the wall some. Perhaps the one w/ the door frame and bracing that was installed prior to setting core, I think. Wish I had bookmarked it!!! On another front, I made a test batch like matthewwalker's mix of fire clay/perlite/ + a smidge of Portland, sand. Not too bad, a little brittle... Need to add some furnace cement as he suggests, got some left over from woodstove. But as I approach making a mould to cast a batch core, I believe I'll go with a castable.... hope that post reappears! thanks again Eric
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Post by ericvw on Jun 10, 2014 14:21:25 GMT -8
Can anyone verify the use of Kaolite 30 for use in batch box and riser? thanks,
Eric
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Post by ericvw on Jun 11, 2014 19:26:11 GMT -8
It was Morticcio's stove! Single bell built over cast batch box. Found the pics on photobucket. Was that a 1" superwool blanket" Approximate ordered length? I'm buying blanket, castable(Kol 30, #10 mesh, is this ok for casting?), a 4x8 sheet of 2" rigid foam insulation sheet for mould construction. Any suggestions, tips? Thank u for you responses in advance, Eric VW
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Jun 12, 2014 4:29:14 GMT -8
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Post by ericvw on Jun 12, 2014 13:47:31 GMT -8
Thanks Karl! I was contacted by the not so local refractory supplier about flowing castable- Greenlite 24. I noticed in some pics from Peterberg that his mould looked like it was filled with a pretty wet mix. Was that a "flowing" mix? The supplier suggested using the product for casting my own tubes for heat riser, since they don't stock pre-formed ones. Any experience with this? Also, since I plan on building a heater in close approximation to Morticcio's, should the cap on top of bell be made of a dense refractory? I'd like to experiment, but winter will b here before we all know it, so was looking to get something going soon, to have time for dialing in... in the mean time, I'll be reading posts and burning my bricked up batch in the back yard, building my casting mould, and bringing the questions! thanks again for the link, EVW
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morticcio
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"The problem with internet quotes is that you can't always depend on their accuracy" - Aristotle
Posts: 371
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Post by morticcio on Jun 14, 2014 13:45:47 GMT -8
Hi Eric Insulation: It was 25mm (1") Superwool HT. I got a 7 metre roll and used about 4 metres of it. Not quite enough for 2 stoves Cap: The part above the riser takes the brunt of the heat from the stove - mine is one piece and has hairline cracks in it so I need to use 2 or 3 pieces next time to allow for expansion. The same grade refractory as the main stove/riser isn't required but sometimes it is easier to use the same to save buying two types. I have seen one stove with the cap as a block and beam using fire bricks and steel T beams wrapped in ceramic paper.
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Post by ericvw on Jun 15, 2014 7:21:58 GMT -8
Great info, thanks so much Morticcio! Built one half of core mould last nite, looking to get other half and riser mould done today. Like many others here, I need to figure out posting pics! I have to get a little more savvy on these things. Off to the backyard to cut foam! Thanks again for the help. Eric VW
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Post by ericvw on Jun 16, 2014 18:42:18 GMT -8
First half cast! Thanks to all for the great pics and info. Thanks to Peter Van den Berg for his tireless efforts. And happy late Father's Day to all u dads! 2nd have cast poured tonite, didn't have time to mix last nite. Say, anyone know after 24 hr setting time how soon you should slowly fire them to cured? Very much appreciate all responses, glad to be part of this movement. EricVW Attachment Deleted
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Post by ericvw on Jun 16, 2014 18:48:18 GMT -8
BTW, that's kast-o-lite 30. Anyone have experience w/ Greenlite 22? It's considered "flowing" castable. I suspect that means "wet." Like those pics of peter's batchbox moulds- that mix looks like brown concrete! Can anyone please direct me to what he may have used?! Thanks, EricVW
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Post by ericvw on Jun 16, 2014 18:51:58 GMT -8
Darn! I forgot to say why there's a gap where the p channel runs horizontal. The top portion of my mold grew beyond 1 3/16ths inch so I had to recess a spacer so channel wouldn't be taller in vertical run because of increased thickness above fire box. Make sense? EricVW
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Post by peterberg on Jun 17, 2014 8:16:26 GMT -8
The casting looks alright, it should work like that. Maybe the back sweep in de riser could be hollow and a bit smaller but that's all I can think of. Depending on weather, temperature and humidity up to 5 days to cure at ambient temperature. The thing could be fired outside with a riser of some sort added. First run is always very surprising once the thing dries out.
My molds were filled with an earth dry mix of castable refractory. This will flow out like porridge when the vibrating table is started. I don't have any experience with self flowing mixes, so can't advise on that.
The P-channel in a recess makes sense. Apart from keeping the vertical length correct it will recieve more heat from the surrounding concrete which is a good thing. And at a more practical topic, the front opening would be easier to integrate in the door setup I'd expect.
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morticcio
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"The problem with internet quotes is that you can't always depend on their accuracy" - Aristotle
Posts: 371
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Post by morticcio on Jun 17, 2014 13:50:00 GMT -8
Eric, Looks good so far - one comment - is the rear of the riser the same thickness as the rest of the casting? Your photo is a bit small and when I zoom in the resolution doesn't show it very clearly.
Use Photobucket for your pictures. It will include the hyperlinks for thumbnails and originals and will even copy them to your clipboard automatically when you click on them. You can then paste these into the thread on the forum. Simples
Some photos of the mould would be great too.
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Post by ericvw on Jun 17, 2014 15:10:49 GMT -8
Much obliged for the responses, Gentleman. Peter, I will try flowable for grins and giggles, will report outcome. I'm encouraged by my recessing of the p channel, as I said the mould got away from me! Morticcio, there are differences in thickness at more than one point.... calling this "mark 2" after having burned a few dozen times in the firebrick "mark 1." Definitely a learning curve. The phone pic I have of the mould is missing the infill pieces which create the feet and outside shape of riser, but I do need to spend more time on next rendition! Thanks again for the sage advise, fellas. EricVW
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